MarkMc

NO. Possible if you jump through a lot of hoops but would only show in 3D, the 2D will be incorrect. More importantly that is NOT a scribe, it supports the dado where the back panel inserts. 1- too small, 2- if that is trimmed the cabinet will sit skewed to the wall Always order scribe molding- at least 2 lengths for a kitchen. more installers can safely work with that. IF it is important in real life you want "side extended back" if the cabinet maker offers that and you have a very talented installer. I've done that in Chief when it was really really important but complicated. Makes more sense to just use a filler, note and CAD if needed.

Yes, if need be. For something like this it's faster and easier than playing with macros. OTOH I have a number of Style Palettes for cabinets I use often with the mods already listed. Those usually list all of the likely mods for a cabinet, such as having each side listed as flush finished. I just delete unwanted mods. The system saves typing and configuring the cabinet. I also have some mod codes (per maker) in a list I can copy.

I was going to try again to work out the Ruby for this but realized the reason I never needed it. Instead of doing weird things to the cabinet I draw that normally but call it out in an OIP field that I use for any and all modificatons. I always have that field in the cabinet schedule so EZ.

Need to hack that with custom symbols. You can show open as attached. IF you also want to show it closed you will need to set up a second layer for this cabinet (and a layerset) then force a closed cabinet directly over it using a second layerset. Open in one layerset, a second layerset to show the closed cabinet. You have to also put the folded doors on a special layer to be able to turn them off. I just turned off the fixtures interior for this. Folding pocket doors can be done the in a similar way but more complicated Bifold door.plan

I know how to get something for the size into the properties by cheating. Set Left Separation to 0; the split the face, cleaned up the junk until I could have a single element (in this case side panel inset) of the width wanted, reset the reveal. That will show this in the properties. BUT I don't remember the macro needed to get the 3in and would be have to search more text than I want so someone else needed for that.

Nope, when you turn them off they will all go away. I keep them off always but set up keyboard shortcuts for each- FB base, FW wall, FT tall. The tool stays activated so you can just go around clicking for them to place, they will size automatically up to 3" OR you can add as needed or go around

Had a though and found that by changing the top and bottom separations to side panel inset slabs the extra semi circle goes away eliminating the need to use delete surface tool. Note if changing height you have to do that before changing out the separations or it goes away when shortening the height.

Made from cabinets, plan attached. Just get it to correct sizes and put in doorway. Paneled arch.zip

Note this question belongs in Q & A. Tips is where you would post your tips and tricks. Change Y axis of symbol to recess, save to library. Optional to center it.

There are simply not enough users that want it. Gene's list applies to many more users and situations and I'd agree with him. When I was a dealer there were likely 2 dozen KDs within 1/2 hour of me. I would say that I did more of these than all of them combined, only a handful even did inset cabinets. Despite there being a decent market around here for beaded inset as there is a large number of very old homes. I first worked these out in X9. I had a large prospective project where the client was undecided on doorstyle but wanted beaded. They needed to see it in 3D with several door options and I always showed what would be inside the cabinets so wanted them working. This landed me the project and led to other projects. I eventually had to work out a second smaller set to work with schedules for a second suppliers requirements. I did plenty of these in wood. The graining on the beads while slight due to the size is accurate. Not sure what you mean by a door within a door. Sorry but for now you have to work it out with the info provided. The beads are door symbols. When I first did these I had less to go on and it had been deemed impossible by some advanced forum users. You have a head start with what I told you. The first time it took me a few days to work these out. At first I gave them away but I got too many contacts asking for more help; then some joker tried offering my plans without credit. I stopped the freebies. I'm retired now so it's my pin money; I sell 2 or 3 a year. I still invest a few hours each time: checking everything, adjusting when an update breaks the symbols, adding more instructions, included zoom instruction meeting and guaranteed follow up.

Figure it out yet? I use doors. Not too bad to do just one type of bead. If you use combined cabinets AND cabinet schedules to assist with ordering AND you need the cabinets called out individually it get a little more complicated. The easy way is I sell sets of plans. PM me if interested.

I watched the first video, I understand your system. Thanks but I'm covered. I mentioned I have plans for beaded insets cabinets with 1/4", 3/8, Elite Cove, Square and French Inset Beads. The beading is part of the cabinet any door can be used with them with a single click, usually globally. Picture below shows a plan of the 1/4" bead cabinets where I dropped new doors/drawers from my user library into them individually in a few minutes. Just doors, I'm set, have made every door symbol I used for more than a decade. Just for you Gene from my beaded inset. Line wts could maybe be better ( I ought to correct the right hand door bead but door swing is correct, 3D is correct and doors open with bead staying put. Note have the beads to mitered is not worth the trouble since you need an altered bounding box which is unreliable.

Well I didn't get it until the end of the video. I may still not get it but those don't look to be inset cabinets to me. What I see is a full overlay door with a framing bead around the panel and a second bead around the door. That can all be done from a countertop. Set both moldings as needed, one around the panel for a framing bead, a second one offset from the panel leaving an empty space as wide as the separations of symbol cabinet (the one you make the final door from) When you convert that to a cabinet door set the stretch planes OUTSIDE of the symbol to prevent it from resizing. Then a little math, offset the z axis to account for the one molding and the cabinet seperation. Check the final size of that door symbol (I call these the wainscot panels), adjust the cabinet size so that you wainscot to the framing bead inside the opening and you second outer bead will then fit around the wall cabinet. Then convert that to a door symbol, set stretch zones; adjust materials (I usually do that after symbol is in library) Plan attached with all the stages I have several sets of plans for that with different beads. Pretty complicated to make to begin with. Two beads.zip

If you don't need the door to operate you can just make it as a door and use it as a side panel inset. Stretch zones work for that, no change to bounding box.

Or set a tall cabinet to size, add a few to the library instead of using partitions.

Perhaps I don't understand what you are looking for so maybe provide an image. I can say is I have never needed to use the bounding box for a standard cabinet door symbol that was being used as a door. I mentioned that back around X6 several of us on the forum tried to create beaded frames just using a single door. We could make it work sometimes but gave up. If you are trying to add to the cabinet box face frame consider how it is built in real life. Below are a couple of variations on what I think you are after: a simple beaded inset side, beaded frame with standard opening, the double beads. All of these will resize correctly in any direction. To demonstrate that the cabinet door style is independent of the beading, which is part of the box faces; I dropped a door symbol from the library set to scope by plan.

To control the proportions as the size change you need to use stretch ZONES not the bounding box. Zones are set at two points, stretching will only happen between those points. Check in the help. A number of years agon several of us attempted to do beaded inset cabinets making the beads part of the door. We abandoned that as too many separate doors were needed. After a lot of work I eventually developed a system for beaded inset that works with any door. The beads are not part of the door symbol but become part of the cabinet. I sell those plans. I won't be replying to this for a bit, have to take my wife to cardiac rehab tomorrow.

Never mind, just realize that doesn't solve the schedule. Set one room type to unspecified, move the label you want to keep.

First I make the panel AND the framing beads as a door symbol starting with a countertop with moldings for the framing bead. Convert to cabinet door symbol, rotate during conversion (can also be used as a wainscot symbol for cabinet sides). I set the framing bead molding to the same material I will be using for the frames, I set the panel to something else so I can change it to glass if needed when finished. You could go use solids and molding lines but more work THEN For the frame use a framed wall cabinet with no top, back or sides full overlay. Set separations to suit. Then for the front place your wainscot symbol as a "side panel inset" (so there is no reveal around it, using an inset cabinet will give a reveal). If you set materials as shown above you will still be able to specify all to use the default in the final symbol. The grain will automatically be in the correct direction without copy or rename so you can set your new door to use the default material. Change to drawer as needed. I didn't check to see if still around but years ago and more than once I had posted a "door maker" plan.

You would normally put this in Q & A, we put tips we already have here. That said: You would edit it the same as any symbol in Chief. It helps in the long run if when you first import a symbol you change every material to a native chief material and if need be rename the item in the materials tab so you know what they are. 1-The simplest options to edit a symbol in chief are using the advanced sizing tab. Check the help to see what each setting will do and to learn about symbols. Often you need to save a version as a new symbol after making one set of size changes, then opening that to make different size changes. 2-The other option is to use the "delete surface" tool. This works best if you change the smoothing angle -open object, 3D tab, smoothing angle is at the bottom. I set it close to max which is 180 degrees. It is easier to use in a plan all by itself, I like vector view and have the camera with "clip surfaces" very small, no more than 1". You will need to rotate it to get at everything. I often will save as a new symbol during the process as a version, then open that and continue (a little less frustrating) 3- the last option would be add to a symbol. This is often better done with a room around it and using 3D AND plan and elevations views. If using solids changing the fill to easily identify you parts as you move then in place, transform replicate can help. You can change the material of a single part of a symbol by deleting all the rest, save as a symbol, then just delete that part from the original, save as symbol, then put them both back together. Example get rid of everything but the handles on an oven, convert to symbol. Undo all then delete the handles from the original, convert, place in new plan. Set new material for handles, place in plan and line up with the other symbol, convert.

Not exactly clear what you are after but is it any of these- first has constructions set to framed using 3/4" separation. Top separation has item reveal set to -1 makes the drawer head move up. Second the drawer head symbol has the bounding box spacing- top set to -2 which makes the drawerhead extend when no top separation is there.

Not at computer now. Cabinet framed, 3/4" separation, turn off auto build blind. Set cabinet reveal to 0, then increase where needed. If it won't let you use opening. Copy rename slab door. The rest should be ex.

Not a bug, pilot error. You need to rotate the symbol 90 degrees on Z axis. Yours looks like this You want something like this. With stretch set to this. NOTE if you want to size both top and bottom you will need to do that in 2 generations of symbol. First change size of bottom, add to library, change stretch zones to the top section and resize.

Did you bother to try a Style Palette or just assume you knew all that they could do? You can make it to change the type of window. I was away so just tested to make sure my memory was not gone. Select a double hung window, make a new Style Palette, Open the settings, clear all, select type (you may also want to select the schedule type and glass). Then if you want add that library item to your toolbar though I just keep SPs in the library in specific folders. NOTE- Also IF you had the default window set as awning and you want to change ALL of those to double hung you can do that by changing the default.

This belongs in Q&A section. Style pallets work well for spraying.