rgardner

Those are temporary points, in cad tools there is remove all temporary points tool. BTW just to add a tip. In the future draw your north pointer with the property line and select it when rotating the lot lines to parallel with the house and it will be adjusted propertly as well.

You don't have a third floor for the parapet walls. I am not sure what that molding is but when I opened it up and saw your walls are "dragged up to position I figured that is probably the issue. Build a third floor with a railing wall set to heights with cap, inside finish, etc. Place your roof system inside of those walls.

Read over what Mick mentions here carefully: When you changed the layer temporarily it may have allowed you to print what you wanted but when you swapped them back to the proper layer you will not see it in that view next time. It is much easier to just open the layer set you are using for wall elevations or cross sections and turn that furniture layer on in the place you need it.

Are you going to turn on that layer while you have the elevation view active? It uses a different layer set than the plan view.

Nothing to really add to your question here, but just a general bit of advice that alot of the power users helped me with when I first started (I stalked this forum a long time before I joined). 99% of the time there is no need to manually drag a wall, and 90% of the time when you do there are adverse affects that you will fight with afterwards. Once you understand how Chief builds things as rooms and boxes that are contained by lower boxes and roofs/other boxes above then you will be able to start figuring out things that happen and how to adjust the settings to model what it is you want. But I can tell you have the bug as Chief is truly addictive! Looking good so far!

+10,000

The 2019 Macbook pro 16" works awesome! If you are already a mac user I would recommend it for portability or an imac pro for desktop. Max out the ram and the video if you can.

I totally understand. It is addictive! BTW the F1 Key becomes an amazing friend while learning the program.

The auto behavior is most likely because you have the OOB setting to adjust for casing and the default casing for the door is not allowing it to go to the corner as it wouldn't IRL without ripping the casing to fit. Either change your casing size or turn off the adjust for trim setting.

I agree with Erick it is not 100% clear what you are looking for. Pictures would help. My guess is you may want to look at end to end dimensions though.

Once you have the custom countertop selected click the edge you want and an option to “waterfall this edge.” Shows up.

Did you make that screen symbol? That looks great!

Is it possible you have separate copies in the same place and that is why you are seeing it even though the one shows the invisible line style? Joey's method of doing separate boxes (set the one and copy around the border) then joining them all together seems like the easiest way unless you have a very rectangular room without a lot of jogs to it.

What he was saying is you can do the polyline then break it and form it to the area you want. --- Joey beat me to it and explained other easy ways to do it as well.

Personally I seldomly use the actual auto methods of deck support (and I try to use everything as possible with auto-build). It has great potential but it is not versatile enough in lots of cases where I usually allow the deck to auto frame then turn it off and adjust the joists/rim, etc. and I place my own beams and posts as I many times will do flush (2) or (3) 2x's with posts on corners lots of times. But that is just my personal workflow and how I usually handle it.

So just thought I would add I ran into this same issue (very similar design of an as-built deck that we are adding a roof to a portion of the deck. Same idea where it was offset and everything. In the plan it was not behaving like in the case of the OP, and I was able to use a room divider out away from the front railing (parallel about 6" away from corner post) then turned and came back allowing the non post to beam railing to build to it. Then i just pulled those dividers back to the edge of the post. It came out perfect in 2d and 3d with everything on autobuild. Used a doorway to model the transition between the two decks which in vector mode leaves the outline of where the top and bottom rail would be in vector but not in pbr or standard view.

That is true rotate plan can cause serious issues such as X and Y being swapped or the direction instead of clockwise to counterclockwise.

Sounds like a good suggestion in the making?

Are you talking about the reverse plan tool?

There are definitely different ways of doing it but I believe Chief designed this tool to use as it has the least amount of problems. I personally although having to adjust some dimensions or annotations occasionally have never had a problem using this. I have seen more issues with non-experienced users using the edit area tool to adjust it than the reverse plan if you simply want to switch the plan side to side.

It's one click for it to be done in the plan file automatically.

I am not very good at remembering to save these files but I happened to still have it open. Here you go for what it is worth. kevin whitt plan.plan

Sheathing builds over sub-fascia which you can unselect. Not sure why you would want to get rid of the fascia itself as that is shown in your pic but yes you can turn it off and zero out anything you don't want. I forgot to uncheck the soffit material.

Kind of like this? This one is using a rafter tail to bring the rafter square cut like you show: This one is without a rafter tail: All auto framing and roof tools. There are probably other ways to get it exactly as you are showing but I am guessing it would require as Erick mentions manual manipulation after auto roof got you to this point.

F1 key is magic!