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  1. robdyck's post in Flat Soffit, No Fascia was marked as the answer   
    Eave Fascia: 1"
    Gable Fascia: 10" (or so)
    Boxed Eave Length: 14" (or so) 
    You'll need to experiment to get it just right, or know the math:)
  2. robdyck's post in Auto Dims Again... was marked as the answer   
    Holy Cow! No doubt you're confused! Maybe delete 90% of those...
    At any rate your trouble is you have more than one type of dimension set to auto-refresh. I blame Ken Suffridge, a no-good trouble maker for sure!

  3. robdyck's post in How to change deck rim joist default material was marked as the answer   
    It comes from the exterior material of the railing wall above it.
  4. robdyck's post in Roof Plane: Soffit/Eave Incorrect material was marked as the answer   
    The roof plan rebuilt correctly when I got rid of an unnecessary line segment. Select the roof, the click on the tool pointed out in the image below.

  5. robdyck's post in Crazy wall showing up and cannot delete! help! was marked as the answer   
  6. robdyck's post in Dormer Corners Driving me Nuts was marked as the answer   
    I've made a few adjustments. A couple of points:
    Cheek walls need "Roof cuts wall at bottom" checked adjust roof hole polyline where it is not accurate manually adjust wall connections of cheek walls ensure cheek walls are using the default material at the exterior (Wall dbx / Materials) 1967753177_CURRANAS-BUILT02robd.plan
  7. robdyck's post in How to Insert Picture Without a Frame was marked as the answer   
    @kaitadams13 I'd suggest making sure that p-solid is on the 'furniture' layer. In the last camera view, it appears as though it's layer isn't displayed.
  8. robdyck's post in Noob question I'm sure but i cant locate it in the search - Changing ceiling height changes moves the floor up, not the ceiling down was marked as the answer   
    Double click the problem room, and reset the floor elevation to the default. Then, select 'Shelf Ceiling" and then enter your desired ceiling height.

  9. robdyck's post in Where would you put the window label? was marked as the answer   
    Dimensioning to sides of windows in a typical Canadian market is a disaster as I use nominal imperial sizes, but most manufacturers build metric units.
    ie: a 60" x 30" window will actually be 1500 x 750  (59 1/16" x 29 1/2"). 
    I believe I'll offset all my labels to be above or to the right of center.

  10. robdyck's post in Bay Windows was marked as the answer   
    I'm working on the same thing right now, but luckily I've got one from a previous plan. For a manufactured bay window, you need to use a wall type that is a single layer, the same depth and material as the window sash / frame. If you want a typical wall below, then you need to use a pony wall.  This will allow you to get the windows very close to the inside corner. To clean up the exterior corner you can use a Corner trim or a p-solid. This process will not provide the portion of wall above the bay. For this you can use walls on the floor above and drag them down to the correct height. You'll also need to build the jamb and casing manually using solids and 3d moldings.