MarkMc

I convert PDFs plan views to DWG always. Currently I use Print2CAD, use to have PDF2CAD and wish I still did though I get consistently good results from each, depending on what is supplied of course. I've tried a few freebies and only on line once- it's been worth it for me to own one, BUT I ALWAYS trace over the plan, never CAD to walls. I prefer DWG to PDF since: I can snap to it, easier to scale if needed can turn off unnecessary layers (or delete) uses fewer resources The only time I convert elevations is if I need dimensions not provided or something where I want to snap to. I do have Bluebeam which sort of measures to PDFs but not as quickly.

I target 5yrs on a new machine. Looks like that was a decent computer when you got it but 7 yrs is a bit. Along with the availability of GPUs (which stinks- may change, may not) I'd be getting a new machine. Here is Chiefs blog on system requirements. The desktop in my signature from a custom builder was $3k delivered. I just configured something with only slightly less than mine for a client at $2500 and worked out a second choice of a nice machine with a B560 board, 3060 Ti, i5 10600 at under $2100. There are some pre-builts for a little less. Few specific pointers- Don't worry about PCIE 4, it makes no real world difference for what we do in Chief (not much in games either-big deal in video editing) B But do get a good M2 drive for the C drive. I went for a hi end Z490 board for the ports and thermals. I have not researched the B560 boards, the Z590 boards carry a premium. ON pre-builts you they are often not listed or proprietary. Can't tell you much about AMD chips, I considered them and nixed the idea for a few reasons but they are doing fine overall. Not sure it saves much. Both Intel and AMD are changing CPU chipsets and sockets next time out so anything you get this year will not allow for a future CPU upgrade without a new MOBO. Pretty much means a new machine for most folks. Then again if the plan is 5 yrs that doesn't matter much. (But Kbird just had an older machine rebuilt to save some parts :) Finally here is article comparing Pre-built machines to custom-it mostly covers AMD but the principals will carry through. I used AVA Direct for mine and am very happy. I looked at every custom builder out there but then I'm really fussy about parts and cases. Prices of all are competitive to each other. Be sure to talk with a human if you go that way.

What David said

That has to do with the "locate objects" tab in your dimension default. It looks like your dims may be locating moldings? And there appear to be a number of point markers there. If you did not use a pt to pt or otherwise place them they could have gotten there by altering/or deleting a cabinet with a dimension string already in place-or sometimes copy and pasting a cabinet. FWIW I use manual dims for cabinets most of the time. I use default sets to tie the dims to layersets. Dimensions won't snap to something that is not showing so the layer set hides what I don't want in the view but the dimensions all go to the same layer. Below is the list of Default sets and the Dim Cab Wall Elev in use. Click select set, hotkey drag dim, click next set, drag, go back to the Cab All set prior to saving view. It's likely worth spending some time checking how "locate objects" behaves, might also look into "proximity fixed" under the extensions tab. Proximity fixed determines where the dimension line is placed, while it can be finicky it's very useful and underused feature. (note once prox fixed is set in the default string placement can only be changed selecting dimension #1 in extensions tab) I would not spend a lot of time setting this all up until after we see what they are doing in X13 as there is something in the works. https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/10239/automatic-dimensions-configuring-for-exteriors-what-s-coming-next.html?playlist=171

Is it in a plan view? or a plot line view? IF it's a live view either set "update always" or update on demand, then you won't be able to. Otherwise post an example of layout with plan OR screen shots showing dialog box

Nope but for the framing showing if you make the railing solid instead of panel it allows for the wall niche tool to be used BUT the wall cap then goes on top of the glass so needs to be deleted and a Psolid or counter added and heights adjusted. Niche 2.plan

View, angle snap grid; is the only way I can make that happen

Don't remove frame, just shorten it . Attached a few options with different wall definitions. Only one is has a furred wall added. Check all the tabs in the window DBX (frame, sash, framing in particular). Don't know what your exterior condition looks like so can't really answer that. There is no exterior casing on these currently but something has to be done there, depends on what your "exterior sill as CMU looks like" Could get tricky once that is added. Framing rough is set to 0 on these but sides have a gap since 0 there is not realistic. window stuff.plan

The drawer is placed as a shelf, rollout in the bottom opening. (OPEN the cabinet DBX and check everything) For a step you would just make symbol, type fixutre interior) of a box with a top.

It's likely to have: some changes you want, some you don't, some you dont think they should have bothered but use anyway (and some not), something that thrills and at least one to drive you mad, something that never occurred to you, something borrowed, something.... It always does and always saves time. I use it every day. At less than $2/day the decision is easier than what to have for lunch. I stay on SSA, it's in the operating budget; cheaper than the d$++:& phone.

Cameras (and computers) are not always smart, sometimes they don't realize that they went to another room. I do that all the time but that's a different problem

lightingissue2.plan

IF you use a door with a different name you can make it a different material. To do that with a double door cabinet it needs to be split so that it is two doors. This is actually a little easier for sliding doors than hinged. (IF you make them look right) To make them look like sliding doors I made two door symbols each with different origins and used them as "side panel inset" For the second you need a custom door symbol that inserts to look like a partition. To make it so that it can have different materials follow the steps shown on the plan, eventually converting to a solid and then exploding it (you can start with a solid I just find it easier to do Psolids since I have a shortcut key for that-and habit) After exploding assign different materials to faces. There is more about doing that on the forum, often when discussing grain direction on angled framing members. Sliding doors and colors.plan Edit to add partition symbol. Be sure to "open symbol" to check settings on that and the doors in plan. Partition.calibz

If it could have previously been opened on another svreen that's not present? Then try preferences, general panel, save dialog position and size, change to never might work. Otherwise no idea.

Above a half wall will do that b

The upload limit changed to 2MB, at least that's what it said yesterday

Attached is file with an adjusted camera,sun, and light set. NO it is not attached, Looks like they have changed the file size limit to 2MB (was wondering why you couldn't attach it?0 Sending back to you by email. The rest is here for anyone with same issue in the future. I set generic sun then turned it down, I started with it at 100 then moved up. Also changed the postion temporarily since I like to know where it is and if it's working. Can adjust later as you see fit. Slight adjustment to rendering technique. Then I named the room so I could identify the lights and made a new light set, turned on all the lights in the room. The only change to lights themselves was to make the right table lamp match the left one (changed from spot to point) I would most likely change at some lights total and some from point to spot, turn some shadows OFF, move the sun depending. This should get you going.

Did you update the view after changing to plot line? Plot lines are usually the crispest.

Without a plan guess would be turn sun on BUT turn it down, way down.

I don't have one of those but the horizontal scroll on mine only works with scrollbars showing and then I have to click the bottom scrollbar first. I don't use it much as easier otherwise as you note.

Glasses. For years I've worn 35mm (blueprint) trifocals and had a pair of single vision computer glasses. I almost never used the single vision since switching to read paper was such a pain. Recently got a pair of 35mm bifocals set for reading at the bottom and computer at the top. Has made a big difference, less eye and neck strain. The only downside is they work so well that I often get up and start out of the room with them on and don't realize I can't see distance properly until I walk into the door jamb

Dropbox version history may help.

The EZ Level are used with cabinets with standard toe kick, hole for adjuster is covered with toe board.

Depending I've done this 3 ways Order cabinets with no sub-base and build sub-base on site. Most often I've done this when the floor is way out or the flooring is very irregular (think rough cut slate slabs that no one should walk on :) Cut strips of Ply 2-3" wide, layout those out to match the cabinet sides and back. Level those with shims, on cement I PL the shims down and pin the ply to them; on wood just pin it all. Be sure to include trim for exposed ends (DAMHIKT). I've used this often with large format tile or if floor is off by 1/2" or more. Use EZ Levels (link). They give you 1-1/4" height adjustment so you might need to combine with #2. The cabinets can be ganged together and leveled as a group. I first used these when we had to for a large office complex where they wanted the ability to change things around later, then for a few difficult to level corner situations. I've had installers ask me to include them.