rgardner

Just FYI another way to accomplish what you want to do is actually create rooms and even floors to help with rendering and elevation views with shadows etc. I often times will do two different bathrooms on separate floors for the ease of switching back and forth and for layouts. When you send your plan file camera view to a layout you can then use the layout box to crop out the walls you don’t want to see.

What you are are seeing is the bottom chord of the truss being the flat and the tail of the truss being the sloped part. You can try doing: Boxed Eave - Flush Eave to get the look I think you are asking for:

Yup don’t have to touch anything other than my phone. Unfortunately heading back to Panama tomorrow where they don’t have many places that accept it yet. But did get my new 19 MBP 16”, iPad Air 3, and iphone 11 while here on it. Nice 3% cash back! Plus in everyday being able to not touch anything. Although today I used it and had to hit the okay button on the reader at a gas station. Fortunately it was before the bathroom stop so could immediately wash up.

Don’t know the property specifics but is there a reason why you couldn’t just echo the stairs that are going up to the stairs going down? Stacking twin stair sets is very common with U shaped stairs. if they want just exterior stairs you probably need to post some property pictures or a terrain plan so you can get the best recommendations possible.

Yes looks like something is up. Best to do as chop mentioned and post a plan to confirm or rule out whether it’s a hardware issue.

Do you have another building in your plan? Appears you have a big shadow showing. couple of things to try if you don’t. 1.) temporarily toggle your shadows off 2.) adjust the sun to follow camera

Maybe this is what you guys mean when you say “build order”. But I always thought it was in order the item was placed while building the model. However I always just kept going and reorganized it manually. So nice to know it can be reordered that easy. Thanks Michael!

There are several recent posts on this subject I recommend searching and reading through. You have the ability to import a 3d model as a symbol and cut it for tracing is the short answer.

I use a Samsung 32” curved and love it. Right now I am traveling and spent the last two weeks using a 25” flat panel where I am staying with my laptop screen as second monitor. Besides the extra real estate I miss the less strain of the curve as it’s easier to see the things at the extremes of the screen. I would definitely go for the 4K or better ones though for Chief work.

https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/4/understanding-layers.html This may help you understand what layers actually do. Once you understand them it will click for you.

Here is a general trick. Select the item you want to “hide” and open it and look to see what layer it is on... then...

Glad it’s working for you. Sometimes if you have a trouble wall it works well to marquee select your windows and doors and Cmd(Ctrl)+X cut them delete that wall then redraw the wall and Cmd(Ctrl)+Alt+V to paste the windows and doors back in the same place.

Can you get the room to be shaded (selected) with an adjoining room? If so it should show any walls that the room definition is going through and thus is set as no room definition.

That is generally the issue when something is missing in one view and not in another. That item is turned off. Sometimes it gets put on some layer that doesn’t make sense in your head. Best way to find it is to change to all layers on select the item to find out which layer it is on and then go back to the previous saved plan view and turn that layer on.

Just set your Ceiling plane manually as well as set your rafters to the right height. I do it all the time with timber framed porches just without the rigid.

If I am understanding the request properly you can set a custom ceiling structure for that room with the rigid foam and the tongue and groove.

Don’t recall where I got this (pretty sure from another post). And I don’t think I actually ended up using it so I didn’t mess around with it much. But maybe this will help? Roll_Up_Garage_Door.calibz

Have you tried doing a regular wall with an opening with no jambs casings or threshold? Sometimes on those stepped ceiling floor areas room dividers mess up the 3d

The schedule is fitting to the 2d or 3d symbol height. If the large lines bother you I believe you can change your text size to a little larger so that it fills it in a little more. But of course if you get it too big it will look funny when printed.

Chief is just trying to fill in where walls are needed according to what is input. If you are trying to do a roof over the stoop and you want it open to the rafters above select the room “porch” and unselect the radio button of flat ceiling above. Occasionally you will need to delete the ceiling structure member as well but that is rare. The attic walls will only be created where they are needed on the side. If your trusses or rafters sit right on your top plate of your wall below then no attic walls will form as they are not needed. But if you use a raised heel truss as many do, or your truss base is siting up above your wall top plate then chief will fill in an attic wall above it.

As far as the other issues a plan file would probably be best in order to figure out what’s happening.

I saw this on Facebook but didn’t have a chance to respond. I believe you are asking for the support knee walls in your foundation crawl space to support the joist floor system? Chief builds rooms even in the foundation so I believe your solution is to set your ceiling height in your foundation to the bottom of the joists and then build the walls. If you have auto framing on if you adjust the wall framing you need to open that wall in structure and select the radio button for not to auto generate framing for that wall to keep it from resetting to what it thinks you want it to do.

Haha no I live in da campo of Panama so my internet is always slow 9/1 so when windows updates it takes a long time because of the speed. yup I try not to get into the os debates other than maybe when sitting in the pool with my Dad in Mexico. I was just trying to help the OP see the differences and still understand what makes Apple a great product. Speaking of, I am in Mexico next to the pool... I think it’s pool time!

Yes I realize that. My intent with that comment was to help the OP in his decision as he is going from an Alienware laptop to a Mac mini. Two different style of machines.

I agree that with Apple products it just works. The absolute only time I have an issue with my computer is when I try to run one specialized program that I use for BOQS that is absolutely only windows and I cannot find a suitable replacement for and have to run windows with parallels which in that case it will always have a stupid update that locks the computer up for sometimes hours while it downloads with my slow internet! But basically what was stated is the truth. Apple just works because it is controlled with the hardware and software. It is not quite fair to compare an Alienware laptop to a Mac mini. And yes you would need to run apples to apples (forgive the pun,) to get a fair comparison in which case the Apple equivalent will most likely cost more because it is balanced properly. In my life experience it generally costs more to have more convenience and quality. That is what Apple does best. Just my two cents (free of charge) regarding Apple products. Everyone needs to do what is best for their circumstances but please don’t ask me to go back to PC because I won’t ever. I am happy with the cost and the quality and product I get. For me the extra cost is worth it to not have downtime worrying about my drivers and ramping my fan because it needs to run faster when I do x, it does it automatically. It just works... I hope this helps the OP in his decision making.