joey_martin

Do the math and use the transform/replicate tool to do an an exact rotation of the polyline.

From experience..... You current work flow needs to change, honestly. I don't mean to sound harsh, but I have been exactly where you are, and it simply doesn't work. I/we had a pretty long meeting (couple hours) and hatched out what we NEEDED in our templates, and what we WANTED in our templates, and came to middle ground that we could all live with and work comfortably with. We picked a common font and came up with layer sets (that we're all pretty similar) and now have a template that we can all share seamlessly when working on projects together. Take the time to hash it out and you will all be better in the end.

NOOOOOO!!! Don't make a CAD detail from your elevations. You lose the ability to easily update those elevations when making a change. You need a layer set to send with your vector views to layout.

Don't use walls to define those piers....save yourself the headache and just used a solid with the brick material applied.

It has to do with how far you have the "reach" set, and those windows and doors become interior to the located exterior walls. I always leave porches to dimension during my final cleanup and fix and simply drag the auto dim out to reach it.

Like this?

Use the shelf tool and simply set the height to the top of the stem wall, size accordingly. Also, in those situations consider furring out the upper wall to match the bottom. That provide a cleaner look when you can do that.

You need a layer set for that, and make sure the CAD lines have the box checked to have the layer determine the color.

Yep. Something wrong I am missing?

Drag and drop into your plan. Save it from there.

Turn the color on.

When using the reverse plan tool pay attention to your elevations as well. It will flip the cameras. I prefer to use EDIT>EDIT AREA>ALL FLOORS and flip it along the center of the plan. Keeps the elevations intact.

I bet he is using the floor overview camera and it's set to floor 2.

Make your rafter out of a solid if you absolutely need to 3D model that situation, though a CAD detail and note should work.

Build your wall layers exactly like the product. Don't over think it. NOTE: The 1/16" layer I use just as the ZIP outer layer showing the material, and it gives me the 1/2" sheeting layer.

Pretty quick and easy to do with poilysolids while in elevation view.

You will need to build custom cabinets for those, unless someone jumps here with a method make it work.

I have carried forward my template for many versions. I spend a morning every version updating to make sure I am taking advantage of new features, but I honestly can't tell you how many versions my template has come forward.

Boom! That was it, I knew I was going crazy. Well,at least about this...... Thanks @JacobB

Didn't shutters follow the shape of the mulled unit in the past?

Just a pony wall below. All the brick should line up all the way down. EDIT: re-read...you will need a pony wall on the first floor as well for the wainscot of brick.

You sure he doesn't just need something like this?

You move on and see if it corrects itself. At the very least, when you complete your final cleanup you simply pull that little section back.

At first, quick glance, I would have used a wall cabinet and placed it on the the WALLS, NORMAL layer. I may also try to cut and manipulate the wall itself, but not sure if that works well with a side cut.

As Ryan says, the problem is with the room above, you're looking in the wrong place to fix the problem.