Is There A Way To Trim/extend P/solids In Elevation View?

[HumbleChief]

[Richard_Morrison]

I don't know how much faster it is, but you could do a CAD detail from view, and create a series of polyline rectangles using the CAD tools (Trim & extend), copy those back onto the elevation, and turn them all into polyline solids in one operation.

 

I thought you might be able to do this directly on the elevation, but for some reason, trim/extend operations only work there with a maximum of one line selected. Not sure why this is; maybe a bug.

[HumbleChief]

Whoa that's a great idea Richard. I've come across 2 jobs, one an as built that had a hundred 1 x's I needed to place manually and his job where I want the same look. Tedious.

 

I'll try your idea.

 

Trim cuts the ends off the boxes making them a 3 sided box with an open end. Even the box in CAD detail can't be turned into a P-Line Solid or at least I couldn't find the familiar icon to do so.

 

You know what would REALLY like is to create true 3D textures, like a real borad anf batten that could be applied to a wall. Or in this case a real 3D texture with 1x's spaced as needed then applied to a wall surface. Dreaming.

[chief58]

Larry just a thought if you draw a pline solid in elevation where you want to extend the other pline solid will they extend, inother works will a pline solid cut and trim to another pline solid, not a my computer with Chief but just a thought, I know if you want to trim or extend a rafter you have to extend to another rafter 

[HumbleChief]

Didn't work Ray - thanks.

[Richard_Morrison]

Pline solids can't be created in a CAD detail. That's why I suggested you copy them back to the elevation view. While you are in a CAD detail, you will need to select all the verticals, then click between them to cut the line. Or maybe you just copy a short line forming the end.

[glennw]

Larry,

 

If you zoom in close, you can grab them by the centre top grip and drag up and snap them to the temp line.

But, it means one at a time!

[glennw]

You know what would REALLY like is to create true 3D textures, like a real borad anf batten that could be applied to a wall. Or in this case a real 3D texture with 1x's spaced as needed then applied to a wall surface. Dreaming.

 

 

Larry,

 

I am pretty sure that you can do this with a 3D moulding.

I remember a while back I needed to do something like that and used a 3D moulding built up with solid shapes spaced with shapes with No Material for the spaces.

If that works, you would still have the problem that they won't trim to the roof.

[Joe_Carrick]

1. Use Solid addition to add them all together

2. Add another PSolid along the Line you want to Trim

3. Use Solid Subtraction to Subtract that from the one created in step 1

[Alaskan_Son]

1. Use Solid addition to add them all together

2. Add another PSolid along the Line you want to Trim

3. Use Solid Subtraction to Subtract that from the one created in step 1

Pretty much exactly what I would do as well...solids and Boolean operations.

[Alaskan_Son]

Here is my second attempt at making crappy videos.  Sorry I still have no good microphone set up.  I'll try to get on board with that soon.  A few notes...

 

-Being that there's no sound...I tried not to use any hotkeys or shortcuts so that you could more easily see what I was doing with my mouse pointer.

 

-I used Richards method of creating a CAD detail from view.  Its not necessary to do that step, however I found it easier for snapping purposes.

 

-I didn't spend a lot of time getting everything perfect.  Just enough time to give the basic idea.

 

http://screencast.com/t/bwuIwUyCv

[glennw]

Larry,

 

How about this for a different angle to the problem.

Forget about polysolids and build them all automatically!

I just had a play and it seems to work.

Wouldn't it be nice to have a bottom and top plate if you want (for fixing the verticals to), the tops of individual pieces splayed to match the roof pitch, shaped to roof or shape it how you want, etc, etc.

 

Basically it uses a wall with one layer - the framing layer and no finish layers. 

I guess you can work the details out from there.

There are heaps of options to get things the shapes and sizes that you want. 

Set up the framing defaults to suit what you want.

Build the framing for that wall and then define it as Retain Wall Framing. 

You can then change the framing defaults to build other framing as needed.

 

You can even place openings in the woodwork by using a temporary window, build framing, and then delete the window. 

You can edit the framing in plan, 3D or the Wall Detail.  

 

This is one I drew up in a couple of minutes just to see how it would go.

[HumbleChief]

You guys are great. Nice video Michael and great tips. I've got one more gable in the rear of the house I'll try another technique there. Thanks very much for the help.

[DRAWZILLA]

The easiest thing would be to have a board and batt texture. There are some fake ones around that look ok, but not real.

[johnny]

How about:

 

1. Make primitive boxes for batts

2. Make trim version primitive to match eave angle

3. Rotate trim primitive to angle desired (eave)

4. copy

5. Trim batts while pasting (hold position) to bring back the trim primitive

 

I just tried it and works fast.

[Kbird1]

Yes it would be nice to have real 3D Board and Batten Materials but until then Joe came up with a way last year using molding plines too

 

https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/1243-board-batt-siding-using-3e-moldings/?hl=%2Bboard+%2Band+%2Bbatten#entry9737

[Alaskan_Son]

How about:

 

1. Make primitive boxes for batts

2. Make trim version primitive to match eave angle

3. Rotate trim primitive to angle desired (eave)

4. copy

5. Trim batts while pasting (hold position) to bring back the trim primitive

 

I just tried it and works fast.

I for one don't quite follow. Maybe a few screenshots?

[Joe_Carrick]

So here's a different approach.  I made a closed polyline that is about the right size for 1x2 Batts on 1x10 Boards (but I only made the total thickness 1".  Then I converted it to a PSolid and set the height to 8' and converted that to a Solid.

 

It can be trimmed with other Solids using "Solid Subtraction.

 

I created an Architectural Block from it and added it to the Library.  To trim it you will need to un-Block but since it's 8' tall and about 17'-6" long it can cover a lot of area and be trimmed pretty easily.

Batt on Board.calibz

[glennw]

Larry,

 

When I posted my last message, I thought that the "battens" were what we call fretwork - spaced out from the wall.

It seems that they are really battens on the wall surface.

I still think it is easier to do it in the wall definition by adding a framing layer to the outside of the wall definition - this really gives you a 3D board and batten wall and still leaves plenty of scope for customisation and editing.

I will do a vid when I get time.

[HumbleChief]

Thanks as always Glenn. After reading your last post Glenn I see I didn't do it as you suggested with adding a framing layer to the outside of the wall definition.

 

I found when I did that, I think, the entire wall wants to frame @ (in this case) 4" O.C. Building a separate wall allowed that wall to be frame at 4" O.C. then that framing retained, and then that wall moved into position. Very slick.

 

[HumbleChief]

More musings...  

 

[dshall]

More musings...  

 

Interesting Larry, I believe you were creating board and batts with 1x1 stud framing layer. Clever.

[HumbleChief]

Didn't realize I was even creating board and batt but it's pretty flexible, and frustrating as all Chief adventures are.

 

I'm going to post something in the Tips Forum in case it helps someone.

 

[Kbird1]

Hi Larry , sorry I didn't look at the Videos , as Glenn's idea reminded me that a while back I made some new materials to use as Rainscreen Battens as they are Code here , and it occurred to me the same idea would work for these Battens, and perfectly for the Cedar B&B I have needed in the Past on several jobs , the only caveat is that you must have Wall, Framing on in all views and obviously build the wall framing, changing the number of top and bottom plates as needed, to make the Battens look right (pics) which may mess up cross sections but a few cross boxes will fix that issue for the wall framing top and bottom plates. 

 

Here is the Library I made , it has 6" ,8" and 10" OC Battens , once imported , add the appropriate one as the 1st (outer) layer of the wall , and build your framing and turn on the framing in each 3d view, they don't even look bad with shadows on.

 

Use the "Balloon through Ceiling Option" in the wall DBX on Gable walls to eliminate the Horizontal batten.

 

Cedar Battens.calibz

 

 

 

***Edit looks like we posted at the same time , and perhaps you got to the same place I did

 

****2017 Also see https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/topic/16852-board-and-batten-library/

 

M.

 

[HumbleChief]

That's really good looking Mick, nice work. I downloaded the textures - thanks. Does it frame OK around windows?

 

I'm going to post this technique in the tips sections, which I think is a little different than yours, but doesn't behave so well around windows/doors etc.