javatom

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About javatom

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    Coeur d'Alene, Idaho

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  1. Have the engineer add it to your PDF. If it is being done under the engineers direction, they can send you a jpeg of a signed stamp and you can import it into your layout. Make sure they know that you are doing it this way and send them a copy of the stamped version for their records.
  2. A slab supporting a wall is not entirely about the compressive strength. It is about the lack of a footing. A slab on grade could become subject to frost heave. The OP is from Eagar AZ. The elevation is 7000' so it might be an issue for the project. I would hate to be trying to defend the choice of eliminating footings at some point in the future but then again, anyone that wants to live in a pole barn probably doesn't really care.
  3. A residential floor load on a bearing wall needs a footing with continuous rebar. A 4" slab is NOT going to work for this purpose.
  4. Cris, the job was completed 2 yrs ago. You might want to check the dates on these before you post a response.
  5. Make sure the electrician knows about this. The outlet for the motor goes in that area not the usual spot on the ceiling.
  6. Move the roof plane in the Z direction then join them at the top with the roof plane on the other side.
  7. This might do the trick as Chopsaw indicated.
  8. I would imagine that all areas would need bolts to secure the bottom plate.
  9. It might be a little hard to install seismic hardware etc. with this set up.
  10. The wood walls should align to the the foundation NOT the brick. Think of the brick as a facade. It does not support the walls above it.
  11. This home is in an area of wind speed 90 and seismic C. That detail might not work in all areas. I usually spec something like what Scott shows and let the engineer dial in the specifications. I live in an area where the builders do not like to use steel. The specifics of your area can greatly influence a lot of the specifications.
  12. I have done them out of wood as well. The engineer usually requires 6x6 columns of Glulam material or PSL. It is then balloon framed with a lot of hold down steel straps and bolts. The tricky part is supporting the header between the upper and lower windows. I usually use a hidden hanger. The HUC series works well.
  13. That stair would be a no go where I live.
  14. It is because you have the window top higher than the bottom of the floor joist of the level above. Lower the windows.
  15. This is kind of like asking how much a car costs per pound.