MarkMc

In current versions- since X13 easy.

Don't need X16 this has worked for years. Box Construction, Full Overlay. Set the bottom separation equal to depth desired + 3/4" (in this case 2") and do NOT alter the reveal from default

Made this up. I used a textured glass so it shows. Adjust as needed. This has both doors as a single symbol. If you want handles of some sort add them to the symbol. The rest gets complicated, more advanced than I did here if you want to change more. What follows involves altering origins, advanced sizing stretch planes and/or bounding boxes. Some is already done on the included door symbol. Open that to get an idea- then go read up on symbols. Doors can be made as two different ones that overlap on top of each other. Then you can add hardware to the cabinet BUT you will need two different hardware symbols to sit properly. If you want to show them open then you have to make a symbol for that which is offset and has the width locked. If the cabinet construction is other than shown then more changes. If need bigger can be done but figure out how it's built first !! A cabinet can't be done that actually works in Chief. I don't think it worth using funny walls and sliding doors as started below but YMMV ;-> Glass slider cab.zip

@GeneDavis"Side Panel CRP 10" is a wainscott panel -i.e center panel with framing bead included- that I use for one brands door (a CRP 10) For every brand I have ever used I make my own doors instead of what they have. For myself IF were a Wellborn dealer I would have made a wainscot panel for the door and another for the doors. IF I needed an outside edge profile for the door I make that as part of the wainscott panel. I use counters for that, as shown in the thread that DBCooper linked to. For the outside profile just add another molding that is offset by the width of the rails and stiles. Hard part is getting the advanced sizing, bounding box offset and stretch planes correct. For some reason (at least in X15 but may have changed) often also need to change the z origin. Starts out looking a bit odd too. Slapped this together faster than finding an old one.

I do it this way- plan attached. If you change door style then change the seperation size. I always include the framing bead in the wainscot panel I use to make these. Easy to change rails and styles, framing beads, locations number of panels. Should have mentioned that once converted to a symbol which I didn't do here you can also change stretch planes and zones. multi panel door.zip

@GeneDavis Pretty sure you already know that I was a dealer, what you have to say about all those jobs getting done is nothing new. I just took the OP at what they said: "best way to get the cabinet information out of Cheif Architect and to the Cabinet Manufacturer." Similar questions have been asked on here by cabinet dealers in the past. I've run into plenty of design build outfits that get themselves set up with a cabinet manufacturer, was doing drawings for one for a while, so would not be surprised. OTOH if it were "too custom" it would likely be easier and not need an answer.

@GeneDavis that will work for how and where you get your cabinets, it should also be fine working with a small custom or local small builder and some of the Amish makers. OTH if you are ordering cabinets from almost any brand manufacturer typically carried by Kitchen Dealerships, almost every cabinet catalog in Chief, that will not be acceptable. They require an order that uses their nomenclature and format. A few higher end places are willing to have staff input an order based on that kind of info, one or two lesser brands will do it for an additional fee. You are still left to check their codes, which are unlikely to match the CA default, against what you have written to make sure you will get what you wanted. If you get the wrong thing it's your problem. Note that while some brands require drawings; in ALL cases what is written on the order takes precedence and none will accept responsibility for what the drawings show. The written order takes precedence always!! Yeah Chief will never be 2020, but doesn't mean a KD using those brands needs it (not all support it anyway) I'm proof, I got rid of it when I got X3 and ordered plenty of kitchens doing what I described. That turns out to be faster and more reliable (matches what I have in Chief) than hand writing orders or manually inputting from scratch into and online system.

Just allows use of commas for other purposes which I've found important. I know that. I've found that is not an issue the way I set up the custom fields, in part because it is easier to delete information in a few clicks than to type it. The mods are the longest and as a rule all of the other custom fields I put in can be accomodated easily. No have not, not sure what the advantage is please explain what and how? Do you mean it can make a spreadsheet template faster than manually? Does not take long to make one and can be altered for a different brand. I'm not sure that it would be easier to feed in all the rules needed but then I have absolutely no idea having never talked with AI It wouldn't take me all that long since I've done it enough. A tip that can help- DO NOT go down the hole of trying to automate everything. Some things are just not worth the effort compared with an occasional use in a year- easier to just type. Such as when writing macros for labels don't try to write one that does everything in a brand. (had one for one brand that did most and was set to do wall, base and tall. Took forever and was eventually broken by an update) It's A- not worth the time, B- harder to adapt to another brands nomenclature. Rather write something simple that does basics of what changes per cabinets and suits just the most common base, another for wall, another for tall. Use those in the default. Oh and almost forgot- need a custom field for the label and set the default cabinet labels to read from that field. Then as you go along add special cabinets to library as SPs with the custom fields in them. Only worth making maybe a dozen per brand (you can always copy and paste one from old plan if not in library). Those SPs can be used on a cabinet to adjust another brand. Well, at least for the adventurous

This answer may or may not make you happy. In short you can, but it's not simple in most cases. This may be totally inadequate for you current skill level but it's what I can do for now. At least to let you know it can be done. I'd been getting everything needed for Mfg out of Chief for since around X6 until I retired last year for a variety of cabinet brands from basic to full custom. Getting the information- Depends in part on how you have the information there and how you placed something. The short easy answer is that if you place something using the Door Back Inserts in the DBX of the item (door or drawer) OR if you place it from the library in the Shelf dialog; that can show up in a schedule. If you change a shelf or shelves to a rollout in the DBX there is no way to show it. The longer answer is that the above rarely would meet my needs and also not always the most efficient method. So then... Let's go to the second part of your question first- how to get that information to the cabinet company. There are no brands that connect to Chief. It may be that some small full custom makers use CA but I don't know of many, just larger ones. So for the mainstream there are two choices to send the information to them. How to get info into Chief and then to the mfg- IOW create and order. First let me say that I can't explain this fully in a post here- at least it's more than I'm willing to try but here's the gist of it. You want to get all of the relevant information into a cabinet schedule. You need to match the cabinet brands nomenclature and sizing options EXACTLY. Ideally you have a PDF copy of their catalog and a PDF app that allows you to copy text. You want to have the cabinet labels match the makers nomenclature. There are several ways to deal with that. In general I used some macros and some cabinets kept in the library. For mods and accessories the easiest approach to that is to have codes in Object Information Fields, often some custom ones. There is a way to use style palettes to add codes to a cabinet in plan. I approach that by having some that are used often and include any that might apply following the principal that it's faster to delete some text than to type. When placing multiple codes in a field separate them with semi colons to help with "paste special". Easiest is if they use an on line ordering system. Most brands that I worked with supported drag and drop of things into the system. There are a few that will import csv or other files formats. IF you can't drag and drop then you are left with typing the info in. If they don't have an online system then the option is to make a spreadsheet template that matches their order form. I've done both. In either case start with a schedule in Chief. First temporarily delete any columns that are not needed for the order. Select the schedule. Copy it and "paste special" it into a spreadsheet. That is so that codes end up in separate cells, something that "paste special" is designed to do. Go Back into chief UNDO to put back the columns you removed. For drag and drop lock all of the cells in the spreadsheet, which should still allow copy. If your sheet doesn't there is an option to allow that. By locking the cells you can't screw things up. Place that on one side of the monitor, open the order form on the other and go to town. If a code is off you will know right away so keep the PDF handy. For using a spreadsheet template order form you first have to make one. Then paste special into a blank sheet. Copy and manipulate the columns and rows into a blank section. (more than I can simply explain here) Then line by line (though if you have done the manipulation well you can usually select all of the lines for a cabinet to copy and Paste into the template In many cases there will be one or more columns on the order form where you will have to enter some information manually depending on how the brand you're working with prices things. (like number of doors is often easier to just enter) NOTE- I have not needed to do this since Chief gave us the ability to swap columns for rows so that may be easier. I'd try it to see before going too far. I realize that this may not make sense if you are new, again sorry. I don't know of any of the folks on here who do training that have spent much time ordering cabinets as none are KDs. A few may be sharp enough to be able to work out the gibberish above and help you. I'm pretty much retired now and never did training per se except for drafting clients or on specail request. Training and setup or how to setup would be pretty time consuming. OTOH once done the system is pretty quick, very reliable and good at avoiding mistakes when used with best practices for ordering. That said if you choose we could talk about it more. I would not be available until November. Or just dive down the rabbit hole if your adventurous and be prepared to spend some time. (so don't try this with a deadline looming)

@KevinWaldron funny coincidence, I'm just wrapping up drawing 4 rooms of cabinetry for an outfit that uses Mozaik.

Insert into that statement what the original poster asked: I like the ease of creating floor plans and modeling basic interior design elements but curious about custom pieces.....We create a lot of custom pieces and incorporate custom wallpaper, colors, millwork, etc. that I’ll want to include in renders. Sounds to me like a typical CA user- a designer or draftsman. If you are building it yourself AND using CNC consistently there are better choices (though casework depends). When I send a job out to be built, they will take care of the CNC (and unlikely to offer a discount if I supplied a file) they may or may not accept DWG files which I can get easily from chief. Most often they just want a Cad drawing. I'm not so sure that casework on the whole is always better designed elsewhere, IMO certainly NOT SU. If what you are using supports import of DWG and you get familiar enough with Chief casework is a breeze. Now I would not want to draft anything like the rocking chair unless it was for myself to build since I work the old fashioned way. (even when I was the shop guy a few decades ago) If I needed musical instruments for a rendering I'd find something close enough, if really something special the client owned, I use a photo. If I needed either of those built I'd call a friend who does that. (before the shop guy tour, I was a Modelmaker/SPFX in NYC. We all knew and worked for each other. Nowadays all are doing other things-retired, painting, sculpture, drafting, musical instruments, furniture, play with model trains, selling real estate... ;-)

I've did a lot of work for IDs and KDs. Cooper gave you some good ideas and Valley showed a bit. Had this sample sheet in an easy to find place. Everything here was done completely in Chief and all of it saw completion at the job. I have more stuff but you should get an idea of what can be done. @ValleyGuyNice going, a good start. Few tips for both of you. When possible make symbols into cabinet doors-the valance with perimeter molding on it, even the backsplash as a cabinet door inserted into the back of the cabinet. For the latter you need to look into symbol origins and stretch zones/planes. In some cases to prevent resizing. The legs should be made to go from the floor all the way. Looks to me as if they are a bit proud as is the molding on them. Only need to make one, add to library, duplicate, open and rotate as needed. Always make symbols in a seperate plan that has four walls. Big enough you can copy as you progress, easier to go back a step or two if things get botched. Helps to remember what yo did later too. Have folders for saving symbol plans. #1- learn stretch planes, zones and 3D origins of symbols. Don't always try to make a symbol in one shot. Some things are done as symbol 1, change stretch or origin and make symbol 2, and or add a part convert, then symbol 3.... I often start with a pline box instead of a solid. Convert in place, copy in place, keep track of your cad layers, change fill or line for each copy. Transform replicate and offset copy are useful tools. (useful when working with boolean transformations) as in this Learn to use the delete surface tool. There should be some info on the forums some time in the past. Think about hacking parts from existing symbols- i.e faucet parts are useful to change to lamp or hardware parts. I've used stuff from library for lamps, furniture, cabinet hardware. Rotate a profile- convert it to solid, then explode, move face to origin. Can rotate other angles besides 360, for instance to get notched turnings. Don't know if it's still available but I would periodically license Revit Lt for a month- some high end suppliers have symbols that only open in Revit. Doing this you can convert them to something you can import into Cheif. When importing OR making symbols be sure to check ALL the tabs in the DBX-advance options always. Good idea to set as many materials as "use default" as makes sense. If there is likely to be a change in direction of wood grains use a seperate material for each direction now. Then you can still set them as use default. Rename the parts when working in the material tab. NEVER bring in Sketchup materials except images. Always find a compatible CA material during import. Manage your plan materials- merge and purge.

Place shelf in plan, place dishes on shelf. Convert it all to a symbol, fixture interior. Cabinet DBX, specify shelves, pick one. Change to use your shelf. Adjust spacing from prior, proceed with next one. Want to really save time- make a style palette out of the cabinet when you are done for future use.

The check box is correct, tool selection P to P not ideal... For each of these you should not only be using the dimension default but have selected that dimension type. IOW not using point to point Manual Dimensions- click inside cabinet, hold button and drag to other cabinet (dim on left) End To End Dimension- do not click in the cabinet, click just in front of the first countertop you want to dimension to, hold button and drag. Snaps are set to 12 pixel radius in preferences OOB. You can use point to point- I rarely use that, but NEVER just to dimension to a counter. It can work, clicking just in front of counter, hold button down, drag to other counter NOT to other cabinet. Again just in front of the countertop. This was on a PC but doubt this would be different on Mac

Lightly used for field measure and occasional client meeting, neither of which I do any more. I've run it on X15, have not tested on 16 but will get around to it. Renders but not fast! Can do a zoom demo if you like. (am away 10/26 to 10/27) Full specs at the end of post. $1000 plus shipping. markatmarkjamesandco that's a dot com EVOC (Clevo) High Performance Systems PB511G (PB51DF2) - 15.6" FHD 144Hz - i7-10875H - RTX 2070 Super LCD Panel-15.6” Full HD (1920x1080) 144Hz IPS 72% NTSC Matte Display Display Calibration-Yes, display professionally calibrated w/ profile saved to USB drive - $50.00 Minimize LCD Backlight Bleed= Yes, quality check and give me a panel with minimal backlight bleed. - $100.00 Display Warranty= 30 Days Zero Defective Pixel Warranty (perfect panel guarantee) - $35.00 Video Card- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2070 Super w/ 8GB GDDR6 Processor-Intel® 10th Generation Comet Lake i7-10875H 8 Core - 16 Thread Processor, 2.3 GHz (Max Turbo Frequency 5.1 GHz), 16 MB Smart Cache Thermal Interface Materials-Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut on CPU + GPU, and Fujipoly Extreme Thermal Pads on heat sensitive surfaces- $95.00 Memory-HIDevolution Approved Standard 32 GB Dual Channel DDR4 3200MHz (2 x 16 GB) - $200.00 M.2 SSD Slot 1 (supports PCIe or SATA) Samsung 970 EVO PLUS 1TB M.2 PCIe 3.0 x4 NVMe 3D-VNAND SSD - Up to 3,500 MB/s Read-3,300 MB/s Write - $210.00 M.2 SSD Slot 2 (supports PCIe)-None - OS installed on primary drive 1st 2.5" HDD/SSD Bay-1TB Seagate FireCuda Gaming 7mm SSHD (ST1000LX015) - installed by HIDevolution - $84.00 Intel® Wi-Fi 6 AX201 2x2 w/ Bluetooth 5.0 Genuine Windows® 10 Pro, 64bit, English TOP (Tuning and Optimization Package) Service for Windows 10-Yes, tune and optimize my computer - $99.00 230W AC Power Adapter (supports 100-240V) Removeable Battery Options-1 x Removable 6 cell Smart Lithium-Ion battery pack 62WH 2 Built-in Speakers Back-lit Gaming Keyboard-Single Zone Multi-Color illuminated full size keyboard with numeric pad. (15 colors to select) Orignal Subtotal $2,423.00 Added extra battery. Sell for $1000.00 plus shipping

I'm no longer doing any big field measures so don't need. Lightly used, excellent condition, with belt pouch. $300 including shipping markatmarkjamesandco that's a dot com or PM

If you mean pocket doors? since don't know what push back is (or CV).IF pocket then here is some of what you can do in X15. Some simple where you would float doors on top of cabinet on left. Harder is mixing cabinets on each other where some use use custom door symbols (birch cabinet partition included) For visuals you can use varied layers turned off/on. Threw this together over coffee. Somewhere I have plans, parts and assorted cabinets like this but did not go fishing. Open items and check ALL tabs in DBX Pocket dr.zip

Nope. In the past this has always been requested for open corner cabinets. Not sure why Chief can't fix this but it's been sent in for years. Open the best way is 2 cabinets. For a drawer base (see below for MHO) It can be done with 3 instead which may have some advantages. (I used a custom drawer for the applied overlays to make it look nice in Standard view) Whichever method used they can be blocked or turned into a fixture symbol to go into a schedule. IMO- I've never used one, there is almost always a more efficient solution. The attached plan shows the drawer size as hatched, a bit bigger in the rare case they use oversize glides. You are getting almost the equivalent of a 15" 3DB. Instead I add the extra width to the cabinets on each side. Increase of 18" storage width for full overlay depending on size of corner fillers. With inset cabinets that can be an increase of 20". Since corner cabinets can rarely be combined that can be another 3" accounting for stiles. and up to 23" when accounting for combined cabinet. Instead I often completely blank the corner; usually with a nice wider DB on one side; sometimes changing one to a Hafele LeMans or similar. Exactly what depends on storage needs. In any case it helps to do the math for actual storage area of each solution to show the client because folks have an emotional that is not always rational need to "recover" the corners. Play with it a bit with your layout. corner drwr.zip

An alternative is to use a fixture symbol set into wall You can use a cabinet, orignal at left, then fixture made from cabinet, then that inserted into a niche. OR you can set shelves to insert into a wall niche last on right.. Advantage is you have more control over the placement and or number of shelves AND important if you need framing. If using shelves make it oversize, place in plan, set height for one, resize as need. Transform replicate to add more shelves.

You show the layer set used for plan views. The default for a camera should be the Kitchen and Bath Elevation Layer Set.

I think the issue is that what you show is angled AND bowed, yes? That can't be done as a single cabinet but can be done, at least I couldn't. It can be done but tricky...hHere is pic and file. Bottom moldings and feet will need attention as will side door panel. This can be blocked or perhaps turned into a symbol for multiple use. I didn't go that far, this kept me amused long enough :) Angle curved cabinet.zip

First try- File, backup entire plan, backup plan files only and send backup files to zip archive. Not usefuil if your textures are needed for answer but otherwise works often. For instance I just used that to upload a file that shows to be 4.71 MB but once backed up without anything was 711KB. If that doesn't get it small enough strip out everything but that room and the one right behind it, everything, then save as, the backup. No point in guessing without a plan file.

as the way it would be in real life? That's what I would do but it can be done as a cabinet with a few caveats. As done here what appears to be applied side panels are not the same as you show. These are on the front of the cabinet. That means that the shelf goes beyond the edge to the inside of the cabinet. There are other far more complicated ways to do it with custom door symbols but I would not (and I do a lot of stuff that should not be done How is it getting done IRL? in any case plan attached which might be instructive for something else in the future. Tall but why.zip

Select the material -copy and rename or just adjust material- check global symbol mapping

The way I learned stretch planes and zones was to print out all relevant pages from the User manual (or help nowadays) and kept them on my desk for reference until I uinderstood. The hinge point is on the Y access. It will place 3/4" behind the front of the cabinet the door is in. So in this case....