• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

134 Excellent


About javatom

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location
    Coeur d'Alene, Idaho

Recent Profile Visitors

2732 profile views
  1. Have the engineer add it to your PDF. If it is being done under the engineers direction, they can send you a jpeg of a signed stamp and you can import it into your layout. Make sure they know that you are doing it this way and send them a copy of the stamped version for their records.
  2. A slab supporting a wall is not entirely about the compressive strength. It is about the lack of a footing. A slab on grade could become subject to frost heave. The OP is from Eagar AZ. The elevation is 7000' so it might be an issue for the project. I would hate to be trying to defend the choice of eliminating footings at some point in the future but then again, anyone that wants to live in a pole barn probably doesn't really care.
  3. A residential floor load on a bearing wall needs a footing with continuous rebar. A 4" slab is NOT going to work for this purpose.
  4. Cris, the job was completed 2 yrs ago. You might want to check the dates on these before you post a response.
  5. Make sure the electrician knows about this. The outlet for the motor goes in that area not the usual spot on the ceiling.
  6. Move the roof plane in the Z direction then join them at the top with the roof plane on the other side.
  7. This might do the trick as Chopsaw indicated.
  8. I would imagine that all areas would need bolts to secure the bottom plate.
  9. It might be a little hard to install seismic hardware etc. with this set up.
  10. The wood walls should align to the the foundation NOT the brick. Think of the brick as a facade. It does not support the walls above it.
  11. This home is in an area of wind speed 90 and seismic C. That detail might not work in all areas. I usually spec something like what Scott shows and let the engineer dial in the specifications. I live in an area where the builders do not like to use steel. The specifics of your area can greatly influence a lot of the specifications.
  12. I have done them out of wood as well. The engineer usually requires 6x6 columns of Glulam material or PSL. It is then balloon framed with a lot of hold down steel straps and bolts. The tricky part is supporting the header between the upper and lower windows. I usually use a hidden hanger. The HUC series works well.
  13. That stair would be a no go where I live.
  14. It is because you have the window top higher than the bottom of the floor joist of the level above. Lower the windows.
  15. This is kind of like asking how much a car costs per pound.