rgardner

I usually have a 6” pony wall and a 74” glass shower wall setup as I usually have some “full-height” glass wall and the door doesn’t always go from wall to 42” wall as in this plan. So I setup my default shower door 6” from floor and 74” high to the same specs as my standard wall. The very reason for this whole thread. But when I place the door there it subtracts the wall cap height from the door height. Regardless if I add that amount to the default door or not. The weird thing is when placed from the user library instead of the template default “location” it places correctly which is my very point with this inquest.

In your plan you have your little jogged in room set as flat ceiling which is why it is dropping down there but everything else builds a straight flat truss with a single vault surface below. Just uncheck the flat ceiling for that or if you want that flat ceiling but want to stick frame it set it as non first then place your trusses and after go back and set the ceiling after you have your trusses how you want it with a manual ceiling plane and frame the ceiling individually by that room. is that what you are after? btw I couldn’t get it to build at a true 108” either... seems like that wall wants to add the floor finish level. But it was interesting when I clicked floor above is hung on wall for that wall...

I don’t recall the trick but it has something to do with the screen size. I would recommend searching the forum as it has been discussed many times.

Are you saying to do a double vault? If that is the case then yes you would need to manually set ceiling planes.

Yeah I was able to place it too but have all along. I guess what I am looking for is it to be able to be placed into a wall and not have to go back and resize it just like it is designed to be done. But the more and more I see it seems to be a glitch since it takes the wall cap out of both the bottom wall height as well as the door height. I guess unless someone else has something I will submit it to technical support and just keep using my door in my user catalog.

Thanks Mick for the try. It looks like you had to manually adjust the door just like I have been doing. You have a 6" high tile 2 sided wall there and when you place the door into it it actually has a -3/4" height. Messing with what you did I was able to get it right but I had to 1.) set that curb wall to 80" single type railing wall (not pony wall), then place the door which gave me the right height. then 2.) change that wall to a 6" high railing wall. However the door that remained was not at the right point until I changed it to a two way swinging which placed the hinges in the middle. (Which does make sense.) The problem is that you have to do that work around from placing it as a 80" railing then place the door then back to 6". It makes me think it is acting more and more like a bug??? The whole reason I am trying to get this to work as a template is because I always manually adjusted it in every shower before. Only way to make it work without having to set everything on the door manually is if I use the one that I saved to my library. Again not a big deal but seems like it might be something that could trip up others. I know that one client I work with does lots of showers and she always was fighting with this and until I started working with her she couldn't figure out how to adjust it to show it properly. Seems like maybe A.) I am doing something wrong or B.) there is a bug in this setting as it seems to take the wall cap thickness off of both sections of walls not just 1 section. Also there may be times when you don't want that door to go from solid wall to half wall. You might want the front to be all glass with the door set in the side of it and then transition to a 42" pony wall near the corner... If that is the case you have to place everything then go back in and manually set all of those settings instead of the default door placing properly.

Well I spoke too soon. Thinking about it that wouldn't work because it wouldn't be able to have the shower door added to it. I went back and tried just in case but yes it just puts a 6" high shower door into the curb. The door continues to come in exactly the 1.25" short or thickness of the wall cap. I tried adjusting it to be 1.25" longer and it still cuts it off that length every time. it isn't putting it at the 4.75" height below the cap either it starts it where it should and ends it every time at 72.75" tall or 78.75" overall. As Rene mentioned the only way to get it to work correctly is if I add the shower door as a symbol (even with the default settings I have) to my user library and place it from there. Which is what I am going to do for now. But it seems like a glitch to me unless someone can figure out why it is happening as it very well could be something I am overlooking. Thoughts?

Thanks for the offer Rene, I know how to make it right. I was trying to get it right so when I do it for my template it is right. I See Mick figures out which step I was missing. Just a 6” rail instead of a pony wall.

That makes sense!!! Thanks Mick

Thanks for the idea but I checked that originally and do not have headers turned on.

Hope all are staying safe and sane out there. Have a small issue I need help working through. Really not a huge deal but... This is always something that I did manually before but watching @Renerabbitt's great tutorial on showers the other day I picked up a couple of pointers and decided to fix my template with a shower room. I have always just adjusted the shower door, curb wall, 1/2 wall etc to the settings so everything worked correctly but thought hey, why don't I get it set up right in my template... Anyways not sure what I am doing wrong here but here is my issue: 1.) Set Glass Pony Wall Defaults (pretty much out of box but changed to 42" & 38" elevation heights for even numbers as inside and outside floor finishes are different in shower rooms 2.) Set Interior Glass shower door Defaults to 74" Height 6" off of ground top height 80" 3.) Place Walls & Door to check it, cut 1/2 wall where I want the door and change to 6" high & 74" high instead for curb height. End resultssample template plan.plan: It seems to correct the interior door by 1 1/4" (Thickness of my wall cap). Am I doing something wrong? I just changed my door setting to 74" height to get it to flush correctly but even adding it to the door height in my defaults and it cuts it off the same height. Thoughts? What am I missing here? Any help would be very much appreciated! Bonus points for anyone who can help me with adding in a macro into the roof plane label @ template level. I always just group select the roof planes at the end and add my macro for the label but am thinking maybe there is a way to do that at the template level? Thanks for any and all help!

Flood plane area?

Learning from this rather lively convo: it appears like what Michael is saying is that your template has some errant walls saved in it when you built the template maybe? Why not open a blank one with your template and throw all layers on and check all levels? Might find something or put that point to bed as not the issue???

Are they penetrating the ceiling/roof structure? If so that could be the issue.

It is all about finding a texture that matches closesly enough with the siding. If it is a Cedar siding for example which is one of the more difficult scenarios get a wood that is similar to it in look (not color) and change your corner boards to that material. Then download the minwax stain catalog and mix a stain with that wood texture. Trial and error. If it's a cementious product like Hardie they have trim products as well as siding with the same colors and with the vertical grain.

Great explanation. I picked up a couple of tricks. BTW I do the same thing with my shower curb wall, and you can set it as a default to remove that base molding so you don't have to remove it from the room. Also I like your idea of making it a set room and am thinking you probably can remove the default molding in that room the same as setting your mud bed floor and changing your floor tile. Thanks Rene!

Probably missing what you are saying here or this particular job's details but if you set your roof structure to reflect the 20" parallel chord trusses then it should have built it properly.

Learning something new here.... So Eric you are saying instead of having a radius for that molding if it is faceted then it will show correctly??? Have you seen a limitation if setting high levels of facets?

Looked at the plan and I think what Mark is talking about is causing the issue. just grab that wall in elevation mode and lengthen it to cover it. The wall will automatically cut correctly and fill in that area. I don't usually worry about those till the very end as at some point many times it fixes itself which means it is a step we are doing that we are not associating it with finishing that wall off. Probably not related, but I know having rooms not defined, as well as rotating your plan or mirroring it top to bottom without using the reverse plan feature can sometimes mess with this type of thing. For what it is worth, before building the roof I try to have all of my rooms defined as sometimes it costs more time later down the road to fix things that are associated with defining room types.

BTW a quick tip that does help with those scissor vaulted porches. Someone on here shared this a while back. Don't remember who but THANKS to whoever it was: 1 way of many to do it: Setup Ceiling planes in that "Deck Room" and set the vault/height/etc. Pull it out to the edge of that wall instead of the inside of the attic wall which will cut the exterior wall that way. I don't do them that often but I remember this method seemed to work how I wanted it to on that project.

Lora of techniques. Can use the ramp tool.

Probably a regional thing. Most of the PNW has a 12-18” frost depth so lots of builders scrape your topsoil add your compacted fill then a 4” slab on top. No frost wall in a lot of those areas. Just put in a pc pier ftg for the posts.

Are you asking if you can change a camera to a back-clipped view? If that is what you are asking then you can open the camera itself in plan view and set the back clip setting. You probably already know this and I am not understanding your question. Can you clarify it more please?

I knew that I had seen that before.

Thanks Scott for hosting and the lively conversation. i enjoyed cleaning some new info and clarifications. Thanks for all of our power users who were there and were able to chime in as well.