joey_martin

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Everything posted by joey_martin

  1. For what it's worth, I opened and moved some furniture around, moved a couple rafters and joists, took some camera view, etc in plan view no hangups at all. Having said that, there were a bunch of materials that didn't come with the file, so perhaps the problem is a material, custom or otherwise, that you are using that is causing the issue. When I take a 3D vector view and move a roof plan, it would take around 20 seconds to stop spinning. The roof material/pattern may be the issue. When I move a piece of furniture in 3D don't have that issue.
  2. When you select the soffit, you are most likely selecting the room first. Click the soffit, hit TAB and you should be good to go.
  3. Hold the shift key and select the rug and all the furniture that is setting on it and block them. There are times this method will trigger whatever the hang up is. I've had to do this at times to get one chair out of 6 to go under a dining table.
  4. Open the sofa symbol and make sure it has a fill. After sending the sofa to the front, select the rug and send it back a layer. See if that helps.
  5. Go to version 10 and right click on the library you want and choose EXPORT. Save it to a location on you computer. Go to X13 and in the menu bar at the top, choose LIBRARY and import that library from the location you saved it.
  6. BTW...I have noticed X13 turning this option on every once in a while without me clicking that option. Out of nowhere the drawing sheet is being shown. One recent plan I had to turn it off about 10 times.
  7. Sometimes it's an empty text box. Hold SHIFT and drag outside the plan on each side and see what you find. You won't be able to see it if it's empty, until you select it.
  8. Hold SHIFT when selecting the layout box and the corner nodes should disappear leaving one single node at the top of the layout box that can be used to change the size/scale of whats in the box.
  9. Double click the break tool and click on the roof edge. I think that used to work anyway.
  10. As Ryan said, it's not a 30" thick wall, just some wall framing with a CAD box the same color as the walls filling in the gap.
  11. Thank you! I found one in the 3D warehouse but it's no where near as good as yours. Big thanks!
  12. @rlackore can I get that symbol? Have a project where they are asking for one of these...
  13. You will need a custom muntin for that. easy to make.
  14. The roof planes simply need to be connected to the main roof plane. Select a roof plane, hit 2 on tryout keyboard, and select the roof plane to connect it to.
  15. When an opening goes into the foundation level you need to account for that. Look at this setting and adjust accordingly.
  16. Check the both the front and rear roof planes have the same fascia top height.
  17. You need to add a small "attic" wall in that gap, or...extend the wall back through the gap and then open the wall dbx and check the box for ROOF CUT WALL AT BOTTOM.
  18. A molding polyline will be the most likely method for some of the connectors. Slabs and polysolids as well.
  19. You will have to do that manually.
  20. Great service for residential builders and developers of all sizes. Email Joey at joeymdp@gmail.com with Builder/Developer in the title and I will get you the info you need, and we can set up a time to chat or Zoom in to my computer and I can show you first hand what I can do for you.
  21. Same principal. Set the minimum separation to ZERO and mull 2 doors together
  22. It's a door with a sidelight (fixed door) mulled together. Easy as could be.
  23. Open the wall DBX and tell Chief to build the foundation where you want it to build and it will do the rest for you. Nothing to move.
  24. Triforce has an 11-7/8" truss, but as @robdyck you really need the 16" if you are going to use these. They are great for my area to keep posts and bulkheads out of finished basements. https://www.openjoisttriforce.com/triforce-features-and-benefits/#joistsize