rgardner

Any reason not to use a foundation wall on the foundation level? Then an additional "railing" wall on top of it with the same wall definition?

But it is also something had to be setup originally with your computer or at least prior to the problem. It allows you to go back “in time” in increments of one hour back at least usually 30 days (depending on your settings.)

Do you have time machine setup? If so just roll it back.

Hard to tell without the plan file but most likely what Scott mentioned. But there is a chance that your wall is not lining up with your foundation wall below? Seeing a portion of an attic wall.

Cat 6 can be used to transmit most things including hdmi cable adaption.

Glad it works for you. Just an FYI if you see issues with the ceiling in this one or other bathrooms you use that method it will most likely be the culprit.

Although that is a method to do it, I will be honest and this is one thing I disagree with Steve about. In certain cases it is okay to modify those walls in elevation views it is extremely rare and only if you know what you are doing. I would highly recommend you look at rene’s way of doing it instead as I would say that 90%of the time not only should you not pull the wall manually but it causes other issues.

I actually saw less hardwired a few years back but a resurgence in the need for Cat6 or better due to the many networking devices that are happening now. Between cameras, local NAS for companies and families, adding wireless AP's to different rooms for the higher demand of a clear wifi signal, and more I think wiring for networking is coming back. From a building standpoint I would run Cat6 or better to each room at least for future expansion.

There have been a couple of excellent videos on this topic from some power users to check out:

If you want to the Ceiling non railing wall Less than full height equals railing and you can set the height by setting the railing height which is on top of the pony wall height so if you want it to 80” and your pony wall is set to 42 80-42=38”

All kidding aside. I am interested about what people are mentioning about the vertical second monitor. I use a 32" curved oled Samsung for my main monitor (jealous of those 43 & 55's, might have to consider a wall hung one in my next office (hoping to move after this mess with Covid is up and will hopefully have more of the office space at the next location.) My secondary monitor is an LG 25" ultrawide which I have always used on the side which is great for takeoffs (another portion of my business.) and obviously I use that for my other necessary browser, email, etc. windows as well as my project browser, Library, and ALDO. My desk mount allows me to rotate it easily so I just tried that and I am going to give it a try for a little bit and see. But was curious as to what people have seen is the benefit in portrait vs. landscape mode on these ultrawide secondary displays. Great thread @Hammer7 Sorry to kind of hijack it, I almost started another post but thought this part kind of goes with what you are looking for of the different techniques of what to use for optimal workflow.

That is the excuse I use with the wife too. I really needed that new TV...

Just looked at it and your exterior wall has the exterior material set to drywall. Most likely you were using the paint materials tool on accident? Go to the wall (or use the paint tool) and set the exterior material to default again.

Thanks for this post, I learned a little tidbit I had not come across yet, it is good info to know about the different materials and makes sense why chief models it that way. Just curious as to why you are using polyline solids to frame that instead of actual framing materials?

Try F1 for help on this there is several selection on what the area is.

Although there are some similarities between the two versions with this particular part of the software they are done differently. It is highly recommended to look for your answer in the home talk forum so you are not spending your time with answers that don’t work for home designer pro.

Slight tweak is to use a saved plan view with the railing turned off after taking a cad detail from view, copy and paste the adjusted section of railing you want in place on the view with no railing.

I do lots of them and everybody has a different style. mostly if I have a double stack closest to the house is bottom and upper is farther away. If three or more the lowest goes on the inside of the wall and the uppers are stacked on the outside.

Could be that on the page information tab the include in schedule is not selected? If that is not the issue this is your best bet to get help.

It has to have been manually adjusted (dragged in a 3d or elevation view. As Erick wrote let chief work for you. 99.9% of the time the walls do not need to be adjusted manually.

Try clicking on and opening the wall and go to structure tab and make sure default wall top and default wall bottom are clicked. Looks like it was manually adjusted in an elevation mode.

Is it by chance your window was manually moved over and is barely sitting on the laptop screen as well as the monitor? Try full screen or fit to size window adjustment???

It almost looks like the Frieze board trim may be causing the issue in the first pic... Is the settings for it normal?

True as well as when using pdf takeoff software such as bluebeam’s REVU it is “clickable” in that it is easily measurable from different points.

Not at computer but try raising your rake wall slightly so the wall caps align.