rgardner

I saw this on a clients file yesterday where there was some glitch that was not allowing it to show properly either even with setting elevations level correctly. He had started the drawing way away from x/y so I te entered the house model and I suspect that has something to do with the glitch. Didn’t have time to Reconstruct the whole terrain but a quick fix was making the center section a garden bed feature changed the elevation by half an inch and made it grass. It worked in that situation. As @Chopsaw mentions usually it is not an issue but something in this clients template I believe had it messed up. (There was something like 35 errant dormers between the four levels on the project so not sure what he did with the terrain.

Jared is highly recommended!

By chance did you adjust the shape of those manually drawn attic walls in an elevation view? If you manually edited them you may have pulled them up above the lowest layer of the roof system cutting it off? Hard to tell exactly what the problem is without seeing your plan.

You can save these in a couple of ways so that they are not filing up your template plan file and bogging it down. Method 1: Block them and save them individually in your user library and place appropriate notes in each plan. Method 2: Save a Misc. notes template plan with them in Cad Details (not the same as your regular plan file) and then reference them to your final layout file. These two methods help you keep your file size small in your plan. BTW nice easy to read plans.

I did get it to behave finally. It was cutting off my exterior walls before but I think the key was the no floor part. I had already removed the ceiling. It still showed a couple more glitches with some molding lines and corbels I had on mine but even though I didn't have a flat ceiling selected it was causing a weird gap so when I deleted the flat ceiling definition it took care of it. Figured there must be a way to make it work correctly. Thanks for the mental exercise everyone!

So did you do them as an attic wall? or just on the 2nd level? Maybe that was my issue as I think I tried it on the first level.

Care to explain? Did you do the roof baseline first?

Are you able to keep the auto roof feature on somehow? I know how to make the roof but am trying to get it to automatically create after manually adjusting that roof baseline.

I tried but was unable to get them to work correctly as it would mess with the exterior wall corners on the house. But I see what Mark is talking about and that is what I was looking for if it is automatic roofs. I know how to do it manually. Just trying to get it to do it automatically. when I try that option it does not work the same for me unless I manually adjusted the roof baseline, and still you have to manually rebuild the roofs every time to get it to be automatic as the automatic feature doesn't seem to work even though it is still checked. You have to force build the roof planes again. Which is where I was at. Am I missing something?

That was my thought as well. Just thought someone smarter than me may have an auto way of doing it. That is what I did for now. Just curious if it was possible.

I know how to accomplish this by manually changing the roof plane and setting it to size. But this is the only thing that I can't get this roof line to do automatically. Anyone know how to set this so that it would auto build to be A V shaped overhang instead of straight? Tried doing a patio room with railings and room dividers with no floor/foundation out there at an angle but as its only 30" additional overhang in the center the patio walls screwed things up. Any ideas?

Hope the economy goes up then on your return cruise from alaska you can swing by down here in Panama after you go through the panama canal...

Nice tub. Although it comes in REALLY LARGE in size:

Yes and you are probably right that it didn’t affect this but the plan I saw today he had not specified any of the rooms so it grabbed the garage elevation for its floor height and so his p solid was 18” from the floor. Once I set the room type and put in a new p solid it was correct. Just thought it could maybe have affected your issue too. Could be. I generally don’t worry about any of the attic walls until my plan is way more advanced and room definitions is something I have noticed usually makes differences in little things. Anyways was just a thought that maybe Robert wasn’t that far off on this.

Interesting. Didn't open your test plan but just helped someone else with an elevation issue for a polyline solid he put in the plan. He hadn't specified the different rooms and even though each room had the ceiling and floor heights set properly it automatically went with the lowest possible setting to figure the floor height (in this case his specified garage floor which is set in his preferences to be 18" below the other floor. So it put the polyline solid in the wrong spot when he tried to specify it from the floor height. I am thinking that in your case what Robert is saying may have some validity, chief doesn't like the unknown and thus is playing wonky until it is set correct. Hope you like my super technical terminology. Anyways just a thought...

In case you are on a mac (Don't see what you use in your signature line (BTW this info is very helpful to others trying to answer your questions.) If not maybe this will help others searching for something similar. Other option for compiling if you are on a mac is natively inside preview, just open up the files you need to compile and use the preview thumbnail on the left side and just drag from one document to the next (you can multiple select all pages in the thumbnails and drag them all into the document you want as your end document. You can also re-order your documents. There are of course other programs you can use for pc or even mac but this one is very easy imho.

There are lots of ways to accomplish this style of construction. Erick was kind enough to do a search for you (usually easier and faster than asking on the forum,) and those are great ways of doing it. I have done a few in South and Central America which this can be a similar style of construction. My preferred method is -Foundation for the footing on level 0 -Posts & Beams on Level 1 -Subfloor and 2nd story on Level 2 Best of luck!

Congrats! You will love it for sure! BTW are you a licensed PE only in PA or in other states as well? I have done a couple of projects out there in the past so a local PE that is a chief user could be very helpful!

This is the type of item it would be best to include your plan file with the post. BTW Welcome to the forum. It is very helpful to the excellent chief pros if you have your signature line filled out with your software as well as some hardware specs. See mine below as well as this link to fill it out. I see from the pic you are using x10, many times the version change makes the difference with what the solution is.

HDPro is a lighter weight program for 3d than chief so you may get better inforation on the hometalk forum (for hdpro). But here is my experience previously using a mbpro 13" with the same graphic chip as your mini. I had the Black Magic e-GPU Breakaway Puck with a Radeon Pro 560 w/ 4gb ram for around $500 (now they are down to $300 if you buy it direct from sonnet). It was not a high end gpu by any means but it worked quite well. I used that as my work machine for about 9 months before I upgraded my desktop to a Mac Pro 6.1 (old garbage can model of the pro.) which has dual gpus and works amazingly! I continued to use my mbpro 13 for travel as i tend to travel alot and still work while doing so. I would bring my BM e-gpu with and although the unit itself was small the power brick was HUGE on it and in my opinion it should not be considered for travel. But it did the job and recently while in Mexico there was a power issue where it sparked and stopped working 100%. Sonnet replaced the bad unit with a new one after nearly a year of heavy use. In the meantime my 13" mbpro started having the screen issue that they are known to have and I ended up upgrading to the new 2019 16" MBPro with the 5300m with 4gb memory which flies as well. I ended up selling that Black Magic puck e-gpu on ebay for $300 and an insurance claim resulted in a full refund for the mbpro 13 due to the coronavirus issue shutting down their tech facility. So overall I actually came out ahead on the deal financially with getting 2.5 years of work out of the computer... My two cents: Go with the Sonnet Black Magic Puck for your mac mini, or step up to the 16" MBPro and resell your Mini. But really the mini with an e-gpu should run HDPro just fine. Hope this long diatribe helps in your decision making.

For what it is worth, when I use my laptop at home (which is rare) I use a usb 3 mini dock which has some usb ports, ethernet port, as well as an hdmi. I use that hdmi to connect to my big monitor and between the big monitor and the 16" laptop display that is what I use. When I travel I use the adapter and sometimes bring my 25" LG ultra-wide monitor with and connect via the hdmi port with no issues whatsoever. While working at home, if I were to need my other monitor or two more then I would just look into a splitter that could work with the other two and attach it to that. It can input power through a usb-c as well. This is the one I use with no delay issues but again only with one external monitor for what it is worth. My wife uses the same one on a 13" with multiple peripherals such as pro webcam, wacom tablet, ethernet, external monitor, and probably some other items. She is an online teacher so just brings her laptop connects the dongle and everything is setup including power at her desk. This is the one I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FX2LW35/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Looks like the same brand has one that has a HDMI, VGA, and DP port in it...

Also check the Man Cave #7- Audiophile catalog

Also just fyi it is oob set on the "Room Label" layer so that would need to be on. It will show up at the bottom of your plan somewhere on the exterior of the house.

Engineer in all 50 states (someone on this board uses him.) https://john-raby-associates-post-building.business.site/. To clarify I have never used him and only took note of his info in case it comes in handy for a random job. This architect I work with in Michigan is the first I have heard of with so many states but those 4 states are all close to where he has an office.

From what I understand there are many Engineers who are licensed in different states (even one I have heard about and that some on this forum use who is licensed in all 50 states,) but a much smaller portion of licensed architects in multiple states. I do work with an architect in Michigan who is also licensed in Wisconsin, Illinois, and Indiana (Still hand draws too...) so there are some out there.