MarkMc

No offense but that basic so - Open the cabinet DBX and hit the F1 key or click help. First check the whole page, then if you haven't seen the answer click on the hyperlink that looks the most promising (hint will be named for what you want to know)

This is not the full viewer that opens a plan file, this is on the web. On a computer nothing needs to be downloaded it opens in a browser-example here On a phone or tablet yes they need to download the free viewer. Michael- Adobe Reader can open 3D PDF and included views, bit fussy to navigate IMO but it works.

No not for a 3D PDF. Open the file I posted and navigate the views to see the differance

I did a few a while back, sample attached. Export from a 3D view; don't remember file type likely dae or 3ds? textures don't matter as 3D pdf won't bring them in. Then opened that in TurboCad and used a plugin for that to get the final 3D PDF which I then annotated in Bluebeam. Not worth the trouble, I don't bother nowadays. Export to Chief 3D viewer file is simpler, faster and does a lot of what a 3D PDF will do except : notes need to be added prior to export and can't dimensions in 3D. Then again a couple of detail drawings on a flat pdf suffice maybe with a 3D view or two and easier for other to mark up if needed. Just my 2 cents. 30 Micro 3D.pdf

Done in Chief- mulled door and fixed panels all set at single height, then mulled window (default level 0), then tabbed into fixed panel to increase height , then other panel. Other settings explode to check dbx- framing rough set to 0, minimum separation to 0 And you can show it open at no extra charge

FWIW if you do much rendering X13 will supposedly be supporting RTX video cards. Would bust your budget though. I tested a 1TB external M2 on usb-c ($150). Small plan is slightly slower to load, barely noticeable. Big plan was noticeable but ok, though I didn't do extensive tests/comparison to working off the C drive. Read speed on external drive is max 1050 Mb/sec, IRL transfering lots of files runs about half that. For referance my C drive is max 3500 mb/s. Only tested plan files.

Left is a cabinet, right is symbol set to insert into wall made from cabinet. Just used strap hinges from library. If you want something better then need to make the hinges. If you want them to open properly need to make the part on the door separate from the part on the casing. There are other ways, this took a few minutes. Shed Door.plan

Take a look at intellect from chaossoftware.com. You'll want to look at it's "Activity series" and possibly "projects". I've used it for over a decade. When I had a lot of scheduling, which often had to be adjusted, I found it easier than Project Management software. Worth a look, trial available, support good by email, price reasonable. Time & Chaos is the same without email.

Have done it often, most often in small kitchens. There are plenty of situations where the net storage is greater killing the corner, as when it allows for a decent size drawer base for pots. Just a matter of doing the math for sq inches of shelf/drawer space. Cleats at wall for counter support of course. Im no help on the OPs question since I use save as (happily)

But the cabinet is set to have 0" left and right. Yeah this could be easier if... but it's doable. Way back I did some web meetings and there may be videos of them but I don't really recommend them as the meetings got a bit convoluted despite my best efforts. I'd ask for variable reveals several times years ago but there was zero support for that so I gave up. It would also be swell if reveals worked the way one would specify them to a mfg. -in relation to the overall cabinet box or to adjacent frame items. They only sort of do. Trying to sort out how they are programmed is how I fell into this solution though Changing reference to top or bottom is easy enough with a click. The molding I used for the light rail, a hand rail since I don't have my molding library installed yet, started set to the top. Sometimes the reference manual has info not in help but they have gotten much closer to each other over the years. The videos might have more but I rarely watch them and never for cabinets

The left and right separations need to be adjusted in many cases be sure to check the DBX. I found a simpler method that does not require a custom door. I was trying to create an example (and figure out for myself) showing the logic to how the program is thinking here. Failed at that but this option occurred to me and works. Attached is plan using Traditional overlay (not full as before) As before you have the option of auto-building the light rail or not-both examples are in the plan. Frameless Raised Bottom.plan

Sorry, answered this a while ago and went back to work but guess I failed to actually post-duh. Plan attached with updated door symbol in it on the floor. Offset Z axis to 1.375 as on original -you have 1 5/16 which is a change? BEFORE converting to symbol door was set to 37 7/8 high, then the Z dimensions is locked-strech plane set outside the symbol so it does nothing. This is where you ran into trouble. So if you need other size doors you will need another custom door-easy enough to do on the fly. (also might want to look around for stuff I posted on making cabinet doors in tips or symbols-some time ago. I make them from wall cabinets) overlaplightrail updated door.plan

I don't like how they the rope lights work in PBR to begin with. I change the spacing, type and output to my satisfaction. Once converted I put a few in the library (on old computer right now) I've found that just having a few sizes works for me and they can be adjusted within reason (6 inches or so, bit more if shortening) It may matter to that I don't ever use just tape, instead exclusively Hafele Loox 12 volt already in channels. Customers love it, holds up better than tape and keeps installers happy AND I can connect to it-YMMV. Forgot that it also goes into the schedule the way I want-as Hafele Loox 2029 or 2037 with part numbers.

I space lights how and levels to what I like, then convert to symbol, electric light. Can get a way with altering the size of the symbols a bit before the lights don't look right. Once converted to an electric symbol light connections work.

I did that out of habit since I use molding lines instead of placing in the cabinet DBX. Using a separate molding line allows for a clean gable at the ends by adjusting the exposed side. The other method with molding as part of the cabinet can be done by just using the adjusted door, shortening the cabinet and raise it. revised attached. IOW the opening at the bottom is only needed if it makes schedules work better. The way this look is usually ordered is more like the method using the molding line BUT depending on manufacturer there may not be a rail at the bottom back unless it's a finished gable end (annoying when they do it that way, messy to fix) overlap light rail 2.plan

Dragged out the new laptop which doesn't have old files or user library yet. Plan attached. Read your specs, think this is close-door set to 1/8" shorter than cabinet, Z axis offest 1.375", cabinet set as framed 3/4" which matches frameless construction but allows more adjustment. Bottom opening placed as 1.25", cabinet sides adjusted to have opening at bottom. light rail added as molding. overlap light rail.plan

I got all the time from demi- cudtom- not box store brands but other semi Showplace, Mountaineer, Cabico, Elmwood, Luxor, .. others. Make a custom door symbol offset on z axis to overlap that extra 1/8", might have to set reveals to 0 and add blank areas where you need reveal, or might have to add reveal amount to the offset. Might need to lock height? Not at computer to check but have had doors extend 3/4 down. Just don't remember details but doable.

The main thing on a laptop is to make sure that Chief is using your nvidia card. Open Nvidia control panel, manage 3 d settings, add, navigate to chief architect exe. Go down the list if you like, most settings I use either lete the program decide or high performance.

yeah 1-1/2 oops

No need to play with shelves unless you want to change the finish of the bottom. Change box construction to framed, full overlay, 3/4" separation, change bottom separation to 1/12" minimum (it's what I spec all the time)

I only use CAD like that for as built so I never change it. For variations consider using referance display showing other pla(s)

Check the active cad layer that you are pasting to is displayed? Only reason that might not work. OR if you imported a dwg and it is on multiple layers? Personally I use "reference display" for that. Place dwg (CAD) on defined layer and use a layerset that only shows that layer. There are advantages to using separate plan with nothing else there but the CAD. Have that plan open, then open the plan you want to work on. Turn on reference display, then "change floor/reference" to show the plan and layerset with the CAD. As long as the CAD is not blocked you can snap to that now but will not change any of it from the plan you are working in.

I most often bring dwg into a cad detail but I also have a point set at 0,0 in my templates and set the bottom left corner of the building there. It helps if bringing in dwg from architect which I do a lot. You can add it at any time though. "Input Point"

You have to trace it. I like to convert to DWG with another progam to trace so I can snap to it. Bring it into a CAD detail, check the size, set all to a layer, copy, paste hold position in plan, unblock or you can't snap, lock the layer. Nothing will snap to a PDF. Lot of folks convert the PDF to an image file (png or jpg) and trace that. NOTE- lock the layer that the pdf, png, or dwg is on.

Don't need to use a psolid. Help, search, image....I use backdrops placed outside windows often.