Chrisb222

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Everything posted by Chrisb222

  1. When you send to layout you can select Plot Lines, and select Use Edge Line Defaults and Use Pattern Line Defaults This overrides the object's line weight settings Then within the layout you can open the layout box and change the line thickness or color That's what I do and I like having a quick simple EASY way to make sure all the edge and pattern lines are consistent I usually make the pattern lines gray once in layout, I think it's a nice look
  2. Sure. I used to struggle with showing the top line of the stairs for that reason. Even with a thin wall if you turn off display of invisible walls it still covers the stair line. If you move the wall out a fuzz it throws the model off. I started doing this trick and it works great, and keeps the 3D intact.
  3. Yeah you need a really thin room divider wall there. You can't make it 0" but you can make it .01" the program will show it as 0 but it will work Then line it up right over the edge of the stairs, put it on its own layer, make the line style and weight for that layer the same as your stairs, and tun off the other Invisible Walls layer
  4. Best way was already given here: Although not real tricky if you're down with copy/paste in place
  5. Chief can do that. Takes a little editing prior to and after layout, but not much.
  6. No, I have to manually add this to every plan: "X" for active and "O" for fixed is standard in the US but I agree these indicators should be automatic. I also think the handing should be corrected and made a Suggestion about it some time ago, I'm going to bump that and add request for the opening indicators.
  7. Well, can't argue with that.
  8. PLAN VIEWS / DEFAULT SETS / LAYER SETS / SAVED DEFAULTS
  9. Oh, pick a few out of potential millions I guess somewhere in between. I know Chief excels at conventional US wood framed residential construction, which is all I use it for, but I've read lots of comments about limitations when you step away from that... which I never do, so don't have much else to add.
  10. Looks like you're seeing the wood wall beyond the concrete wall. A standard cross section will continue infinitely, and the cut objects are hollow, so you see beyond them
  11. As was said, CA would be great except it's more geared to conventional design. Other than that, it's perfect for what you want to do. Don't overlook the fact that you have at your disposal here a (probably) unparalleled resource of master users (not me haha) willing to offer assistance with the software. Personally I think it's a simply FABULOUS idea and I whole-heartedly and strongly encourage you to pursue your dreams like a starving lion after a herd of gazelles.
  12. Just wanted to highlight this very important sentence since it was at the end of a long post and might get missed. Yes, that will eliminate the problem of picture files getting moved for deleted. I "got into the habit" after throwing away picture files that I thought got Saved In Plan, then opened an old file and nope, it's gone. Kinda like a sudden freeze after a few hours of work will "teach" you to hit command-S every once in a while
  13. It appears already closed as it is shaded Should be able to convert to slab, p-solid, or terrain feature, depending on your needs...? then apply any texture...?
  14. Just guessing here but I would probably go at that with pony walls, railing walls, and porch rooms For this method you would need to delete the concrete walls you have now and start over Lots of ways to do it, should be fairly simple this took about 5 mins
  15. I use Floor 0 for foundation and basement plans, and control what is shown using plan views People do it both ways, but I want them to be on the same floor because THEY ARE
  16. Is that in reference to X13? Because people have already reported that X12 runs fine through Rosetta 2, with the exception of PBR I find this odd since apparently Universal 2 makes it "easy" for developers to compile fat binaries of their program that will run natively on x86 and ARM machines ??
  17. Well a lot of spec builders here can't build em fast enough, they're usually sold before framing is finished Hey do what you want, I fully intend to build only spec houses when I "retire" One older gentleman who did that told his realtor, don't even bring anyone around until after the house is done and I'm gone! Southern Ohio
  18. Yep the classic dilemma! Grass is always greener??
  19. That's cool. I did that during the crash and loved it, no homeowners to deal with. Now I'm back to design/build contract houses but the headaches! I have thought about returning to spec building, it has a lot of upsides! Good luck
  20. I don't know, it depends on how much you want to spend and if Premier is a good investment based on your goals with the software I used HomeDesigner Pro for a few months before switching to Premier, and developed quite a few house plans and construction sets with it That would be a similar experience only much cheaper. Then if you decide to upgrade to Premier they credit you the full amount you spent on HDP (or at least did at that time) I will say, one reason I'm stuck with paying SSA is the ability to send clients 3D models of their design they can view at home. Worth every penny
  21. Or move that one item to its own layer and turn the layer off
  22. Yes create new materials for whatever boards you use I use three types of drywall, 1/2"x48-12, 5/8"x48-12, and 1/2"x54-12 (for 9' walls) I also created specific wall types that specify these different boards. For example, houses with 9' walls have exterior and interior walls with 54" drywall. Garage exterior walls have 48" drywall. Garage-to-house wall has 54" on house side and 48" on garage side (10' walls typically). 8' house walls, 48" drywall on exterior and interior walls, garage exterior 54", garage-to-house 48" on house side, 54" on garage side. House ceilings get 5/8", garage ceiling gets 1/2"
  23. Just about any computer should work for this, connected via HDMI. The output is pretty grainy, like monitor resolution blown up, but you're usually sitting some distance from the TV so it's not bad I do this in client's homes sometimes, using a basic HP laptop and a long HDMI cable, so long as they have a TV with an HDMI port and know how to change the input And even with the basic CPU graphics of the laptop, I can do 3D views and navigate quickly and easily