rgardner

Learning from this rather lively convo: it appears like what Michael is saying is that your template has some errant walls saved in it when you built the template maybe? Why not open a blank one with your template and throw all layers on and check all levels? Might find something or put that point to bed as not the issue???

Are they penetrating the ceiling/roof structure? If so that could be the issue.

It is all about finding a texture that matches closesly enough with the siding. If it is a Cedar siding for example which is one of the more difficult scenarios get a wood that is similar to it in look (not color) and change your corner boards to that material. Then download the minwax stain catalog and mix a stain with that wood texture. Trial and error. If it's a cementious product like Hardie they have trim products as well as siding with the same colors and with the vertical grain.

Great explanation. I picked up a couple of tricks. BTW I do the same thing with my shower curb wall, and you can set it as a default to remove that base molding so you don't have to remove it from the room. Also I like your idea of making it a set room and am thinking you probably can remove the default molding in that room the same as setting your mud bed floor and changing your floor tile. Thanks Rene!

Probably missing what you are saying here or this particular job's details but if you set your roof structure to reflect the 20" parallel chord trusses then it should have built it properly.

Learning something new here.... So Eric you are saying instead of having a radius for that molding if it is faceted then it will show correctly??? Have you seen a limitation if setting high levels of facets?

Looked at the plan and I think what Mark is talking about is causing the issue. just grab that wall in elevation mode and lengthen it to cover it. The wall will automatically cut correctly and fill in that area. I don't usually worry about those till the very end as at some point many times it fixes itself which means it is a step we are doing that we are not associating it with finishing that wall off. Probably not related, but I know having rooms not defined, as well as rotating your plan or mirroring it top to bottom without using the reverse plan feature can sometimes mess with this type of thing. For what it is worth, before building the roof I try to have all of my rooms defined as sometimes it costs more time later down the road to fix things that are associated with defining room types.

BTW a quick tip that does help with those scissor vaulted porches. Someone on here shared this a while back. Don't remember who but THANKS to whoever it was: 1 way of many to do it: Setup Ceiling planes in that "Deck Room" and set the vault/height/etc. Pull it out to the edge of that wall instead of the inside of the attic wall which will cut the exterior wall that way. I don't do them that often but I remember this method seemed to work how I wanted it to on that project.

Lora of techniques. Can use the ramp tool.

Probably a regional thing. Most of the PNW has a 12-18” frost depth so lots of builders scrape your topsoil add your compacted fill then a 4” slab on top. No frost wall in a lot of those areas. Just put in a pc pier ftg for the posts.

Are you asking if you can change a camera to a back-clipped view? If that is what you are asking then you can open the camera itself in plan view and set the back clip setting. You probably already know this and I am not understanding your question. Can you clarify it more please?

I knew that I had seen that before.

Thanks Scott for hosting and the lively conversation. i enjoyed cleaning some new info and clarifications. Thanks for all of our power users who were there and were able to chime in as well.

Before I got my pro I was using a 13" MBPro with an E-GPU hooked to a couple of monitors. It worked pretty well actually but the processor power and ram were less than I wanted and when the new pro came out I jumped on a good deal of a 1 year old one from someone who was upgrading to the newest $50k machine. I used the 13" and the e-gpu for travel for a while and on my last trip I had the screen die on me when I needed it the most. It is under warranty so is getting fixed but I was on an extended trip with three large deadlines I had to meet, so I ended up going and buying the new 2019 16in MBpro as my new travel computer. IT is very capable! I like it alot but it comes with a hefty price tag (Best Buy had them on $300 off recently though...) Hope that helps.

Awesome! I have the same setup!

Good to know. It would automatically put both in before but lols like they changed that in x12. I never needed both so didn’t know that you could tick that box before to do the same thing. Thanks Michael!

Yes as Michael says in x12 you no longer need the second schedule (worked in x11 as I did it by mistake once.) You can see in the pics I posted or in Michael's you can add it right in the label dbx of the window.

So combination of the two gets you:

Sorry I went back through to my job yesterday and found it isn't traverse, it was tresham. But looking at it you may want a different one: Check this one out:

X12 yesterday I believe it was in bathrooms, sinks, pedestal sorry not at computer at the moment but it was definitely in it yesterday as I used it then replaced it with another one.

Never had reason to do so but I think if you place two schedules (recommend on cad detail sheet) and turn off labels on one of them. I believe that will work. Not at computer at the moment though.

Just saw that yesterday it is in the pedestal sink section for Kohler

Thanks Scott! I will email you. maybe a few more of the power users will be available as well? Awesome chance to get the regulars together for some shared knowledge session!

Looks like it would be a short ceiling but I still think just putting in a flat ceiling plane would be the best for that particular case. Most likely the reason your change to that room would be affecting the others is that one of the walls has no definition (your room label is missing so makes me think that it is considering it part of the Dining room to the side or the Great room through the stairs). Either way if you put in a flat ceiling to the elevation you want it not only will give you the look you are going for but will also allow you to frame it.

I have read this a few times and I think what he is looking for is just to have a lowered flat ceiling under the stairs for say a powder bath? If I understand his need correctly I would think that a ceiling plane set to the right height to keep it flat would be best and would allow it to be framed too?