GeneDavis

You have an issue placing switches in your electrical plan, but you wrote the topic of this thread "Draftsman for Knapp Builders." Entirely wrong context. Try retitleing the thread something like "How to change switch default for placing new switches in electrical plan."

@glennw Thanks! The wrapped porch and its vaulted-ceiling "rooms" are all same ceiling height now with common-height beams.

@glennwI set things so that a deleted attic wall would not regenerate and now can move the window, but something is making its cutout all squirrelly. The file is attached. And while you are looking, there is something else I just noticed I cannot solve. The entry portico is bounded by three railing walls and the front one, the gabled end wall, has its top rail (beam) raised and I cannot figure how to lower it. Here I show the moved window with its cutout problem, and the gable end beam that sits high. I did not realize it when I made the truss from solids that sits atop the beam, and when I can get the beam where it belongs, will have to remake the timber array.

@glennwI set things so that a deleted attic wall would not regenerate and now can move the window, but something is making its cutout all squirrelly. The file is attached. And while you are looking, there is something else I just noticed I cannot solve. The entry portico is bounded by three railing walls and the front one, the gabled end wall, has its top rail (beam) raised and I cannot figure how to lower it. Here I show the moved window with its cutout problem, and the gable end beam that sits high. I did not realize it when I made the truss from solids that sits atop the beam, and when I can get the beam where it belongs, will have to remake the timber array. Barndo.zip

There is an attic wall behind it that's in the way. Look as the pic looking into the vaulted portico and you see the railing wall that is under it.

I tried my best to describe the situation in the thread title, but pics do better. I have a gable adjacent a gabled entry portico and the gable wall is to have a decorative window. The gable is shown in this pic and in the pic, the part of the wall NOT specified as "roof cuts wall at bottom" is highlighted. As can be seen, the window is not centered under the gable peak, and it is because the window won't cut to bridge two walls that differ in spec. Here is a pic with the other part of the wall selected and highlighted. To get this to model in 3D I had to specify that wall as "roof cuts wall at bottom." I've some cleanup work to do with ceiling platform edges and more, but here is a view of the vaulted ceiling under the portico, which makes it clear that cutting the wall with the roof is needed to keep its bottom from entering the vault space. So what is the hack here that is needed to get the window centered?

One of these barndo projects, this one for a nephew with too many vehicles, some large. The 2200 sf house that is attached to the car barn has a reasonably complex roof with gables and wrap porch roofs all coming from the central tall gabled roof with a 10:12 pitch. Here is a birds eye view of the barn roof (4:12 all trussed) laying over the barn-side roof of the house. While the barn is all trussed, the house roofs are all stickframed, and the lines you see are the rafters ghosting through the sheathing and roof finish. This thing has a couple features of the plan that are (I think) throwing kinks into my setting of roof planes and the rafter framing for each plane. This image shows the 10:12 roof part of which is under the overframed barn roof extensions above. That there is so much of the 10:12 being raftered is due to the rafters framing the vaulted ceiling (one half of it) in the greatroom-kitchen large open room below. The barn roof has a different framing scheme than what lays over the house, and the planes that are built atop the house are not all stick framed to the same rafter depth spec, thus there is the one single plane in the foreground, and beyond that, there are two planes, one highlighted, the other not. It took me hours of fiddling to get the planes coplanar with the garage roof planes, but that done, I am unable to properly frame the near plane. That plane is entirely over the 10:12 pitch roof below, the lower roof framed in 2x12. I have the layover plan specified as 2x10 rafters and when rafters are either manually placed or autoframed, they are identified as 2x10 but are chopped to 2x6. Is this a known glitch in Chief when stickframing one roof over another? This roof has actually TWO roofs under, the vaulted roof half I had to do as a roof instead of a ceiling plane and framed in 2x8, then the 2x12 main roof over that, then this barn roof overframe. A three decker. Here is a pic of the framing. That layover is supposed to be showing 2x10 rafters but Chief has ripped off the bottom of each to make them something close to a 2x6.

I solved it by putting a roof plane on that side instead of a ceiling plane. But that created a mess above. Separate thread for that one.

Here is the section view taken through the room with the vaulted ceiling. One plane of the ceiling is framed by the roof rafters. The other is my problem. Inside the room, a camera shot sees the ceiling plane selected, but there is no tool for framing it. Trusses when drawn will map to ceiling planes, but this is a stick framed portion of the building.

More angst will follow when you ask, "how do I rid this roof edge of this pesky subfascia, and fascia?" The answer? Don't bother, don't wonder, don't ask. Draw CAD details with help from CAD DETAIL FROM VIEW and move on. Those for-permit prints are needed ASAP.

Mark is right about it not being a scribe. I design the actual build for kitchens and bath cabinetry in the plans I do for one particular builder who sources the cabs from a CNC cutter. I use eCabinets software, and the preferred joinery by this customer is for 3/4" backs with full four-edge lock dado joinery with deck, top, and sides. We do it with the back having a 1/8" recess. It does two things, moving the dado inboard 1/8" helping to prevent split-out, and in installation, allowing a slightly better fit to walls when the walls have a bulge right behind cab center. Nothing ever gets scribed except the applied end panels that are at every exposed end of a run of walls or bases.

Like this? Edit the upper roof to pull back the section of overhang the lower roof lays on. I pulled it back to the center of the wall so the wall rises as you want to see it.

So fascia height is not your issue? Please explain what you cannot find a way to do.

Any roof plane can be moved in 3D space. In a 3D view with roof planes turned on, all framing off, select one or both of the laid-on wings. Do a screencap pic of what you see, and post it here. All four planes shown here have the same fascia height.

Examine both roofs in a section view to see which one is more readily raised or lowered, framing-wise. Then open the one you choose as fixed-no-edit, copy its fascia height, close, open other roof for spec, lock its pitch, and past in that fascia height. Done. Just like you did way back in X12 and X13. You will need to edit the intersections. Reframe.

I write all the details manually into the comments field in object properties so it reports into the window schedule.

Here is another video. Your framing details are going to be done by you using Chief tools. Chief does not autoframe this, but it will model it in 3D for you with you using the available roof tools. As for con docs, the little bit of shipbuilding needed for these two small segments and their valley is going to be done by you using CAD. What software produced the 3D model you show in your opening post? Does that software autoframe this?

The second I saw the photo in post 1, I knew the cabinet whiz kids would start a race to see who could cross the finish line first. In a photo finish it was Mark by a whisker.

Why not that 3D detail for beaded faceframes? For one, getting the woodgrain right at the stile/rail joints would be a pain. But who ever does beaded faceframed inset work that is NOT painted? For 2D representation it would be sufficient if they would give the option for a fuzzy line at a 1/4" or 5/16" offset away from the opening to represent the quirk groove adjacent the bead. Chief is on to other 3D things and not this. I wish they'd give us better window sash and frames, and doors with stops, the kind for interior doors, and the kind for exterior doors. From the tease, it looks as if we will get simple boxlike things on roofing and siding to emulate standing seam ribs and battens. Maybe they'll even do 3D clapboards.

You specify scale when sending a view to layout. A layout page can contain a number of views, and each has its own scale. Select any view on a page, and there's a tool for editing its scale. Have you worked with this tool?

The door is a 7/16" countertop, its three piece molding first a 2-1/4 stile/rail with eased edges at face side, next a 1/8" rectangular profile done in insulation air gap (i.e. no material), last a 1/4" bead alongside is a 1/16" quirk detail. The door is inset into the 1.5" width faceframe with margins of zero. The door symbol is readily resizable and is dependent on cabinet face specs. I did not do a slab d'front for this exercise. See the problem when you do the elevation camera? Chief's line weights give it away, also the door operation lines. Here is a catalog cut from Walzcraft, from whom we source fronts and trim and d'boxes for most jobs, this page is in their Signature Series catalog. You can see the d'fronts are inset into frames, the frames not beaded, but the doors, stiles and rail mitered, have beads both sides of the perimeter members. I'd find it rather exhausting to have to model jobs with elements like this, just to satisfy the wants of interior designers.

Here is what I think is considered a pretty standard look in inset-fronts cabinetry, and the term "beaded" applies to the frame and not the door or drawerfronts. This very common style almost always has no beads around door perimeter. I don't know of a Chief hack that can do the frames like this in 3D. Here is a Chiefer showing how he does the "look" of a frame bead in 2D. He ends up with bead-on-bead, the bead along door and d'front edges hugging the frame beads. I've never seen that in a showroom or catalog. I don't do any inset stuff, but here is what popped into my head. Specify your offsets so as to have a 3/8" margin between faceframe openings and the door or d'front, and make and place a 3D bead molding tight to the openings, sized to leave the 3mm margins. Tedious, but if you gotta have it, you gotta do it. Consider doing your work in Cabinetvision or Mosaik, both of which have what you want.

Regardless of how you make the door symbol, show us, just as Mark and I showed you, how you have it stretch-zoned.

Here is a 5-piece door I made with solids for the perimeter and a countertop with perimeter molding for the center. The molding emulates a 30 degree cope/stick detail. The kitchen in the pic also has this detail for all the lower drawerfronts, with a separate symbol used for those. See the stretch zones? I included a catalog cut from Walzcraft to show what I used as a reference, the cut showing one of their many many door profiles.