MarkMc

Even with left or righr arrow? Been a while since I had the X3 but don't recall that problem. I do remener that I had to upgrade firmware when I first got it, maybe that?

Did you try using up arrow to select the setting icon at top? OR just keep hitting the right arrow key which also switches on mine. User manual says you should have this

Using a 7500 but had an X3 and think that setting is the same. It is set first in the laser itself. Function, select the gears, , unit, first page first column shows what you are getting, second column is inches and franctions,..up arrow to get to second page 2nd page first column is metric, second column is decimal ft, in, yd. I use first page second column 0 1/8 unless it's really fussy then 1/16th, Chief will convert it to the format set in current dim default if you are sending it by bluetooth.

Not just the large OEMs, all of the smaller custom builders also have a selection RTX 3000 cards, availability of specific models varies a little from vendor to vendor in case that's your preferance. They then vary by cases etc.

Short answer is no. I haven't done any work on this as I don't personally need it, non of my clients are asking for it. If only one client wanted pricing I'd be doing it one of the ways I did my own when I was a kitchen dealer. For my work I used a schedule copied to a spread sheet. Either drag and drop from that to an online ordering system (15 minutes) OR if that was not available for the brand set up a spreadsheet template that was an order form. With a little manipulation data from the schedule is pasted into the the spreadsheet template populating all but globals, individual prices and number of doors. A typical order took me 15-30 minutes (stuff on doing that posted in either tips and tricks or symbols back around X10 maybe X9) I did also start looking into looking up pricing from a CSV once in the spreadsheet which is likely easier to do. (and adjust if needed) The perfect system, that would load price into a schedule, was just a good will project for I was messing with since people seem to think they need cabinet pricing and I wanted to try to put it out there. NOTE I was working with pricing into the schedule not the ML and yes I got that to work more or less. (NOTE that for me it was imperative to also price modifications, just cabinets is much easier). Just had to do some work with hashes/arrays to bring in pricing for modifications. Problem is that I'm not all that proficient with Ruby so if I leave it alone for long it's like starting over (bad case of halfheimers/CRS) The other problem is getting a full CSV file for a cabinet line. I approached several Mfg at KBIS with no success, even for a couple of my clients. Suggested that they look into it, never happened. As to using the material list for accessing a CSV; back when I first undertook this, end of X11 going into X12 I think, I was out at the user group that year. In the advanced class one of the Chief folks (Chirs Armstrong) showed something he had been working on with the material list to pull window pricing from a CSV. I sat down with him for my one on one to go over a few things. In the long run that turned out to have a problem too. The issue with that could be overcome by lowering -Preferences, Ruby, Safe level. That is something I was not going to deal with and then pass it on. I have not seen anything from Chief on this since. Between relocating, work, pandemic, a new version on the horizon and playing nurse Ratchet for the near future to missus with knee replacement this week I'm not going to get near it. Already have a lengthy "want to do" list that is more relevant for me. It's still on my list but way down there right now. IF I were serious about doing this for my own work and didn't want to spend forever (which I already have) doing it. I would either look into one on one training for it with Chief OR get in touch with Michael (Alaskan Son) who is a wiz with this stuff. In either case you will want to put together a very accurate and clear list of what you need for results.

With a little fiddling this works on anything at all so long as the edge you want to add molding to is straight. Select hood in plan, convert to symbol, cabinet door, change the Y origin. Place cabinet correct width and height of hood, depth of cabinet to be where you need the molding The sides and back as openings, seperations at 0" Find the CAD block for the hood and insert door and insert into plan view.

Just hadto send this link to someone else, has bead but note glaze.

I updated the plan file I posted over here for making cabinet door symbols Added a double and the parts, took 10-15 minutes. Once you have a small collection of wainscot panels and framing bead profiles doors are a snap.

Rob there is no worthwhile control over NKBA dims since they are supposed to match what the NKBA wants. I simply never use them. Instead I set up Default Sets to dimension only to desired things on a line. For instance- set to dimension to wall cabinets uses-layerset that only shows wall and tall cabinets , dimension default snaps to cabinets and casings having a proximity fixed to set dimension where I want set for base cabinets, layerset that only shows base, tall cabinets, and appliances, dimension default with different prox fixed etc. can set up centers for appliances. I also have sets for elevations Clicking drop down for dimension default and dragging a line, click for next and drag a line. A lot faster than clearing out little diamonds IMO.

Attached is a more recent version of my door maker template plan than the one(s) posted previously. I've done lots and lots... This is the fastest method I have found to date to make a series of doors for both glass and panel and drawers. This produces doors and drawers where the grain is always correct and will follow the plan default if done properly. If you like it save as a template for ease of use in the future and always save the finished plan when done for the future. I used to do the panels vertically but that takes a lot of nudging. Now I use custom countertops on the floor. It makes placing moldings properly a breeze and only adds one step when converting to a symbol. select counter top of the thickness you want add molding profile and locate it vertically and horizontally. convert that to a symbol- cabinet door, advanced options checked. In symbol DBX rotate on the x axis so it is vertical, Change name for edge bead and make material use plan defaults. Change name for panel but leave material as glass. Set stretch planes so that they do not affect the molding. Give it a name with prefix to denote it's a wainscot insert. Now a cabinet, framed. I have a couple placed here, the default cabinets for this plan are set to what you would want to use. In face configuration, place your wainscot insert as a "side panel inset" (DO NOT use the cabinet as inset and insert it as a door panel or you will get a reveal around the door,) Set your rails and stiles to your desired frame width. Convert to symbol, cabinet door, advanced options-name is with Glass or similar suffix. Same as before-see that materials are set to use plan default but leave the panel glass. Change names of items if desired. Now copy your door in the library. Open the copy, rename without glass and change panel material to use default. Copy that symbol in the library. Open, rename with Drawer suffix and go to options tab, select "treat as drawer front" Now the grain "should" correct itself when used as a drawer front. You may also want to copy the wainscot symbol and change the center panel to use default material-I keep those in a library folder of there own. Symbols are included, open them and check all the tabs. Open cabinets and check all the faces. Mitered doors can be made flat the same way. Applied moldings can also be done with this method. 1" thick doors are more of a challenge. The easiest way to deal with them is to set a stretch plan in the middle of the door depth. Place it in plan, increase depth to 1", convert to symbol, cabinet door BUT set the origin so that it is 3/4" from the face of the door. Similarly for cabinet doors set back in a frame change the origin so that it is closer to the face. Lastly doors with an outside edge profile (which are fortunately rare for me nowadays) need to be done differently. For those I make rails and stiles as cabinet door symbols; use a cabinet with 0" separations. First make the face side panel inset; split vertically, change the vertical separation to side panel inset, set width you want for your stile and use one of your vertical stile symbols (You will need one left and one right AND the symbols will look backwards in the library). Change the width of the opposite SPI to suit and specify you other vertical stile. Now split the center SPI and repeat the procedure using your top and bottom rail symbols setting the size. Lastly specify the center SPI to a wainscot symbol, convert to door symbol and set materials. Door maker w double.zip

Sides and back aren't too bad. Bottoms get challenging, drawers are easy. Plan attached showing 1/2" sides and back a few symbols included. Open symbol to see how originas and stretch zones are set, also open ALL sides of the cabinet box configurations. Bottom-if you specify it smaller than 3/4 you will get an extra line there. You can cheat the bottom using a custom symbol for a shelf. BUT in all of these shelves will not go all the way to the interior side unless you make a custom shelf with a locked width per each cabinet width. Personally for most of these situations, at least for frameless cabinets, I would just specify the desired thickness and put up with the extra lines. Then use a CAD detail from view to clean them up right in Chief-no need to go to ACAD. Framed cabinets I might do as the included (forgot to add the face frame at the bottom or top though Drawers- Just make a custom drawer with the box sides made the width you want. Jut be sure to set stretch planes of zones inside of the drawer sides. I've posted drawers and pull out inserts in the past if you do a search for them. Those should give you an idea how to set the symbols. Cabinet side thicknesses.zip

You can also just select that cabinet, hit tab, then delete.

I'm still in the middle of cleaning libraries as I switch machines and don't have those symbols imported yet. In the meantime I did dig up an old symbol plan where I had made some of these. Place a rope light desired length, increase the spacing of the lights. Make the profile what you will want since you that won't able to change later. Convert to symbol electric, light, rotate symbol. In library open object, light data panel. It will have only one light. Change to spot, show position in camera, set lumens between 100-200, change angle. Add light and move up from base. continue until you have as many as you want. It's tedious and usually I need to place in plan and fine tune there. LED plan.zip

I poste that already doen under 4MB for the better one, lesser one not quite as clear

That usually loses the floor or wall line or both. Since the OP is aking for what 2020 does a mask is closer.

I'm guessing that seeing inside the cabinet is what the issue for you is? You could cover it in elevation with a polyline with solid filler color of your choice. You can even add the line that is in 2020 iof you like. Could even keep one for base cabinets and one for wall cabinets in you library to just plop in there... You could clean up layout lines once sent to layout BUT do that just before printing because updates will bring the lines back... OR you could adjust to it happy knowing you don't have to deal with the crashes and other nonsense any more :)

Did that a month ago on a machine I donated to the church food pantry.

https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/p/dgn-to-dwg-converter/9ngf01rg22p0?activetab=pivot:overviewtab First one in web search

Thought I posted this early this am-must be ... I'd lean toward double walls which I've found easiest (for me) to deal with on stone houses. You can get the window small enough this is 12 x 15

Set railing specification, newels/balusters, plan display to only Draw Newels You could then just take a CAD detail from view, copy it and paste in place so you have something to snap to. Most accurate method. Alternate would be to manually break railing at center of each newel (this is by eye), reverse each wall in turn so they don't rejoin, pull a dimension line and adjust any minor discrepancy in wall length Go to foundation level, turn on reference display and adjust what shows, place post with footing

Not sure what you're after. Guessing it's an addition? in which case perhaps a 3D reference view with some creative layer settings. Here made the addition Glass house and referenced the as built set to standard. On the addition plan the first shows only walls and roof, second shows only attic walls and roof, third only attic walls.

Yeah, started doing that a while ago when doing kitchens when I kept all the likely options they had in mind. Now my clients are all repeaters so I keep a per client folder where current project folder lives then an archive per client. I like to set defaults that are likely to change from there since I hate rummaging the entire library. I keep the currently used client/project at the top of the tree. To do that I add 3 spaces to the front of the name. When switching to another project change what is at the top. Since I use per client templates and the defaults are set to this folder I always use 3 spaces to front so the software finds the folder ( and I can remember three :) Like you I use the user library as much as possible and some things in there go away after the job, others are saved to the client archive. In the process of moving machines so housecleaning 10 yrs of stuff as I can get to it.

I'm on 84.0.1. No idea what support is on. My windows is still on 1909

Then call support and tell them what to do to fix it for the rest of us (and them since they get it too)