MarkMc

(Please fill out your signature with version, some computer info helps along the way-there are posts detailing this.) Yes by setting default label to "specify label" From there it depends on which version of Chief you are using. Once setting to specify label you need to have a nomenclature identifier, Like B for base, followed by a dimension macro set to the tolerance you want. This gets tricky when that nomenclature changes - like to 3DB. IF in X14 or above look for information on "number formatter: in the forum to see how to write a dimension macro. There are a couple of folks on the forum who sell a cabinet label macro that can account for "some" nomenclature. You could look into that- likely not expensive. BUT FWIW what is out there would not work for any of the brands of cabinet that I worked with. So find out what setting they offer for that before getting into it. There are ways to shortcut some of the process using with a library of user configured cabinets with correct starting nomenclature for each. That can be used with the "replace from library" tool or with style palettes -both of which are separate topics.

Split the front vertically. Add the shelves to the side with the opening. First set number of shelves, then distance between. Last set the bottom shelf distance from previous to match the bottom right side distance.

Converted a cabinet door to a molding, had to mess around a little with repeat distance and height was odd. curved wainscot.zip

OK got rid of it. I was hesitant at first anyway.

I have 2020 v9.1 (or 9 ??) Exe file and dongle but supposedly can't sell it ? Haven't used it since 2011/12. Even have a compatible copy of Envisioneer 7 or so. I prefer Chief.

I used a system where ALL of the information for any brand was contained in library objects (now style pallettes). This included methods to include details. That all ends up in a schedule. It can also automatically show up in a selected plan view. The schedule gets copied and pasted into a spread sheet. A little sheet manipulation then allows every: cabinet code, mod code, sides, hinging...whatever is needed to be placed directly into an on line ordering system. Most of the systems I came across allowed that information to be drag and dropped into it. It never took a full day, rarely 4 hours for a big job. Lot of modest kitchen orders were done in an hour or two including checking. With some though you could likely figure it out from that. OTOH... I can teach it to you and set it up to start (or completely per brand and advise for a while). Not free. I am away until August 8th. In Seattle tomorrow then no contact till the 8th. If you are interested email me or PM before by the time I am back. I intended to write up a booklet (not video but may include a little) with this and some of my other stuff but life gets in the way. Maybe get it done a little after IBS if you want to wait for the cheap way out. Edit- I should add that I also used part of this method to write orders for brands that did NOT have an online system but needed a printed order. The only difference was I had to put in prices. I may have a very old vid of placing order on line laying around somewhere. Consistently used this with QCCI, Mountaineer (basically Rich Maid codes, a lot like CWP),& Showplace. ...a few orders with both Luxor & Elmwood.

Try place a standard wall cabinet, add 3" (or more) to the depth & width change to corner cabinet/diagonal Place in corner Now place wall cabinets on each side.

Height is easier than width. (sorry I don't do vids) What I've found as fastes/simplest is to make the symbol a cabinet door. Place in back of the cabinet as a side panel inset. You will have to resize the back section to match the front IF the front changs. For width there is not good way around having multiple symbols BUT...I make them with a specific number of dividers and spacing. Then allow the left and right side to change to fit. Make the symbol from a cabinet and save the plan. It's the fastest way to make the symbol and allows you to change # of dividers, divider width and spacing. Offset the y axis by .3/4". Set a stretch ZONE for height the total height of the symbol. Set 2 stretch planes for width. One 1/2 for left edge, one 1/2" from right edge. That will allow you about 3-4" of width change per # off dividers (depending on how crazy you want to be. You could always make a new symbol) It's also possible to make only one door symbol the split the back section. (more: control, difficult, time). If you want to get tricky can use a combination of a single divider as a door and a multiple with set spacing. YMMV NOTE- these will NOT change depth. For cabinet depth make new symbol either using the original plan (easiest, fastest) or placing a symbol in plan, adjusting, then converting. Something similar can be done making a fixture symbol for a shelf. Managing materials can get tricky (don't use default or it will match your toilets) First set shelf spacing to previous as 0", close shelf DBX, re-open, select shelf you want, click ok when it says won't fit resize? Resizing height on that section requires redoing the shelf selection all over again but the back does not to be redone. Here is a run of assorted size cabinets. Dividers are 3/8 wide w/4" between. I'd say it works ok from 24-30". NOTE that IF you set the width to resize equally the spacing will resize BUT the dividers will also!!

I had a plan view that used a default set- custom counters, counter dimensions, counter text. Had that as a page in at the end of the layout using a different page template than the reast (set to 8-1/2 x 11). Printed that page seperately. To create the custom counter top start by selecting a base cabinet run in the standard kitchen plan, adjust as needed, then another. Oh BTW I set all cabinet front overhand to what I wanted but sides and back to 0". Select one end of the counter and click the temp dimension the "+ some number" Island overhangs done the same way. Once all are good open the counter PV- do dimensions and notes. Done. What is the issue you are running into that is not efficient?

Change defautls. Dimension defaults Cabinet Defaults, Number Style Result You could also change the label to work if need be

I did try that first prior to posting. This is what you get Maybe find you can find the time.... I could be wrong. Does not save any steps either.

In library select the door symbol, duplicate. Open the duplicate to the 3D tab, change name I used "Door Z". Rotate along the z axis 180 degrees. You now have a reversed symbol. After placing in plan open object, at bottom of general tab, options reverse interior/exterior. IF you need the texture to reverse then make a second texture. First mirror you image in a photo program, bring it in and make new texture. These were done that way

Read about macros in Ruby as noted earlier. You will want to learn to use Text Macro Management- Select a cabinet, open TM, look at object properites. That will show what you can use in formulas. Please fill out your signature with version using, computer info can help us when you are having issues.

Read either help or the Reference Manual about "Components List" and likely Macros/Ruby in Chief. To just get the volume you would just use W x H x D . That could be put in a sub category or in the comment field in Object Information Panel (OIP) I suggest you will be better served talking with your cabinet supplier first. Here is a chart of just a few assorted cabinets showing list prices and at the far right the price per cu. ft. A quick glance shows the issue In the past I've posted some information on using schedules copied to a spreadsheet to get cabinet pricing. If I were doing that today I'd have an assortment of style palettes in the library for cabinets that included a price in a custom OIP field.

Just be aware that this kind of method only will get you an approximation. Many KDs use a linear foot price for guestimating cabinet pricing we called that the "price for the kitchen nobody buys". I ran into a more complicated method used by SEN dealers that was more accurate but I can't remember and would not attempt to get it into a ML. (FWIW when I was a KD and dealer, I refused to use guestimates and simply would price the job with options.) Here is what a ML formula for volume would look like. This a a tad high perhaps for base but fairly close for wall cabinets for one brand that I used. It does not account for variations in door style (0 to 25% increase or often a per door charge) or wood species (0-35%), or finish (0 -30% increase). or variations in construction (traditional OL is less, inset usually more)

It depends on what/why you need in Chief. Blum supplies them with parts that would be ordered if building Legraboxes. Instructions would be at the Blum website IF you are ordering parts AND building them yourself. OTOH IF I wanted Legrabox used in cabinets I was ordering I would simply specify that and let the maker deal with parts. IF I wanted open drawers to look correct in 3D then I'd likely make a symbol that may or may not use the Blum parts. I would bother to offset that symbol with the correct clearances based on information on Blum site. I personally don't see a reason to do that. NOTE that the glides in the catalog do NOT function (open and close) in 3D but I can't think of a reason to want that.

I think that the extras are because the same material is used by an object in the user library. In my case those often are using a material I copied to there.

Good idea to check this every now and then. Purge what is there not in use, merge duplicates (I usually replace if after merging)

I use Proximity Fixed to do this. The distance is set in inches so you have to adjust for scale used in layout. Form some dimensions, such as those shown above, I use it in conjunction with a Default Set that changes both the layerset and the dimension default BUT puts all the dimensions on the same layer (unless I need something else)

@rgardner Yeah. That occurred to me but I've been using that for over 45 yrs from when I was SPFX Modlemaker; not about to give it up. (was Rene even in high school then? :)))

Yes there is. But it is not simple. Be a nice learning experience if you want to go down the rabbit hole. First make a door. Draw pline the size you want (or the size minus the molding width). #1 img Set the angle for the molding at the top #1 Place a guide line at center, split the topt line. #2 Make each section of the top a curve #2 I started with a final size so used concentric mode to resize it. #3 Convert pline to a a counter and add moldings. Note this is a lot easier if you have the exact molding drawn. I just grabbed some thing laying around. Now convert that to a cabinet door symbol. Since this was made in plan it has to be rotated along the X axis to get it vertical. Then I altered the bounding box to sit at the bottom of the top curves. Then I set the stretch plane above the height of the symbol so that it will not resize. 4 Double check the Y origin to make sure it is at the back of the door symbol. IF not move it. I never remeber which way Chief will use these, left or right. The first one I made was backwards. So dropped it in plan, opened, "reflect geometry" save as a new cabinet door symbol. Set bounding box and stretch plane. That would take care of the doors at the bottom. You would then have to make a door panel for the top. Which is much harder. I'd likely make that as a single door panel for the front and another to use on each side. Might even make that in a new plan, copy the first on. First thing would be to take an elevation of the cabinet, then a detail from view for that. In the detail delete some lines you don't nee. Then get all the line of the top curves to join up by clicking them one at a time until you have the full curve. There may be a way to make the shape of the top as a solid with flat surfaces, then explode it, the find a way to add moldings...but I'm done for now. Good luck. Copy and paste in place in the elevation, convert to a 3D molding line and apply a molding. convert to a door symbol doing all as before. Then make straight sides. Will need to do some adjustment at the corners. Likely the easiest way would be to place the doors in plan and start moving them until the corners were sufficient. Will never be perfect. Did this with the doors I just made, flipping one over for the side..

You mentioned Perspective Crop, is that what you are using? May be the issue? ChiefArchitectPremierX14ReferenceManual-ConsiderationsforLegacyFiles 1. Perspective Crop Mode In Chief Architect X8 through X11, Perspective Crop Mode allowed older functionality governing zooming in cameras from Version X7 and prior to be preserved in saved cameras in legacy plans migrated forward. This deprecated tool has been removed from the program’s menu and toolbars in Version X12, although it can be migrated with legacy toolbars and hotkeys. Saved cameras in legacy plans with this behavior enabled may become distorted if you pan or zoom in the view. To permanently disable this behavior in a camera view and resolve the resulting distortion, select Window> Fill Window or press the F6 key.

Used mouse with Orbit on, tried dolly using mouse, tried pan with mouse scroll to zoom. All the same. Think it might be something elsewhere in the plan? Here's the test plan Mirror.zip

A quick test in just a single room structure does not show the issue. PTP

Well, maybe. I hack the library ones to be able to alter materials using delete surface tool which I mentioned the last time RAS came up. NOTE if you need trash pails without a lid that show open top- many can't be done with delete surface. Use the "Single Bottom Mount Rev-A-Motion" ones. Make one pail then adjust and reuse as needed. I set RAS items to NOT resize. They come in specific sizes, make those. Stretch Planes. When I needed to learn about stretch planes and zones I printed out the pages from the PDF Reference Manual (or can use Help but I like having the page numbers). There are two sections bookmarked in the PDF : "Editing Symbol Objects", and "Symbol Object Specification Dialogs"; total of 20 pages to print. I played with a few symbols in a new plan to see what different settings did. Then kept the half dozen or so most important pages handy. NOTE: Be sure to use generate block if you had to rotate the symbol with the 3D panel in the DBX After a while I needed to learn more about bounding boxes so used those pages and played again as they are a bit trickier. Between reading and playing around it likely takes about... To understand Stretch planes- 1- 2 hours but getting proficient will be over time using them. IMO this is the single most useful thing to learn about symbols. 2 hours to learn delete surface (start setting the smoothing angle very high -at least over 90 and up to 170). Mistakes are a bit frustrating at first. Eventually can do a RAS symbol in minutes. Bounding boxes (more advanced give that a while.) 2 hrs