rgardner

Although this type of construction does happen alot I would guess there are way more that are single story homes without a "half story" above so the oob settings are generally set for that. Although I am pretty sure that the oob template from chief has plumb cut set so I am guessing your template has been changed to that. But in every job you are going to need to set your defaults for that job. So you should set your roof structure and fascia for the individual job if it is different than your template. If you do just these or more of these style of construction jobs then you could definitely set it to default to those settings.

If this is an as-built there is probably a large fascia board and maybe a frieze and shadow as well? Got any pix of what you are trying to accomplish? Did you try setting your roof to plumb cut and giving it the size of fascia/sub-fascia that it would take to build it and cover the rafters?

As Glenn kindly pointed out there are some issues with your design as far as water penetration goes. Maybe research using a Balcony room and build out the settings as he recommends with some form of water barrier and drain system to control the rain from getting into your home.

I find the F1 key helps alot in these type of situations.

Yup that has been my experience. It would be an awesome tool if the pier/post tool could be set to the top height manually (or automatically if using auto deck framing) and have it set to a certain point above terrain. Would make 3d terrain modeling look that much better with lots less effort.

I may be a little dense but I am a little confused as to what you are searching for with this question. If I am understanding you correctly you have placed piers in what way? I believe for modeling and 2d you should be able to change your original 6x6 posts into the 24x24 cmu piers by changing the post to 24x24 and setting the material to CMU, resize your footing appropriately. You would then just need to set your post top height to the bottom of your beam. Am I understanding your question correctly?

It is tied to the label text definition. So the layer for the label has a text size default setting. Change that to the size you want to use.

Good catch Perry. The Aldo view shown looks to be like the one you are using in your plan 2d view and not your 3d view which uses whatever layerset/defaults you have set for that camera.

Just a guess here since you don't show any pictures of dbx for the layout but you most likely have a saved plan view problem where the layout was referencing a different saved plan view. Other issue may be how you have your layer sets/defaults setup. It sounds like it is pointing towards another view. But sorry hard to tell without seeing what you are talking about.

Glad it worked for you! Have a great weekend.

Move the foundation wall to the new location, or you can select the foundation "room" and unselect roof temporarily until you have things ready.

Looking up design criteria for a project in northern Oregon and came across this interesting info! Anyone else seeing this with covid? They don't claim it is a temporary measure either.

Your foundation wall is trying to build through to the roof.

Just to add: In the cross section view if you want it to "slice away" more of the house and move what you see go to the plan file and move the cross-section camera so the line is where you want to see and it will automatically up date to that position.

You are right with the Wall cap that it would need to be added as a molding line to do this. That is the downside to using a panel instead of a solid wall but it is alot easier and more dynamic to place a molding line for that actual molding than to try to place in this example 6 polyline solids for the screen enclosure. It is surely not the only way to do it nor am I saying it is the best way to do it. I am just saying it is the method that I use for my screened porches (I do lots of plans in Michigan and Wisconsin where apparently the mosquitos are bigger than the birds.) It does allow to get everything as close as possible automatically with no polyline solids needed. The posts if you need them to model can be done a couple of ways. 1.) Use your manually placed posts from below and bring them to the underside of the beam or ceiling if using flush beams. or 2.) Bring the posts to the top of the pony wall height and align with the posts in the railing wall. These are just a couple of the ways that come to mind to accomplish it. I believe the OP was asking about showing the newel posts in plan view which is what I showed him in the response above. I was not saying that it would auto place the post through, or at least I did not mean to infer that. Hope this helps someone.

BTW this is set as a balcony room and I changed the structure to be a 2x10 pressure treated joist with a decking material.

Sorry was finishing up a deadline. This is what worked for me:

Yes Steve it is using a "pony wall" for the lower solid wall and a railing to beam or ceiling with panel for the screen portion. I usually use a 1/8" thick panel with the wire mesh as the material but Mick made a good suggestion of setting it to glass then using the mesh material so as to adjust the transparency.

I do them individually so they show as three lines and I only allow one of the labels to show but change it to say "(3) 2x10 Flush Beam". But I am sure some others may have some good suggestions in this regards.

Makes sense. To be honest I never use chiefs support for decks because I always end up manually placing any beams and posts/footings. I generally re-frame the deck anyways and just use the auto feature to put it in there initially until I am happy with it. That allows me to use double or triple 2x if I want or to set a flush beam and posts at corners instead.

Nice Trick! So you "paint" the wire mesh to the glass? And that allows you to set the transparency?

Not sure of this but the idea of making it a balcony room comes to mind and makes me think that it may fill it in below? Or possibly just a wall material region?

I do quite a few screen porches but we never do two sets of panels. I usually have a solid (sided) wall below then posts going up to a beam but the posts are hidden in the wall below so it is not modeled. To do that, I use the method Steve did above, however instead of using solid and painting it I use a 1/8" thick panel with the wire mesh as the material. Very clean.

Definitely comes in handy sometimes. Random example is I was working on a faux victorian style home and they wanted a decorative railing above a small non-parapet roof trim where putting an actual railing would not work correctly due to the actual roof placement. Distribution line and a molding line for the railing, quick and simple.

Just to clarify when you have the 'T' turned on the dimensions are not there till you select the wall correct? If this is the case then I am pretty sure what they are telling you about the layer being turned off is the case. Maybe turn your dimensions on and see if they look about the same location? Basic Example: No Manual dimensions placed at all w/ temporary dimension on: Manual Dimensions placed and layer turned on: Manual Dimension layer turned off: Temporary Dimensions Turned on but the dimension layer off which shows the manual dimensions which over-ride the temporary once placed because chief thinks there is a reason you set them where you did and it is the information you want to see: