GeneDavis

The door is a 7/16" countertop, its three piece molding first a 2-1/4 stile/rail with eased edges at face side, next a 1/8" rectangular profile done in insulation air gap (i.e. no material), last a 1/4" bead alongside is a 1/16" quirk detail. The door is inset into the 1.5" width faceframe with margins of zero. The door symbol is readily resizable and is dependent on cabinet face specs. I did not do a slab d'front for this exercise. See the problem when you do the elevation camera? Chief's line weights give it away, also the door operation lines. Here is a catalog cut from Walzcraft, from whom we source fronts and trim and d'boxes for most jobs, this page is in their Signature Series catalog. You can see the d'fronts are inset into frames, the frames not beaded, but the doors, stiles and rail mitered, have beads both sides of the perimeter members. I'd find it rather exhausting to have to model jobs with elements like this, just to satisfy the wants of interior designers.

Here is what I think is considered a pretty standard look in inset-fronts cabinetry, and the term "beaded" applies to the frame and not the door or drawerfronts. This very common style almost always has no beads around door perimeter. I don't know of a Chief hack that can do the frames like this in 3D. Here is a Chiefer showing how he does the "look" of a frame bead in 2D. He ends up with bead-on-bead, the bead along door and d'front edges hugging the frame beads. I've never seen that in a showroom or catalog. I don't do any inset stuff, but here is what popped into my head. Specify your offsets so as to have a 3/8" margin between faceframe openings and the door or d'front, and make and place a 3D bead molding tight to the openings, sized to leave the 3mm margins. Tedious, but if you gotta have it, you gotta do it. Consider doing your work in Cabinetvision or Mosaik, both of which have what you want.

Regardless of how you make the door symbol, show us, just as Mark and I showed you, how you have it stretch-zoned.

Here is a 5-piece door I made with solids for the perimeter and a countertop with perimeter molding for the center. The molding emulates a 30 degree cope/stick detail. The kitchen in the pic also has this detail for all the lower drawerfronts, with a separate symbol used for those. See the stretch zones? I included a catalog cut from Walzcraft to show what I used as a reference, the cut showing one of their many many door profiles.

Pretty basic stuff. Look at my spec and show us yours with screenshots.

Hey @Renerabbitt thanks for weighing in on this weighty topic. To get the photorealism the OP wants for the soffit material, wouldn't one need to find a texture that was 1) seamless, 2) exhibited the desired wood grain, 3) exhibited the rounded-edges deep and wide groove between "planks," and 4) has a normal map included? How does one find such a texture one can download and use in Chief? And if this instead needs one to have the skills to use photoshop or Blender or gimp or some other 3rd party package, how does one acquire such skills? There are plenty of perspective-view photos of this kind of vinyl soffit product but no straight-on seamless images, at least from my measly searches. The only Chief training videos I can find that deal with normal mapping use textures that are in-library that come with normal maps.

AI is the best way to go. You picked a single element of your building's collection of exterior finishes, and it is one that can only be realistically rendered if done in 3D. Other elements such as stone, clapboard siding, tile roofing, standing seam roofing, all these are beyond Chief's capability to deliver true realism when rendering in Chief 3D. Here is what I asked Google and read the response. https://gemini.google.com/share/6517c9d94277 After that, take the time to watch this video. Pay particular attention to the part of the discussion that deals with your concern about architecture changes and hallucinations.

Get AI to do it. If you are set up to chat using your mic, your workflow can be a quick conversation.

My drawings get used by the panelizer who uses them and submits shop drawings, which I review and correct, if needed. It's up to the fabricator to size all the members based on the info I provide.

Editing Chief's wall framing can be done in 2D and 3D. Chief walls are autoframed either singly (click a wall, click "build framing . . . ") or with a "build all" click. For your purpose, you will open the CAD space detail for each wall either from the project browser where you can see each wall detail "page," or by selecting a framed wall and clicking the "open wall detail" button. With a wall detail page open, you are looking at the 2D representation of the 3D framing members generated by Chief when you framed the wall, and all are per the specs you either accepted from the out of box settings that come with Chief, or per your edited enhanced specs. Plate count, stud spacing, header size and orientation, etc. You will be using basic Chief CAD, but are working on 3D objects. You cannot "draw" a framing member in this space, but you can copy, then move, rotate, edit size, edit placement (flat to inside, flat to outside), and end cuts (using CAD cut and extend). Work with it. Explore all the things you can do. I usually let the panelizer decide where wall joints go and I insist on getting submittals to review and approve, so I can see joints don't compromise some aspect of the build. This means for a wall length longer than the assembly table size (which dictates max panel length), I'll show them the wall at it's full length, say 28 feet, and let them join however it makes sense to them. If I need them to change joint placement for whatever reason, I show them how with a CAD detail. This is rare. Screencap of a wall detail shown attached. Note label. Chief number-labels wall detail pages, and you can edit them in a way that makes sense to your erection sequence so your Con Docs give good directions. As for Chief CAD and editing, I recommend taking the time to watch every single training video on CAD and CAD editing. Copy, paste, point to point moves, rotations, cut, extend, fence, dimension, arrows, notes, labels, and more.

You can edit and annotate your wall framing elevations to your hearts content for a panelized job. Here is a gable end. See the joints?

Just spoke with tech support and it's a known issue and they "hope" it'll be gone by the time X18 comes around. What is particularly annoying is that deleting them isn't permanent. They come back right exactly where they were before. I was hoping for an update, say, tomorrow.

When in CAD detail 2D mode, I am always getting unwated points. Happens in wall framing detail and truss detail views, plus any CAD detail I have created. Sometimes they are stacked on top of each other, as if copied and pasted in place, and deleting them takes multiple clicks or window select to delete. What could be the cause? I gotta solve this.

Look for the threads that discuss making screened porch walls and you'll see how you can do walls, but the roofs with the aluminum bents and purlins, those are gonna be tough.

Import it in .skp format.