rlackore

Members
  • Posts

    3023
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

536 Excellent

5 Followers

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Madison, Wisconsin

Recent Profile Visitors

3964 profile views
  1. rlackore

    DOOR GAP

    What you are seeing is the flooring from the interior room. Garage doors don't have a threshold.
  2. A lot depends on what you're trying to achieve. Is the ceiling flat or vaulted? What's the your style and aesthetic? My advice is to size the false beams as if they were real. This should give you a good starting point for the width and depth. Then play around until you get something that looks "right." To quote Marianne Cusato from her book Get Your House Right: "If you want an authentic design, remember the structural capacities of traditional materials, even when you're using hidden structural elements to support them." "You can avoid many mistakes by remembering the practical reasons behind traditional designs and staying true to your materials."
  3. I'm certain that you can use R. Dyck's solution with a custom macro. I'm not smart enough to provide a macro.
  4. I don't think so - maybe a macro can be used, there are smarter people that may provide a more definitive answer. I use Width and Height columns (which can be formatted for whatever number type you want) instead of a Size column:
  5. IF you're designing in the VILLAGE of East Aurora (the Township may be different), Google search for their zoning code, then it's fairly easy to find: This is a very typical case in zoning laws within the United States, whether the AHJ is a county or municipality.
  6. Rene is referencing an ASCE definition, but maybe it's not everything you need to consider. The code language you've quoted sounds like a Zoning bylaw, and the AHJ may have additional requirements, such as where/how to measure average grade. Ask the client for the code reference; it's a good idea to refer directly to the AHJ codes and bylaws for the area in which you're designing.
  7. Give them the FF elevs you want, then ask them to modify the plan. I'm sure they can get it done. Obviously, it will probably cost money, but maybe that can be offset by the savings in trucked fill.
  8. Yes, the highlighted areas are the swales. My mention that the engineer provided a 2' swale was technically incorrect - I should have said that the engineer provided 2' from the FF to the bottom of the swale. Your revised plan has only 1' from the FF elevation to the bottom of the swale. Your driveway won't need retaining walls if you follow the engineer's grading plan, which requires fill. Lowering the building pad by a couple feet may help you balance the cut/fill calculations (less fill at the driveway and front yard, more cut at the hillside). But, the engineer must have a reason for their design; have you called the engineer?
  9. Your contours are problematic, specifically the 2437 and 2438 near the plan-NW corner of the residence. Make sure the new 2438 is connected at both ends to the existing 2438. Keep in mind that the engineer is providing a 2' deep swale, and he probably did it for a good reason, so I would strive to provide the same when you revise the grading. Also, your revised driveway is going to require some tall retaining walls along both edges, something the engineer's plan avoids by using a bunch of fill. So, pick your poison: an elevated drive, or a canyon drive.
  10. There are linear strip drains in the Chief core catalogs. Just place one into your model. If you don't like the 2D appearance, then modify the CAD block. If you don't like the 3D appearance, search for an alternative on the web, or create your own.
  11. Here's what I've modeled. Sorry, no wheely thing. FDC.calibz
  12. Here's the Zehnder Q-Series. Thanks Alan. Zehnder ComfoAir Q-Series.calibz