joey_martin Posted December 30, 2021 Share Posted December 30, 2021 Anyone set up a ZIP Wall yet? I am interested in seeing how others have set the wall layers up for this system to work correctly, especially when using brick veneer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joey_martin Posted December 30, 2021 Author Share Posted December 30, 2021 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwdozier Posted December 30, 2021 Share Posted December 30, 2021 I think the ZIP system panels replace the OSB, both of which are 7/16" thick. I have used ZIP panels on homes but have not set it up in Chief. ZIP System® Wall Sheathing | Huber Engineered Woods (huberwood.com) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joey_martin Posted December 30, 2021 Author Share Posted December 30, 2021 Yes, but when I take a section through the wall, I still want the layers and different fills to be present so that I can detail it better. I wondered if others were simply putting a 1" or 1.5" substitute in there, or leaving the layers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlesVolz Posted December 30, 2021 Share Posted December 30, 2021 I think you guys are talking two different things. A ZIP panel replaces the sheathing and the house wrap and is 7/16" thick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwdozier Posted December 30, 2021 Share Posted December 30, 2021 1 hour ago, CharlesVolz said: A ZIP panel replaces the sheathing and the house wrap and is 7/16" thick. The ZIP panel itself is 7/16" thick and eliminates the need for building/house wrap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
javatom Posted December 30, 2021 Share Posted December 30, 2021 I think he is talking about the zip wall panels that have an inch of insulation panel on the inside. Be careful specifying these. Some areas will not let it count toward the brace wall panels because of the insulation that sits between the sheathing and the wall framing. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joey_martin Posted December 30, 2021 Author Share Posted December 30, 2021 I am taking about the R-6 Insulated Panels. In zone 5 we can do R-19 (2x6) or R-13+5 (2x4). It's the R-5 part that I am interested in. 90% we use 2x6 exterior walls and it's not a problem, one builder insists on using 2x4 exterior walls and the new building commissioner is making him submit plans and get permits, where in the past, he did whatever the hell he wanted to. https://www.huberwood.com/zip-system/insulated-r-sheathing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rlackore Posted January 3, 2022 Share Posted January 3, 2022 On 12/30/2021 at 1:30 PM, javatom said: I think he is talking about the zip wall panels that have an inch of insulation panel on the inside. Be careful specifying these. Some areas will not let it count toward the brace wall panels because of the insulation that sits between the sheathing and the wall framing. I've been able to use them for wall bracing using the appropriate ESR report: ESR-3373. The big disadvantage is that wall panel lengths must be a minimum of 48", and you need the code official to sign-off if you design the panels to resist both uplift and shear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joey_martin Posted January 3, 2022 Author Share Posted January 3, 2022 3 hours ago, rlackore said: need the code official to sign-off if you design the panels to resist both uplift and shear. No lie....the last time I talked with our new local "code official" about shear and uplift...this was for a pavilion I designed for the city....her eyes glazed over as she was trying to not look like she had zero clue what I was talking about. P.S....she's a friend of the mayor 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gawdzira Posted January 3, 2022 Share Posted January 3, 2022 If you are adding the 1/16" for the Zip surface, you would want to reduce that from the 7/16" sheathing layer. The actual material is a pretty true 7/16" unless you use the actual 1/2" sheathing. I am using it in the field on most projects. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneDavis Posted January 4, 2022 Share Posted January 4, 2022 It's Zip-R that you are describing, Joey. Huber's OSB with foamboard glued on and then the air/water membrane on the foam. And it is offered with different foam thicknesses. I do it with one layer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robdyck Posted January 4, 2022 Share Posted January 4, 2022 I haven't used this product but if I were I'd set it up as a single layer in the wall spec. and I'd show it as a single layer in cross sections, and both layers in details. And then I'd probably change my mind after finding a reason to show it as 2 layers, and then I'd change my mind again and go back to a single layer. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridge_Runner Posted January 4, 2022 Share Posted January 4, 2022 6 hours ago, robdyck said: And then I'd probably change my mind after finding a reason to show it as 2 layers, and then I'd change my mind again and go back to a single layer. That's my usual work flow.! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe_Carrick Posted January 4, 2022 Share Posted January 4, 2022 One way of dealing with the detail is to use a separate wall type with 2 layers for the R-Zip that you use to draw the wall in the Detail. I regularly use wall types in my details to get all the layers automatically. Then I just need to add the other elements. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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