Gawdzira

It is a plan from the mystical land of whole numbers. I have wanted to visit but I am afraid I won't return.

On a side note, this plan I am working off of for the as built was drawn in 1973. The dimensioning strategy is clear and simple. Good enough to use as a guide for how to do it right for clarity and simpliciity.

Yes, it is a random behavior.

I have been seeing this happen quite a bit in x15. In the image I had a dimension string at 6' and +/- 4' to the walls. I was adjusting the walls using the dimensions. Once I hit the dimension to move the 4' section, the dimension string lost the 6' segment and became a 10' segment. I realize that 10' is greater than 6' and we should all shoot for greatness but in this case, I am not feeling great about the behavior. Plan file https://www.dropbox.com/s/v3zeso7hz8h22h7/CAP AS BUILT V1.plan?dl=0

You can do almost anything with an I joist system. Think anything you can do with solid sawn lumber but now you have larger spans with lighter material that is super consistent and can be drilled out with crazy large holes. There are a multitude of instructional videos on installation as well as drawn/illustrated details.

TJ-4000.pdf

Have you considered Truss Joist Rafters? I am not sure of your layout and whether there are large open spaces but you can site build some beefy ridge beams by connecting Versalam pieces. I had my last project with (3) 1.75" x 16" versa lam beams. I wanted to break it into 3 pieces so we could construct it without a larger crew and a crane was not an option.

"3" is the hot key to create a break in the roof plan line.

Break your roof plane and drag it across (1), then break it again and drag it up(2) You can do this in plan view or in 3d

Oops, I thought it but I did not type it.

Reduce the size of your eave fascia. The soffit is set to follow that.

For the bullnose return on drywall, ask you clients to squint when looking at the renderings (Pro Tip).

The solid blocking does not have to be continuous but I would make it around 12-16" ( you may have to translate to Canadian math number measure stuff?) at the center of the post to give the post stability from rotating the rim. Simpson_Guardrail_Post_Connectors.pdf

Copy your wall type, rename and change that number

This does create a slightly more complex detail to get the connection of the guardrail post. Make sure to spec solid blocking at the guardrail connection and thru bolt back to the beam with additional blocking per the various deck railing framing guides.