GeneDavis

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Everything posted by GeneDavis

  1. Now is a good time to learn to make new layers for your specific needs in controlling visibility of objects. Click on "New" and type in your new layer's name.
  2. Go for it! Get busy with Chief's 3D and create the glass panel with its two base fittings, including light sources, and one top clip. Save as millwork and use as deck railing.
  3. I think @ValleyGuy has the right approach, and it models the top cap and rail, with 1.5" square baluster butted to cap at top and bevel cut at bottom, seen in almost all those decks built back when this was the fashion. Plus, if you are a newbie with Chief and interested in learning new things, you get to create a molding (the 2x cap and top rail) and a solid (the baluster) you save as a millwork item.
  4. Are you looking to model the arrangement exactly as the photo depicts, with the beams atop the columns having a width narrower than the width/depth of the jacketed columns?
  5. In which panel beginning with 1 at bottom and 8 at top do you want window lites? The garage door symbols in the library are set to stretch up to a limit above which the panels repeat. You will need to make your own door symbol, which takes a few minutes.
  6. Looks like it's where you want it. No? Examine the joint in a section view, measure how you would like to relocate your ceiling plane. Without a plan to examine, it's unclear whether your ceilings are roof bottom layers, or ceiling plans you drew. Ceiling planes are readily relocated with the x-y-z move tool.
  7. Why not just model the whole thing as a 3D solid, explode it so that each face can be separately textured, and then use the p'line you began with for making the 3D moldings to mock up the outside corner and inside beads? Modeling it with walls seems more tedious. You have the two-story-plus end wall that is shaped, two upper walls for the chimney, two lower walls for the fireplace, thus five walls to draw. Then there are wall connections to deal with, plus whatever happens above the roof.
  8. @winterdd, does "clean it up" mean finish it for them including con docs? Is this a one-off custom or is it to be a stock build for them. Are you in it for con docs also?
  9. Roof planes or solids, and good luck with all the vinyl corner bead and J-stop.
  10. @basketballman, are you willing to share how you do the iso plumbing riser graphic you show in your sample plan? Looks generic to me. Is it, or is it plan-specific?
  11. The user must not understand how to use SPVs, and works from a template in which there are none. Ask them.
  12. Here is another take on it, from a guy whose only biz is doing as-builts.
  13. Might as well just take Chief on a laptop and go around with a laser tape. Plus of course some other tools. This video has a lot of good info from those that do a whole lot of this. I don't think there is a magic bullet app that automates this process, if real-life con docs for remodeling is the need.
  14. @Renerabbitthow bout showing us all how you did it, and it needs to have the under-box tube frame, plus the look of sinks that are integrally cast with the countertop or maybe @scottharriscan do a video or both of you do vids "master class for cabinets"
  15. Your terminology is confusing, but I think that by "type" of unit, you mean "label." Only units that are so designated in their spec dialog are included in schedules, and when included, get an auto-generated label (W01, W02, etc.) when a schedule is generated. Stacked units, in plan view, have their labels atop each other and you only see one, the lower unit, unless you have drag-moved the stacked unit's label away, or specified its offset such that it is separated enough to see, in the spec dialog. See the attached. Is this what you are after? This same topic came up in the last week or so.
  16. Those legs and struts look like about 1" square in profile. Try creating a 1 x 1 post saved to your user library as millwork and then selecting it as legs for your base cabinet. Set the toekick height at something like 16". Then use slabs and solids to do the strut surround at the base, and up under the cab. The slab is your bottom shelf. Doing the button feet below the metal frame legs and struts takes more creativity. Make another post leg as a solid, do it at 1 x 1 and make it 15 1/2" tall. Make a 1/2" dia. round button 1/2" tall solid placed centered under the square leg, tight to its bottom, then join the two as one solid. Convert to a symbol and add a stretch plane maybe 8" up from bottom. Now use your symbol as your cabinet legs. The attached pic shows a start. To add the strut array near the floor, and under the cabinet, use solids or slabs. Make the shelf using a slab. If your legs and struts don't seem to look right, adjust size up or down. For the legs, you'll need to start over, since you cannot edit the symbol's profile. That thick cast top with the integral sinks will be a challenge. You might try modifying an undermount sink symbol's bounding box so it places the sink with its top surface (the surround flange) co-planar with the countertop, and then make the material for the two, c'top and sink, the same.
  17. Chief can do only one terrain in a plan. Do two plans one with current topo one with new.
  18. Shame there's no setting in framing defaults. There oughta be, and leave the user the option to do it at the wall if wanted.
  19. Please let us know what you work with by completing a signature in your user profile, that includes your Chief version, other relevant software, and the hardware upon which you run it. Then tell us what you mean by post frame and it is best to include both your plan files and images of what you are after. Chief won't autoframe a timberframe structure, if you want that kind of "streamlining," but you can model structure in 3D with the available tools, as I am sure you know.
  20. Sounds like panelized, not modular. Since you're editing all those framing elevations to show blocking (and more), it's just a click and drag to get the plate-thru-door thing. Chief will autoframe it if you do the door-raise-and-shorten thing, but that has its downsides. Editing the plate is fast and easy. But hey, if you think Chief should have an option in autoframe for this, make the suggestion.
  21. I gotta ask @plannedRITE. What's the point of this? If it's for material list accuracy, don't the extra cut lengths added by pro users to cover culls and the full-plate under doors cover this? Sure, we frame the walls this way and then cut after, but why exactly show this in elevations? A good framer puts in blocking for cabinets, fixtures like towel and toilet paper holders, and more places. Are you detailing this all out in your framing details, so the material list gets counts for blocking?
  22. Look again at the pic in Eric's post. It shows the reporting as "Mixed," meaning it is giving unit counts for framing reporting in specific lengths, and footage for the others. It is showing in the table, for a line item reported as in feet ("ft"), and with the unit price per foot shown, the line reports total cost or ft x $ = $$. Sounds like you want to run the material list in linear length format, not one of the other three choices.