rgardner

Assuming you are using premier it is in the settings for story-pole dimensions. You can set how many decimal points it lista to or change to fractions instead.

I use this method. I have a little 2d symbol in my library which is 2 45deg dashed lines which in some areas is indicative of a continuation of circuit then I place a note there saying to upstairs circuit, and I copy the same concept upstairs. Side note when using the spline go ahead and just change that line to the electical connection layer it will look the same as your electrical connections and show up where you want it.

In x12 setup a quick style palette and apply it. Pretty quick

Do you happen to have them vertically mulled as well? If they are stacked windows try mulling just the upper set and doing it then milk afterwards.

I didn't look at the plan file. Just offered something I have done with other plans with this scenario. OP said it worked for him. Maybe they can share? @cortssmith

It will spread across both walls.

Just change the walls in your existing plan. Just make sure the first floor wall, and the pony wall lower wall are the exact same wall and on align at outer main layer.

You are using the material eye dropper to choose the color of the upper wall. Use the object painter instead or do it the right way and open the lower wall and change it to a brick 6 as Michael shows above as well as Erick did in his video.

So Michael Erick and I have all told you to change that lower wall the same as what you are setting the pony wall on your second level. That is how it is done but your video shows you not doing that step.

That would either be a wall definition issue or the fact that you have something other than align on outer main layer selected to offset them.

A pony wall in Chief lingo is the lower portion of the wall and has no bearing on the fact it sticks out or not. A common tactic in PNW is to use lap siding on the lower half and 1/4” hardi with battens for a board and bat above. Wall is framed as one wall but in Chief you would model it using a pony wall and setting it to lap-6 and the upper as board/bat 6 ( as an example only). now in typical Chief fashion there are many ways to do it including using the yellow wall for both lined up and using a wall material region to place the brick on that area. Either way just as when it is built the walls would bear directly one over the other. The rest including usually the sheathing is going to be on the exterior layer of the wall definition.

Are they the same wall types and lined up? Did you try it with chief’s oob template? If they are lined up and the same wall types then you have an issue with your wall definitions. They should line up perfect.

Click the download link at the right.

Set the first floor wall to the exact same as the lower section of your upper wall and unless you have set your foundation to offset it should all line up.

I think what Erick was saying is make your first floor wall just the masonry wall, make your second floor pony wall with lower wall as masonry, and the upper as the yellow wall. Set your elevation you want and it will auto build it how you want. Really discourage dragging walls as it will cause issues later.

Just to add that setting is floor specific. So you will need to change it on all floors or set it that way in your template before adding any floors.

No not the connect walls button. Do you have the one wall selected? Not both. Just the wall you want to adjust the layers on. Maybe search the help files?

As Glenn mentioned select the wall (do not open) and use the “Edit wall layer intersections” tool that appears in the edit toolbar at the bottom. Search help if you don’t know what that tool is or does. It looks like an intersecting set of Blue walls or an L shape. if you don’t want to see the mitered corner you can pull it around so it’s a square. Other option would be to pull that whole wall 6-12” around the corner so it ends naturally. btw what he says about the spray can may be true in your case.

Using the same tool you can make it go around the corner to meet with the side wall. Will work in both cases.

Sorry I assumed Erick was showing this in layout as it is much easier to do it there.

Yup, just like Erick shows here you can just put a simple CAD Mask over it with a slightly transparent fill, white or whatever the background is setup as works best. You can also use the "Line Style" tab in that same dialog box and change the line to an invisible line style and you won't see the box at all only the affects on it.

Nice trick.

Key to get it lined up is cross sections and measuring how much to go up and down on each side. Glad it helped out.

It would help if you mention the area you are building. Some will not work in certain areas.

It actually builds the wall right but you need to figure out your heights using cross sections and adjust the shape of the window top. You can reframe the wall manually and it is correct. It solves the issues with the drywall not finishing right from ceiling planes to wall transitions which are always a pain with those walls.