Chrisb222

Can you make the bottom rail wide enough to extend over the opening to get rid of the carpet? That's how I would build it anyway, with an upturned casing on the wall underneath for a skirt

I do. Auto attic walls have to be moved, deleted, added, extended, shortened, fixed all the time

I agree. Furniture doesn't show up when under an Open To Below room either. It does in 3D (obviously) but not in plan view. I don't know, I've never been able to see anything below except stairs. If it's not an option to display all objects beneath an Open To Below room, it should be.

+1 I vote to increase the beer budget by 300% Draft please

Hey, I resemble that remark!

The new dimension default upgrades are YUUUGE I tell ya At least for me, big time savers on every plan

Thanks Funny, I was just gonna ask yesterday for multiple saved automatic exterior dimension defaults Looking forward to this upgrade!

I would only ever sheath the heels if I had a crazy high heel like 24" that would be exposed and need to be covered with the exterior finish.... which rarely happens here. Trusses are made to the sheathing, which is the same as the foundation. And the floor framing. All the same dimension.

Not me. We always use 7/16" sheathing and plans are dimensioned as the exterior wall being 4" or 6" That 1/16th is never gonna be an issue As a builder who (used to) frames and a plan designer, I would never introduce 1/8s or heaven forbid 1/16s into a set of plans. Holy crap, what an unnecessary PIA! Whole inch on foundation plans, with 1/2" being smallest fraction on framing plans.... 1/4" ONLY when absolutely unavoidable, and avoid those whenever possible!

Walls, Hatching is a stock layer that you should be able to turn off Maybe you're trying to select the hatching. I have to tab past the wall selection to get to the hatching

I drew a Room Divider inside the porch on the left, moved it to 1" from the common wall, called the room Slab and turned off Invisible Walls layer. I left the Room Name visible so you could see where it is Quick and easy, but it does throw off the automatic porch dimensions by 1" CBporchenclosure.plan

That's what I do. But just to elaborate, position the first view how you want it on the sheet, then copy that layout view. Go to the other sheet, and use Paste/Hold Position to paste the previous view exactly where it is on the previous sheet. Then, open that view and change the floor and/or the Saved Plan View or Current Default Set.

Select foundation Room, open spec and go to Structure tab Do this for every room in the foundation You can also select the individual wall in 3D or elevation, drag down using drag-tab, enter 4" and repeat for each wall

Use alt or control key, whatever it is on PC to drag them into place in plan view. Command key on Mac Might have to make them shorter then drag out to the side walls

Okay this conversation has revealed some obscure techniques, thank you to all for sharing It just reinforces my desire, though, to have Fill settings on ALDO so we can control line and fill colors independently, on a per-layer basis Made a Suggestion about it a while back which included Arrows but Fill would be much more useful for me:

Larry, after seeing your suggestion I learned there are a lot more places to set fill defaults, my reply wasn't right, but those other settings aren't very obvious. Ah Chief, always more to learn I posted that because I never knew how to select the sill plate, and that's the only way I know to make it green in plan view Maybe there's a way to do that too, besides my method....

You can specify a default fill but it's adopted by all framing members Use green to get the sill plate then change the other members manually

Turn off whatever layers you don't want to see. Might want to create a new dedicated layer set first. Making large changes to a layer set can bite you if you need those particular settings for other views.

Played around with it more, looks like the shape of the CAD line doesn't matter as much as where it's placed. I could not make the edited member conform to a shaped CAD line unless it was laid over the other members like in my earlier pics, but any CAD line placed over the other members produces the same result. So the edited member is adopting its shape from the adjoining members not the CAD line. Oh well I'm glad for the tip from @LevisL anyway.

Nope. Just did it again. Definitely trimming and extending to any shape CAD line Even tried it with Circle and it trimmed, but did not follow the arc

Cool! Yep that works, thanks I could not find any information on how to edit truss members, except using the join and miter buttons. The help files were woefully silent on it

I found this thread looking for tips on editing truss members and thought I'd update the information here It's actually very easy to edit chords and webs using CAD lines which do not need to be 90° angles or even straight-- multi-segment lines work too See examples, I was actually surprised but very pleased this worked: Resulting trimmed web member: Just placing this here for future seekers

SSA is worth it to me simply for the ability to share 3D models, if I never got an upgrade. And really, for myself upgrades are fun but they also require work, and sometimes a change in how I do things, which diminishes the benefits slightly. Especially if the new features don't fit or improve my process. Sometimes I'd rather plug along with what I know rather than read all the update notes, migrate all my stuff, and learn the new ropes. I do, and feel it's a net gain, but it doesn't come free of cost ... in more ways than just dollars. I'm a small design/builder, and sharing 3D models really sets me apart around here.

I'm just amazed that a 12' 2x4 is allowed to support a floor and a roof under any circumstances! Kinda puts the MIN in "code minimum"

Higher DPI = smaller physical size, same data and file size 100 DPI (dots, or pixels per inch) @ 10" HIGH or 1000 DPI @ 1" HIGH Both are 1000 pixels high, same file size, same quality