Chrisb222

Best response to a downvote ever. Thanks that made me smile. Yeah the downvoting is stupid. Now somebody gimme a reddie, I eat em for snacks!

Under the Build menu, go to Build > Framing > Build Framing...

It looks good but how are you gonna build it? I see a lot of issues with supporting the second floor and the roof - i.e., this design won't work using bonus room trusses. Not saying it can't be done, but it's challenging...

You could make the Ceiling Finish layer thinner, like .2" which interestingly will also take care of the top of wall issue: Be aware some of these solutions will alter your model and possibly cause issues / mistakes in things like framing and material list, etc.

Personally I would use Multiple Copy, which would probably have been done faster than typing this lol.

I'd just select the wall, grab the top resize handle, and pull the top down and hit TAB to bring up the move distance dialog, enter .01" and presto:

You're welcome. Are you seeing this too? I never noticed the line effect scaling with the zoom. In other words, when zooming in real close the extent and squiggle effects were diminished. Wasn't sure if it was just my file...

I actually don't want the line weights to be the same as the view the detail is made from, and so these unique layer sets can be customized to produce the desired results automatically. Also, some views need a special layer set since the feature converts the model and other objects that otherwise don't have CAD-like line settings into CAD using special layers mentioned above, and those layers can be preprogrammed with the line settings you want. The OOB template doesn't even have those layers in the ALDO, they're created automatically when a detail view from say an elevation is created. Fun fact: when a CAD Detail from View is first made from a plan view, layers "0" and "Defpoints" are automatically created, with nothing on them.

Apparently the line drawing settings are related to the view size in the elevation, and the DPI settings in Save as PDF..? I suspected the Save as PDF DPI setting right off the bat, and went experimenting. I opened a file elevation and set it the same as yours, watercolor with the same line drawn settings. I noticed when zooming in and out in elevation view, that the line drawing effect scaled with the zoom. I never noticed that before. When I saved a 600 DPI PDF, the line effect was greatly diminished from the elevation view and the layout view. Changing the DPI to 72 retained the line settings (mostly) but was fuzzy. Increasing to dramatically exaggerated line settings looked ridiculous in layout, but preserved the effect in PDF:

Hi Damon, Place 0" thickness room dividers where the two walls come together. This will fix your problem:

Shane, go into Defaults and set the layer properties for the various views. CAD Detail From View of Elevations will use CAD_ Default_Lines and CAD_ Default_Patterns layers.

You can also manually draw an attic wall and set to "Roof cuts wall at bottom." I'm not in Chief right now and can't test it but this should work. You may need to extend the ceiling planes into the wall space slightly.

Do you mean for construction? Or to build the model in Chief? The last picture is an attic truss, but it can be stick framed as well. If you mean to just build the model in Chief you just need to create the rooms and roof planes, you don't have to frame it.

Add dormers to increase full wall height spaces, can be gable or shed. This is one I did a few years back:

I don't think that image is what your client is asking for. I think they want an attic room contained entirely within the roof, with knee walls as someone else said: It can easily be done with trusses called attic room trusses or bonus room trusses. The second story walls do not protrude through the roof. The 8' ceiling will be in the center of the room, with a sloping ceiling.

Why not use the Perspective Floor Overview camera? The ceilings are turned off automatically, without you changing the model.

You can select roof trim if you unlock its Roofs, Trim layer (locked by default on stock templates). You can then perform some edits to the molding.... which can get quite glitchy and entertaining, depending. Good luck!

Two main reasons: It's going to be nearly impossible to build that design and not have future issues, besides being difficult to build period. It's going to look like it was designed by someone going after a certain "look" who then bashed that together with a floor plan, without regard to potential water intrusion or aesthetics. I get that, and that's why we're seeing so many low slope shed roofs, white B&B siding, and barndos right now. But professionally designed houses do share similarities... for the reasons you're getting pushback on your design; they work, they're fairly straightforward to build, and they look good. But hey I've seen lots of houses that made me go "what the F...!?" Your decision, but you could still have a very handsome home that gets close to the look you want, has a unique vibe, and works, if you made some changes here and there. That's what better designers do, like the good folks here, some of whom are available for hire. Good luck! https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/forum/15-seeking-services/

The old carpenter/builder that reared me explained that "it tells a story." So there ya have it!

Strip it and zip it if you need some actual help, because without it we're just guessing like you.

I find the story pole needs a lot of tweaking to get it to look how I want, and is sorely in need of more snaps!

Wow, not much leeway between min and max!

That's what I do. I have a lot of generic construction details in my template plan, in multiple CAD Details, and yes edit and send to layout as needed.

Ok. It's going to be very difficult for a novice, nearly impossible to explain the particular steps needed in a post, and too time consuming for me to do it for you. You're just going to have to get more familiar with the manual roof tools, or hire someone to do it (unless someone here volunteers to do it for you). Study up on the manual roof tools: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00441/creating-hip-and-gable-roofs-manually.html https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/category/34/roofs.html

First off, I'm not clear on what exactly the problem is. Are you unsure of how this roof should be built? Or are you just unable to accomplish what you want using the software? I don't usually like to give my design opinion, but the main roof should really be a hip roof. Looking at your problem from a practical construction standpoint, trying to make it gable and integrate those returns is going to be really tough, and look like shi-ite anyway. Auto roofs does a pretty good job if you make the main roof hip. I just turned on auto roofs and switched the upper level end gable walls to the hip setting: Sargent_auto_saveCB.plan Adjusting the footprint can help with balancing the roof planes, but I would 100% make this a hip roof.