MarkMc

I'm guessing that seeing inside the cabinet is what the issue for you is? You could cover it in elevation with a polyline with solid filler color of your choice. You can even add the line that is in 2020 iof you like. Could even keep one for base cabinets and one for wall cabinets in you library to just plop in there... You could clean up layout lines once sent to layout BUT do that just before printing because updates will bring the lines back... OR you could adjust to it happy knowing you don't have to deal with the crashes and other nonsense any more :)

Did that a month ago on a machine I donated to the church food pantry.

https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/p/dgn-to-dwg-converter/9ngf01rg22p0?activetab=pivot:overviewtab First one in web search

Thought I posted this early this am-must be ... I'd lean toward double walls which I've found easiest (for me) to deal with on stone houses. You can get the window small enough this is 12 x 15

Set railing specification, newels/balusters, plan display to only Draw Newels You could then just take a CAD detail from view, copy it and paste in place so you have something to snap to. Most accurate method. Alternate would be to manually break railing at center of each newel (this is by eye), reverse each wall in turn so they don't rejoin, pull a dimension line and adjust any minor discrepancy in wall length Go to foundation level, turn on reference display and adjust what shows, place post with footing

Not sure what you're after. Guessing it's an addition? in which case perhaps a 3D reference view with some creative layer settings. Here made the addition Glass house and referenced the as built set to standard. On the addition plan the first shows only walls and roof, second shows only attic walls and roof, third only attic walls.

Yeah, started doing that a while ago when doing kitchens when I kept all the likely options they had in mind. Now my clients are all repeaters so I keep a per client folder where current project folder lives then an archive per client. I like to set defaults that are likely to change from there since I hate rummaging the entire library. I keep the currently used client/project at the top of the tree. To do that I add 3 spaces to the front of the name. When switching to another project change what is at the top. Since I use per client templates and the defaults are set to this folder I always use 3 spaces to front so the software finds the folder ( and I can remember three :) Like you I use the user library as much as possible and some things in there go away after the job, others are saved to the client archive. In the process of moving machines so housecleaning 10 yrs of stuff as I can get to it.

I'm on 84.0.1. No idea what support is on. My windows is still on 1909

Then call support and tell them what to do to fix it for the rest of us (and them since they get it too)

Go ahead and download one with firefox today...It is coming in with an extension of .zip. Double click a dot zip file in windows and it opens as in windows explorer not into Chief. Can't use import library from within Chief for it either. Was on the phone with support and they are aware of it and told me to use other browser. I have a couple of hundred libraries downloaded and all are calibz, only two downloaded today came as .zip. I just checked and changing the extension does work though, as noted had another issue with caching.

Right now if you download a library using Firefox it comes in as a zip file instead of calibz. I tried changing the extension and that did not solve the problem as near as we could tell (but there was another issue so maybe it did) anyway, use Edge or Chrome until they tell us this is fixed.

For folks not following the theoretical discussion here are visuals of real life readings using Chief with a 2.3 GHz (Max Turbo Frequency 5.1 GHz) processor. Simplified-look at the right hand column. Utilization-processor show s how much each thread on the CPU is used. Clocks shows the spead each core has reached during the processes done. Middle column- when shows 0% it means I reset the view to show ONLY what was used in the described process, the plan file was already open. All settings for it are OOB other than Windows power profile set to performance with processor set to 100% min and max when plugged in. Only Chief is open on the computer.The plan for the first 3 is just the shell and interior only 7 MB file. The next two are working with an 18MB file, complete structure. The last one is running an OOB Interior Ray trace for 10 or 11 passes. The the processor is running at the minimum MHz and all cores are pegged at 100% the entire time. What I get from this is using OOB settings on machine-A Chief manages to use most cores and threads often; B- during general work in chief- the processor runs most of the time above the minimum clock speed but rarely reaches full turbo boost; C- The only time the processor runs at minimum speed is during CPU based Raytracing when all cores run at 100% until done (on this processor anyway) I think Rich hit it right off. It's great that Chief has come forward with as much advice here as they have AND offers that we can call and check with them about what we are considering. I agree it's worth waiting to see what X13 brings but my hunch form what I have seen is that it may actually perform in some ways better than 12. FWIW I had talked with a few developers at IBS last year and again over the summer before I got this laptop. Both times I was told was to get an RTX card. Also the they had bought RTX 2070 cards for the developers on the rendering team which lets you know what they were working with for most of the time until this fall. If I were getting a desktop to use for the next 5 yrs (which may be) I would wait to see where things falls after the 11th generation Intel CPU is out. Then both AMD and Intel will have PCIE4 which may not be big now but matters in the long run IMO... and we will have seen both the new AMD and NVidia cards in use for a bit. Then I'd decide. .. for today-top end i7; 32GB Ram clock to match processor; RTX3070; fastest NVMe I can afford; MOBO w/PCIE4, USB-c 3.2 & Thunderbolt 4.

Hold the Command key (Ctrl on windows)

Image is default behavior with rough set to 1/2" each side which is OOB. Does what you are asking for.

FWIW most of my drafting clients don't care and prefer the appliance just drops in.

Often I hack the symbol down to just the front and convert to a door symbol, size to sit properly and have the correct opening. EZ to turn off to show openongs but still moves with the cabinet without blocking.

I did not watch the video so can't say as to that. First you have the cabinet set to have a door, pullouts go into drawers. IF you did place a pullout on the door it would stay on the back of the door when the door opened and not pullout. It could be placed as a rollout in the shelf tab but this one doesn't open like a rollout when selected from the RAS library. Second and most important-somehow your symbol has been defined as "Inserts into Counterrop". The one from the library does not so either you imported it or changed the symbol options. So- define as drawer , then specify the drawer box Left to right- yours, attached to back of a door, defined as rollout in shelf tab, drawer with defined as drawer box

The porch is defined as a deck.

This came up the other day and @CherylD asked me about it. Thought it might be useful for others. I generally do not do videos, this is no exception. IF someone else wants to be my guest. I did include notes in each cabinet to give you an idea. If unfamiliar with adjusting symbols look in the help or reference manual for custom symbols, stretch planes and zones. When I was learning this stuff I kept a print out of all relevant pages from the reference manual handy. There can be a lot of trial and error when working with symbols. Even if you are not a dyslexic as I am it can be difficult to remember you need a plus or a minus, challenging to tell how much offsets are needed AND note that when making symbols that are offset to one side of the other the program is dyslexic too!! What looks like a symbol you would place on the left will actually work better on the right. As always open every object and inspect every setting in the DBX. Open every symbol and do the same. IMO it's a very good way to get a handle on these. YMMV So for your non listening pleasure here are an assortment of methods to place an oven flush to the doors of a cabinet. They all consider that someone actually has to build the cabinet in some reasonable fashion. That means the the depth of the actual appliances door matters as to which works. Honestly I never do this unless I am using an appliance that is specifically designed for it like a Wolf or Sub Zero THOSE ARE DONE DIFFERENTLY than these. I do sometimes/often put a frame around an oven. I also often will bother to make the opening correct though that can be done faster in a CAD detail so it depends on how much of a whiner you want to be. Note for cabinet #3 where only door symbols are added to the left and right of the oven- those work best designated as "Door Panel" and do not appear to work properly if they are designated as "side panel applied" Below are some views of what is noted in the comments of cabinet #4, followed by a zipped plan file. Flush Ovens.zip

Not sure why you want a hole? The electricians I deal with want centers. Can make a light symbol that has depth, fits into the ceiling and works. Quickie attached. IF for some reason you need to show the holes instead you could use a detail from view and paste it in place. Just make the CAD block for the symbol the size of the hole instead of the size of the fixture. Can light.calibz

Copy the material and change the angle of it.

notebookreview is for forums by brand and model, notebookcheck is for reviews with comparisons. 2070 super or Max Q-a 2080 Max Q will perform about the same as a 2070 Super but- less power so less heat but they tend to be thinner machines with a little less cooling ability. Max Q costs more most of the time. i7-is fine IMO -9 likely better? but not sure worth the cost. No 11th gens and no RTX 3000s till next year sometime. May or may not be worth the wait but really looking at 4-6 months for that to shake out. M2-make and model makes a difference. Keyboard-depends on brand, my 15" has all the same keys as my older 17 just a tad smaller keys. I use extra monitors and keyboard at desk but like to have full keyboard on the road. For steady full time use and long term life of a laptop upgrade thermal paste, consider pads. Get it re-pasted after a year or so sort of like getting oil changes. I don't do it myself, local guy cleans and pastes for $60-80 but Note that I get machines that can be easily opened and serviced.

Good luck with it-I liked HID too. Since you got the Max_Q I'd love to compare performance and thermals sometime in Februrary or March after the release of X13 and you've had it up and running for a while. If that's ok I'll PM you then?

Yeah can be a challenge. I see you read the other thread which should give you some idea overall. One thing between brands is what they don't tell you-what brand drive, RAM, screen brand, except for Asus and MSI it can be a challenge to find out what the MOBO is. A good place to get some comparison of machines is www.notebookcheck.net. You can also wade through info on specific models by brand at www.notebookreview.com forums. Now most of the folks posting over there are gamers so a lot does not apply or sounds like a foreign language. I just look for issues, in particular thermal performance or general problems like screens. Good places to shop and talk to sales (in the states at least) are HIDevolution, XoticPC and a few others that carry multiple brands AND does service themselves. I've bought from both of those and been happy. Unfortunately they will not know much about if anything about Chief. It helps if you have some idea what your needs are in CA and see where that gets you. There is also how you use the machine? I need it to do everything and anything all day every day. I also want a machine that will perform for 4-5 yrs which affects my thinking on budget. (My 9-1/2 yr old Sager/Clevo is still running the office)

Wall defaults, room divider, wall type, set thickness to 0.01 It will still read as "0" Correction Alaskan_son says NOT to set in default but make a new wall ype see here