MarkMc

Made from cabinets, plan attached. Just get it to correct sizes and put in doorway. Paneled arch.zip

Note this question belongs in Q & A. Tips is where you would post your tips and tricks. Change Y axis of symbol to recess, save to library. Optional to center it.

There are simply not enough users that want it. Gene's list applies to many more users and situations and I'd agree with him. When I was a dealer there were likely 2 dozen KDs within 1/2 hour of me. I would say that I did more of these than all of them combined, only a handful even did inset cabinets. Despite there being a decent market around here for beaded inset as there is a large number of very old homes. I first worked these out in X9. I had a large prospective project where the client was undecided on doorstyle but wanted beaded. They needed to see it in 3D with several door options and I always showed what would be inside the cabinets so wanted them working. This landed me the project and led to other projects. I eventually had to work out a second smaller set to work with schedules for a second suppliers requirements. I did plenty of these in wood. The graining on the beads while slight due to the size is accurate. Not sure what you mean by a door within a door. Sorry but for now you have to work it out with the info provided. The beads are door symbols. When I first did these I had less to go on and it had been deemed impossible by some advanced forum users. You have a head start with what I told you. The first time it took me a few days to work these out. At first I gave them away but I got too many contacts asking for more help; then some joker tried offering my plans without credit. I stopped the freebies. I'm retired now so it's my pin money; I sell 2 or 3 a year. I still invest a few hours each time: checking everything, adjusting when an update breaks the symbols, adding more instructions, included zoom instruction meeting and guaranteed follow up.

Figure it out yet? I use doors. Not too bad to do just one type of bead. If you use combined cabinets AND cabinet schedules to assist with ordering AND you need the cabinets called out individually it get a little more complicated. The easy way is I sell sets of plans. PM me if interested.

I watched the first video, I understand your system. Thanks but I'm covered. I mentioned I have plans for beaded insets cabinets with 1/4", 3/8, Elite Cove, Square and French Inset Beads. The beading is part of the cabinet any door can be used with them with a single click, usually globally. Picture below shows a plan of the 1/4" bead cabinets where I dropped new doors/drawers from my user library into them individually in a few minutes. Just doors, I'm set, have made every door symbol I used for more than a decade. Just for you Gene from my beaded inset. Line wts could maybe be better ( I ought to correct the right hand door bead but door swing is correct, 3D is correct and doors open with bead staying put. Note have the beads to mitered is not worth the trouble since you need an altered bounding box which is unreliable.

Well I didn't get it until the end of the video. I may still not get it but those don't look to be inset cabinets to me. What I see is a full overlay door with a framing bead around the panel and a second bead around the door. That can all be done from a countertop. Set both moldings as needed, one around the panel for a framing bead, a second one offset from the panel leaving an empty space as wide as the separations of symbol cabinet (the one you make the final door from) When you convert that to a cabinet door set the stretch planes OUTSIDE of the symbol to prevent it from resizing. Then a little math, offset the z axis to account for the one molding and the cabinet seperation. Check the final size of that door symbol (I call these the wainscot panels), adjust the cabinet size so that you wainscot to the framing bead inside the opening and you second outer bead will then fit around the wall cabinet. Then convert that to a door symbol, set stretch zones; adjust materials (I usually do that after symbol is in library) Plan attached with all the stages I have several sets of plans for that with different beads. Pretty complicated to make to begin with. Two beads.zip

If you don't need the door to operate you can just make it as a door and use it as a side panel inset. Stretch zones work for that, no change to bounding box.

Or set a tall cabinet to size, add a few to the library instead of using partitions.

Perhaps I don't understand what you are looking for so maybe provide an image. I can say is I have never needed to use the bounding box for a standard cabinet door symbol that was being used as a door. I mentioned that back around X6 several of us on the forum tried to create beaded frames just using a single door. We could make it work sometimes but gave up. If you are trying to add to the cabinet box face frame consider how it is built in real life. Below are a couple of variations on what I think you are after: a simple beaded inset side, beaded frame with standard opening, the double beads. All of these will resize correctly in any direction. To demonstrate that the cabinet door style is independent of the beading, which is part of the box faces; I dropped a door symbol from the library set to scope by plan.

To control the proportions as the size change you need to use stretch ZONES not the bounding box. Zones are set at two points, stretching will only happen between those points. Check in the help. A number of years agon several of us attempted to do beaded inset cabinets making the beads part of the door. We abandoned that as too many separate doors were needed. After a lot of work I eventually developed a system for beaded inset that works with any door. The beads are not part of the door symbol but become part of the cabinet. I sell those plans. I won't be replying to this for a bit, have to take my wife to cardiac rehab tomorrow.

Never mind, just realize that doesn't solve the schedule. Set one room type to unspecified, move the label you want to keep.

First I make the panel AND the framing beads as a door symbol starting with a countertop with moldings for the framing bead. Convert to cabinet door symbol, rotate during conversion (can also be used as a wainscot symbol for cabinet sides). I set the framing bead molding to the same material I will be using for the frames, I set the panel to something else so I can change it to glass if needed when finished. You could go use solids and molding lines but more work THEN For the frame use a framed wall cabinet with no top, back or sides full overlay. Set separations to suit. Then for the front place your wainscot symbol as a "side panel inset" (so there is no reveal around it, using an inset cabinet will give a reveal). If you set materials as shown above you will still be able to specify all to use the default in the final symbol. The grain will automatically be in the correct direction without copy or rename so you can set your new door to use the default material. Change to drawer as needed. I didn't check to see if still around but years ago and more than once I had posted a "door maker" plan.

You would normally put this in Q & A, we put tips we already have here. That said: You would edit it the same as any symbol in Chief. It helps in the long run if when you first import a symbol you change every material to a native chief material and if need be rename the item in the materials tab so you know what they are. 1-The simplest options to edit a symbol in chief are using the advanced sizing tab. Check the help to see what each setting will do and to learn about symbols. Often you need to save a version as a new symbol after making one set of size changes, then opening that to make different size changes. 2-The other option is to use the "delete surface" tool. This works best if you change the smoothing angle -open object, 3D tab, smoothing angle is at the bottom. I set it close to max which is 180 degrees. It is easier to use in a plan all by itself, I like vector view and have the camera with "clip surfaces" very small, no more than 1". You will need to rotate it to get at everything. I often will save as a new symbol during the process as a version, then open that and continue (a little less frustrating) 3- the last option would be add to a symbol. This is often better done with a room around it and using 3D AND plan and elevations views. If using solids changing the fill to easily identify you parts as you move then in place, transform replicate can help. You can change the material of a single part of a symbol by deleting all the rest, save as a symbol, then just delete that part from the original, save as symbol, then put them both back together. Example get rid of everything but the handles on an oven, convert to symbol. Undo all then delete the handles from the original, convert, place in new plan. Set new material for handles, place in plan and line up with the other symbol, convert.

Not exactly clear what you are after but is it any of these- first has constructions set to framed using 3/4" separation. Top separation has item reveal set to -1 makes the drawer head move up. Second the drawer head symbol has the bounding box spacing- top set to -2 which makes the drawerhead extend when no top separation is there.

Not at computer now. Cabinet framed, 3/4" separation, turn off auto build blind. Set cabinet reveal to 0, then increase where needed. If it won't let you use opening. Copy rename slab door. The rest should be ex.

Not a bug, pilot error. You need to rotate the symbol 90 degrees on Z axis. Yours looks like this You want something like this. With stretch set to this. NOTE if you want to size both top and bottom you will need to do that in 2 generations of symbol. First change size of bottom, add to library, change stretch zones to the top section and resize.

Did you bother to try a Style Palette or just assume you knew all that they could do? You can make it to change the type of window. I was away so just tested to make sure my memory was not gone. Select a double hung window, make a new Style Palette, Open the settings, clear all, select type (you may also want to select the schedule type and glass). Then if you want add that library item to your toolbar though I just keep SPs in the library in specific folders. NOTE- Also IF you had the default window set as awning and you want to change ALL of those to double hung you can do that by changing the default.

This belongs in Q&A section. Style pallets work well for spraying.

This is in X17, add version and hardware to your signature please. In short used pony walls for shower enclosure so makes a room. Draw ceiling plan, manipulate the slope and locate where you want it. Easier if you give it a fill with no background. Filled in the side wall with a solid, also has a fill. Not exactly clear what you are after from the two pics you posted since don't exactly match each other. Tile.zip

Well Jim's idea is about the easiest. The alternative needs custom door symbols with a Y offset to use as toe kick but really why. Charles yes many makers offer "combined" cabinets up to a certain size, or sometimes cabinets are built in the field with face frames made in the shop. I've done lots of combined ... but in this case I would not do that. It looks as if the OP is using 3/4 inset and that looks to be 114" long. That is larger than most makers would do as a single cabinet, if they did the center section is going to be week. My installers would have a fit IF I could talk the maker into doing it. I would do a combined I have used a drawer with a recessed frame so as not to show. Then a panel for the back, determine how that panel gets attached with the installer.

Easiest method is to use a countertop with molding (baseboard) for sides. Plan attached (in X16 since you didn't say) for you to work with. Once you have it sized how you want it convert to a symbol (on right in plan), then use that symbol for drawer where needed. I' also a 2020 refugee, left in 2010. BTW fix your signature to include version and hardware, helps in the long run. Also using all caps is considered yelling. plumbing drawer.zip

I learned how to make most things in Chief. On occasion for a drafting client, when the Mfg had the items available in Revit, I would use that. First time used a trial version for free. After would activate it for a month of use which was inexpensive enough.

Change separation to a blank area, then make narrower to the size of your reveal

The Y origin of the symbol controls that, then update the block. OTOH how do you see this being dealt with IRL, in the field? None of the cabinets would have a finished back as standard. The DW need both water and electric and this island needs outlets to meet code. Just leave it to the KD to sort out? At the very least I would put a panel across the entire back of the island. In most cases if i'd frame a short wall back there to make mechanicals and installation easier. Of course then you have to cover the ends of that wall.

An alternative would be - split opening vertical, change item types and sizes split horizontal, change items types and sizes No need to change indicators though it takes a bit longer the first time but leaves a lot more control to alter if using in the future. Even faster just using the attached Style Palette. I used a renamed slab to make adjustments easier. Framed Opening Style Palette.calibz