CharlesVolz

Howdy J, I make sure the casing's width and reveal are close to what I want. Then I slam the door against the sidewall and use may arrow key to back away 1", which is may arrow key setting via grid snaps. Best Wishes! Charles

Ditto! And: The learning curve is longer and harder than people think when the target is a professional/thorough set of construction documents. Nobody knows what they don't know. And until you become proficient and organized in design AND Chief Architect, “A man builder who is his own lawyer designer has a fool for a client.” (Ask me how I know this!)

From my notes without warranty: Differences between the Reverse Plan tool and the Edit Area tool: The Reverse Plan tool: 1. does not reverse (flip) terrain objects (good for flipping building on a lot). 2. will reverse (flip) elevation cameras while Edit Area tool will not. The Edit Area tool: 1. Gives you more control over what gets reversed (flipped). 2. A few objects, notably CAD points, are not affected by the Edit Area Tools. 3. Camera and cross-section/elevation symbols are included in the selection and can be moved with it. While cameras can also be rotated as well as copied, cross section/elevations cannot. Tip1: Copy any item(s) that you want to keep to your clipboard. Then use Edit> Paste> Paste Hold Position to paste the item(s) back to the same place. Make sure you are on the desired floor level when you paste them back into the plan. Tip2: Paste using WinKey+V (not Ctrl+V), especially helpful when trying to enter multiple data (ceiling hts, roof baseline hts, etc.) into a CA DBX and so you do not lose your data on the clipboard due to another action. (To paste previously copied text in Windows, press Windows Key + V to open your clipboard history, then click on the desired item to paste it. You may need to click "Turn on" the first time you use this feature. It stores up to 25 entries (text, HTML, images) and supports pinning.) Best, Charles

Howdy, Suggestions: Update/create your signature on this forum and include the CA version that you are using. Try to open using File> Templates> New Plan From Template... 3. Make sure you are looking at the correct location when viewing your "template folder". Best! Charles

That is the same pitch on both roof planes. Follow the horizontal lines of the siding from eaves to eaves.

My thoughts: A 4' diameter spiral staircase is not workable. I would suggest 5' min and 6' preferred. If you really do not have any more space to create a decent spiral staircase, I would use ship stairs. Best, Charles

Add a break so the two roof planes over the longer walls can make a ridge. Your plan before adding breaks: After I added breaks and joined opposite planes to make the ridge: Temp 5.mp4 I hope this helps. Best, Charles

Here is what I use. ANSI Z765-2021 - SQUARE FOOTAGE.pdf

Hard drive space is cheap. Nothing says that you have to keep every old version. That is my preferred approach. But I understand it may not be everyone's preference. Best, Charles

I would suggest not renaming the .plan and the .layout files as a routine. This requires relinking, as you mentioned. That system is more error-prone the more plans you have linked to the layout file and the more users involved. Better to save your versions by saving the project using "File> Backup Entire Plan ..." while in layout, saving it as a zip file and naming those zip files in a meaningful archival way. This also keeps all your materials and referenced files together which is helpful if you are not using Project Management. [Edit: Sorry Bob! We replied together...] Best, Charles

Howdy Otis! CA has always been this way as long as I can remember. The problems that are created (by making all of the wall layers "main layers") are more obvious with the thicker wall types. But think about it: in real life, you want the main layers (the structural layers) to be connected to each other. Then you would add the insulation, finishes, or whatever, that's non-structural. Feel free to call, text or email me if I can help further. Best, Charles

Look at your wall layers. They are all "main layers". Search the help file as needed.

Howdy Scott, Hard to help without a plan file, but here are some notes: The red check mark indicates the default value is selected in the adjacent box. The ceiling elevation defaults are in Room Specification> Structure tab. The floor and ceiling elevations of a room are affected by those of the room(s) directly below and above. Common solutions are to delete the foundation and/or align the walls of the room with those directly above and below. This is an area of CA where I think users should seek a little training; along with roofs, foundations, and default sets. It helped me back in the day. Edited July 2 by CharlesVolz

I add crosshairs that are centered on my drawing area on Sheet 0 so they can be used for all the sheets. I add more as needed.

Howdy Gene, Here is what I do. From my notes (no guarantees): Exporting DWG Files (Usually to Engineers): 1. In Plan, create and use the default set named “Floor Plan Defaultset - FOR DWG EXPORTS”, or something similar. a. Display layers that the engineer needs, like main wall layers only, roof planes, doors, windows, etc. b. Do not display layers that the engineer does not need. These are unnecessary items or items that will junk up a 2D ACAD plan like electrical, cabinets, landscaping (terrain item, roads, plants, etc.), architectural blocks, cars (vehicles), furniture (interior and exterior), fixtures (interior and exterior), dimensions, revision clouds, north arrows, etc. c. Turn off the dimensions - whoever's using it will use ACAD dims. 2. Export each floor level - Select File>Export>Export Current View (DWG, DXF)... and continue to the DBX choices below. 3. Export all floor levels - Select File>Export>Export All Floors (DWG, DXF)... and continue to the DBX choices below. 4. DBX Choices. In the Export Drawing dialog box, you have important choices: a. Compatible Version. i. Make sure you select a version that the architect can import, i.e., what version/flavor of AutoDesk software they are using. You can normally just select an older version to be safe. b. Layer Options. i. Select the Layer Set you've tweaked to display what you want to export (this was step 1). ii. DO NOT select Split Wall Assemblies Into Layers. This option creates an unholy mess for the CAD operator. iii. Select Export Only Displayed Layers. c. Other Options. i. Scaling Unit should be inches for sharing with an architect. ii. Select Create Associative Dimensions. iii. DO NOT select Export Pattern Lines. This is another unholy mess. iv. DO NOT select Export Filled Areas. Yet another mess. v. Select Export AutoCAD Index Colors. vi. Click on Export, etc. Notes: 1. Always send them a PDF of the plan (layout) so they can understand the design. 2. You can ask the engineers what layer sets they want and what AutoCAD version they use or need compatibility with. 3. You can open the DWG file in Chief Architect to check it, turn off layers and re-save. Best, Charles

Howdy Abe, From my notes (no guarantees): Exterior Wall Vertical Lines in Vector View: Solutions: 1. Check your walls’ vertical alignments. 2. Check Wall Specification> Structure Tab> Default Wall Heights are both 3. Make sure all the walls are the same Wall Type, or at least have the same width for all materials outside the main layer (if aligned via the main layer). 4. Open your plan materials dialog and merge the ones with the same names.

Howdy All! Need help with a Chief Architect project, stuck on a design issue, or looking for one-on-one training? I'd be happy to help. I am available to help with your Chief Architect design projects and/or training needs. I also welcome referrals from designers and builders and offer a 10% referral fee. Feel free to email me or call/text me at 210 744-7489. About Me: I am a creative designer and highly proficient in using Chief Architect 3D Design software. I have acquired unique experiences and perspectives from my collection of work as a designer and builder for over 30 years. I have degrees in structural engineering (BS Rice University) and architectural engineering (MS University of Texas at Austin) and have planned, designed, developed, and built various diverse projects. I have worked with homeowners, builders, designers and architects from all over the U.S., Canada, New Zealand and England. Design & Training Services: I provide money-saving professional design services and personalized Chief Architect and Home Designer training for beginners to intermediate users. Services include: Home design from concept through construction documents Plan reviews and design improvements Live online design assistance One-on-one Chief Architect and Home Designer training Design problem-solving and workflow optimization Consultation for homeowners, builders, designers and architects I am available to help you design your home from concept to construction drawings, improve your existing home design, learn Chief Architect, and/or solve difficult design problems. I utilize the latest technology and software (like Zoom Meeting, Fathom Notes, OBS Studio and Snagit) to work with customers live online and to record "how-to" videos for builders, designers, and DIYers. Whether you need a home designer or just a few hours of expert assistance, I'd be happy to help. Thank you in advance for your consideration. I look forward to working with you! Best wishes, Charles

Exactly. I never met a framer that did it my way. Always their way. But always good.

If you selected roof trusses, they will build between the ceiling plane and the roof plane. The elevation of the ceiling planes and roof planes determines the roof structure's depth.

Howdy Damon, If you trying to show that exterior wall strip below the roof, use ceiling planes.

From my notes (no guarantees); Screened Porches: 1. Use Railing: Rail Style: Open, Post to Beam, Include Top & Bottom Rail; Rails: Top, Middle & Bottom. Insert Doors (CA will insert doorways, but change that to hinged door). For the screen material, use a molding polyline with a standard rectangular profile like CA-001 and make it the desired height and 1/16" thick with the material set to glass block or lattice (set to 1"x1"x1/16" >best) material which look better in 3D than the screen material. In X9+ you can combine Panels and Rails. Just make a simple Panel with Screen Material. Set the width & depth of the Beam in the “Rails” DBX (the Beam is one of the "Rails"). For more detailed work, use solids, p-solids, cabinets, moldings, slabs, framing material, etc. 2. Great videos by Steve Nestor (3). https://youtu.be/5QyskUt8UBQ, https://youtu.be/AB3Hjm1ZGwM, & https://youtu.be/VDNXmV056fo Lattice 3D (Creating in X18): 1. CTalk (Joe_Carrick): Use a 3D Molding. Here's one I did (2"x1/2" with 3" square holes. Rows set at 45 degrees. The 3D Molding I used was a cross of (2) 2"x5"x1/2" solids for 2" square holes use (2) 2"x4"x1/2" solids. By applying it to a wall with a 2" gap layer below, it will be pretty cool. It can also be used in a railing with top & bottom rails. FWIW, 3D Profiles using 3D Molding Symbols can result in a lot more surfaces and slow down the display. Each little cross in the Lattice has 12 surfaces so a 10'x30' wall with that 3D Profile will have over 20,000 surfaces. 2. CTalk (Steve_Nyhof): So this is a new way of adding lattice under a deck - lattice wall that makes a room - room floor is gravel - Air gap wall. When I run into it I will need to be mindful if things slow down - but typically there is not much lattice. Raise and lower the deck - I like this! 3. CTalk (Renerabbitt): Here is a method for 50 surfaces: YouTube Video

Sorry Michael! All of us dog-lovers feel for you. Love this! Or in my case, she!

Thanks Rene! Pls post your PayPal Pay Me link...