MarkMc

NO. Possible if you jump through a lot of hoops but would only show in 3D, the 2D will be incorrect. More importantly that is NOT a scribe, it supports the dado where the back panel inserts. 1- too small, 2- if that is trimmed the cabinet will sit skewed to the wall Always order scribe molding- at least 2 lengths for a kitchen. more installers can safely work with that. IF it is important in real life you want "side extended back" if the cabinet maker offers that and you have a very talented installer. I've done that in Chief when it was really really important but complicated. Makes more sense to just use a filler, note and CAD if needed.

Yes, if need be. For something like this it's faster and easier than playing with macros. OTOH I have a number of Style Palettes for cabinets I use often with the mods already listed. Those usually list all of the likely mods for a cabinet, such as having each side listed as flush finished. I just delete unwanted mods. The system saves typing and configuring the cabinet. I also have some mod codes (per maker) in a list I can copy.

I was going to try again to work out the Ruby for this but realized the reason I never needed it. Instead of doing weird things to the cabinet I draw that normally but call it out in an OIP field that I use for any and all modificatons. I always have that field in the cabinet schedule so EZ.

Need to hack that with custom symbols. You can show open as attached. IF you also want to show it closed you will need to set up a second layer for this cabinet (and a layerset) then force a closed cabinet directly over it using a second layerset. Open in one layerset, a second layerset to show the closed cabinet. You have to also put the folded doors on a special layer to be able to turn them off. I just turned off the fixtures interior for this. Folding pocket doors can be done the in a similar way but more complicated Bifold door.plan

I know how to get something for the size into the properties by cheating. Set Left Separation to 0; the split the face, cleaned up the junk until I could have a single element (in this case side panel inset) of the width wanted, reset the reveal. That will show this in the properties. BUT I don't remember the macro needed to get the 3in and would be have to search more text than I want so someone else needed for that.

Nope, when you turn them off they will all go away. I keep them off always but set up keyboard shortcuts for each- FB base, FW wall, FT tall. The tool stays activated so you can just go around clicking for them to place, they will size automatically up to 3" OR you can add as needed or go around

Had a though and found that by changing the top and bottom separations to side panel inset slabs the extra semi circle goes away eliminating the need to use delete surface tool. Note if changing height you have to do that before changing out the separations or it goes away when shortening the height.

Made from cabinets, plan attached. Just get it to correct sizes and put in doorway. Paneled arch.zip

Note this question belongs in Q & A. Tips is where you would post your tips and tricks. Change Y axis of symbol to recess, save to library. Optional to center it.

There are simply not enough users that want it. Gene's list applies to many more users and situations and I'd agree with him. When I was a dealer there were likely 2 dozen KDs within 1/2 hour of me. I would say that I did more of these than all of them combined, only a handful even did inset cabinets. Despite there being a decent market around here for beaded inset as there is a large number of very old homes. I first worked these out in X9. I had a large prospective project where the client was undecided on doorstyle but wanted beaded. They needed to see it in 3D with several door options and I always showed what would be inside the cabinets so wanted them working. This landed me the project and led to other projects. I eventually had to work out a second smaller set to work with schedules for a second suppliers requirements. I did plenty of these in wood. The graining on the beads while slight due to the size is accurate. Not sure what you mean by a door within a door. Sorry but for now you have to work it out with the info provided. The beads are door symbols. When I first did these I had less to go on and it had been deemed impossible by some advanced forum users. You have a head start with what I told you. The first time it took me a few days to work these out. At first I gave them away but I got too many contacts asking for more help; then some joker tried offering my plans without credit. I stopped the freebies. I'm retired now so it's my pin money; I sell 2 or 3 a year. I still invest a few hours each time: checking everything, adjusting when an update breaks the symbols, adding more instructions, included zoom instruction meeting and guaranteed follow up.

Figure it out yet? I use doors. Not too bad to do just one type of bead. If you use combined cabinets AND cabinet schedules to assist with ordering AND you need the cabinets called out individually it get a little more complicated. The easy way is I sell sets of plans. PM me if interested.

I watched the first video, I understand your system. Thanks but I'm covered. I mentioned I have plans for beaded insets cabinets with 1/4", 3/8, Elite Cove, Square and French Inset Beads. The beading is part of the cabinet any door can be used with them with a single click, usually globally. Picture below shows a plan of the 1/4" bead cabinets where I dropped new doors/drawers from my user library into them individually in a few minutes. Just doors, I'm set, have made every door symbol I used for more than a decade. Just for you Gene from my beaded inset. Line wts could maybe be better ( I ought to correct the right hand door bead but door swing is correct, 3D is correct and doors open with bead staying put. Note have the beads to mitered is not worth the trouble since you need an altered bounding box which is unreliable.

Well I didn't get it until the end of the video. I may still not get it but those don't look to be inset cabinets to me. What I see is a full overlay door with a framing bead around the panel and a second bead around the door. That can all be done from a countertop. Set both moldings as needed, one around the panel for a framing bead, a second one offset from the panel leaving an empty space as wide as the separations of symbol cabinet (the one you make the final door from) When you convert that to a cabinet door set the stretch planes OUTSIDE of the symbol to prevent it from resizing. Then a little math, offset the z axis to account for the one molding and the cabinet seperation. Check the final size of that door symbol (I call these the wainscot panels), adjust the cabinet size so that you wainscot to the framing bead inside the opening and you second outer bead will then fit around the wall cabinet. Then convert that to a door symbol, set stretch zones; adjust materials (I usually do that after symbol is in library) Plan attached with all the stages I have several sets of plans for that with different beads. Pretty complicated to make to begin with. Two beads.zip

If you don't need the door to operate you can just make it as a door and use it as a side panel inset. Stretch zones work for that, no change to bounding box.

Or set a tall cabinet to size, add a few to the library instead of using partitions.