GeneDavis

I don't do it often enough to remember. You're manually building and editing roofs, and you need that point where one roof edge intersects an adjacent plane.

That garage has a second floor same footprint (width) as first. Does yours?

Unless one is specifying the windows that will actually be used, the convention is to dimension to centers only, and the framer will use that plus the window schedule to build. The schedule is configured to show window unit size and R.O. size. But in Dimension>Dimension>Framing Dimension Defaults, one can set the dimensions to tic from centers, side edges, and R.O. edges. Checking all makes for overly busy drawings. If you've never done it, find a way to be on-site on a job you drew, when the framers mark out a deck for wall building.

More CAD polylined, color fill, and learn to use the order of draw tools. Use Chief's Help files to learn.

What's the goal? Construction docs or 3D renderings? Model each in its own plan file, make a symbol of each fully modeled building, import all three symbols into a fourth plan file where you can build terrain, add features, other object symbols, and do renderings of file 4. If you want one big layout file for all the three buildings, it can readily be done, the layout referencing plans 1, 2, and 3.

Nice. That's a three kite turn. To make code and have the comfy walkline and inside tread min width, I like to go more. But you are doing asbuilt, right? It is what it is.

Looks to me as if you need, at the stair top, a "two kite" turn from which you step to the second floor hallway. Get a pencil and paper, and the calculator on your phone or whatever. Somewhere in main floor plan where there is room, draw a straight stairs that has the riser count to floor 2 that you want. Write down that riser height from the stairs dialog. Or just take a section view of the stairs, and measure up from floor 1 to the top and second-from-top tread. Those are the elevations of the two landings you will now draw with CAD, each of the two kites. Make each a landing, set heights, do the magic you need to do railings or not as you want, and place them where they go in plan view. In the direction of the straight run of stairs, from the lower landing edge, draw a CAD line X tread lengths long, X being the run length of your asbuilt stairs. At the end of that CAD line, which was drawn from the lower kite edge, that is where you now use the stair tool to draw your straight run.

Then delete one of the kites, the one I marked, and reshape the one to its R to a rectangle.

The file's "unavailable," Val.

I didn't download but suspected it was imprudent use of spraypaint. Spraypaint's fun and effective if you are tagging bridge overpasses or train cars, but before using it in Chief, you ought to study the help files, watch all the video tuuts, and practice on a tiny simple building. It's a lot more complex than Krylon.

In plan view, draw a CAD "object," a rectangle, circle, polygon, anything closed. Convert it to a slab or 3D solid. Now convert that object to a symbol and choose type as Electrical. Open it, add lights or a single light, set it however you want for placement behavior (on wall, on floor, on ceiling, etc.) Since it is an electrical object, it will report to the electrical schedule.

You would be better served by going to the site for HD Pro users. This forum is for Chief Architect Premier users, many of whom don't know much if anything about HD Pro.

Thirteen seconds to find on YouTube

Open your roof that's across the end. Copy its ridge height. Close the roof dialog and open both side roofs for spec. Paste that ridge height in. Go back and do same for fascia height. Then in plan view, click the edge of a side, use click the join roof planes tool, and click the end of the end roof. They will join. Do same for other corner. But why haven't you tried this already? Have you watched some training videos on roof editing?

In the wall frame detail window, use CAD however necessary to help edit your wall, rotating members, aligning them using the parallel/perpendicular tool, editing intersections with the extend and cut tools. Pro tip. You cannot draw new framing members, but you can use what is there and copy and paste and resize. A wall that autoframes at say, ten total members, can be edited to have dozens. Use section cuts and then CAD DETAIL FROM VIEW to create CAD you can then copy and paste into your wall detail. Have at it. It's fun. Do you have roof trusses? Did you know that you can do all kinds of editing of the truss chords, webbing, intersections, etc.? Play around with it all, and learn! The one shown here was heavily edited, to show the panelizer how we want it built.

OOB Chief comes with that layer (a System Layer) turned off. Somebody's been diddling.

Open up the wall framing detail, and edit away!

Thanks, Gary. I've changed to that one, and things seem good now.

I cannot get 15 seconds into a RTRT (PBR) without freeze-up and lock and have to shut off by holding power button for 15 seconds. My card and driver details are shown in the screencap here.

If you want the balloon framed wall to have top plates positioned for upright lookouts, like what is shown here You might have to edit the framing in the wall. Shown is a scissors truss arrangement inside for 10/12 vaulted ceiling under a 12/12 roof, and 2x6 upright lookouts running from inboard truss to subfacia, the lookouts bearing on the wall plates.

I've not downloaded it yet. What are the best new things?

You know you can break section lines, right? What are you needing to show? Screencaps of the issue and a plan posted here might be the quickest way to get advice. There's a camera view option the removes a wall obstructing a room view.

You've learned a valuable lesson. Always post a plan to get a quick solution.

What is the goal here and why is the surveyor not on the team? Is it to be able to view proposed buildings at various places on the acreage, all in 3D?

Sorry for the post and taking bandwidth. I got it. The plane I drew was a "regular" roof plane and I thought by specifying that overframe thing it made it a truss base. I corrected things and all is well. One thing of note. The trussmakers I know build these valley set trusses, when they get large like these, kind of like end wall trusses. Vertical chords only, spaced about 48". There is no way to edit a gable end truss and in the spec dialog, specify its chord spacing. I manually edited these in the truss details.