rgardner

Kind of a hog for time, but I have also used a straight wall and added in a shaped window pass through with all of the settings adjusted. no sill/frame/casing/etc.

This was going to be my suggestion and my suspicion if it isn't fixing it by rebuilding it. The ceiling plane is probably going through the start of the truss at least which would cause the truss to build to the ceiling plane. If you upload the plan file as Chop says then someone can figure it out for you.

Did you by chance just copy one of the others? If so you will need to Force truss rebuild (right top option).

Glad it helped.

I only did a quick attempt with that one wall to the right to see if that was what you were looking for, but yes if you do that on the balcony wall as well it should work. just set it to 0 off the floor so it knows that the portion to build between platforms needs to be the pony wall material and everything above the 0" level should be the upper wall.

Like this?

If you send it twice without moving the layout box and/or resizing them they should land in the same spot. Then adjust the layout box how you want it and group select both to move them???

54’ was always Max in Washington state. 46 in upper Wisconsin due to terrain.

I have used a simple polyline with background fill set to 10-20% transparency. I do them all the time with interior wall elevations where I want to showcase say a shower detail but also allow the vanity to be seen for easy reference.

86’ long truss??? Sounds like a three piece truss to me...

Have you tried using a roof beam set to that size?

Try the right mouse button. He might have a special hotkey set he forgot to mention.

Looks like a dormer with a window that is oversized/out of proportion.

If I understand what you are trying to do here it looks like a true corner cabinet without a diagonal door. Place a corner cabinet size it to the 39" you want each direction and at the bottom of the first page of the cabinet dbx you will see diagonal door (make sure that is unchecked to make it squared off like you show above.) It will show as two doors but generally these type of doors with the hinges in the corner and on one side will look like two doors close to each other. You can mess around with blanks and separations to get it sized how you want for the door.

I was looking for these a while back as well to show on a nice elevation view for a project I had. I ended up using one of the existing elevation trees and just closing the polylines myself and blocking it. You still have to unblock it so that the trunk stayed separate from the foliage but here is my little one that I made. Only took about 10-15 minutes to close it all off and trim. 2d-filled tree.calibz

I was planning to but power went out here right before so I was on my cell phone in the hammock instead of on my computer. Forced long weekend.. haha

@ChiefUserBigRob seems like a pretty good deal...

Was thinking the same as Erick. A backup might help. Depending on how you built the model if everything is set within the materials dbx instead of painted you may just be able to use the “paint-can” tool and select the plan option with the use default material selected and “paint one of the walls and everything that has that material will be set back to its default material/color. But that is only if you set everything directly instead of painting colors/materials.

Version Y1???

The SSA advantages on its own are generally enough to justify it to me but add in the free upgrade to the newest version makes it a no brainer for me. X12 to X11 I would estimate as a whole saves me at least 1 hour if not many more on every job due to just the small changes. That really adds up to me over a years time.

Well put. If you are using Chief as your tool of trade keep it sharp and upgrade to stay up to date. The ssa program is an inexpensive way to keep it up to date, have free access to the latest catalogs, as well as tech support. It’s less than $45 a month for a tool that can make you tens or even hundreds of thousands every year.

I usually stay away from these as I don't see a lot of value in complaining but I do see a value in both the upvote and downvote when used properly. I stalked these boards for quite some time before I started contributing and asking questions. In my case when i was newer to the forum If I was researching a question I had and reading through the forums and came across someone who said "do it this way" and I saw a bunch of downvotes, (usually a couple of declining comments as well) and then someone like @Alaskan_Son, @solver, @glennw or another power user come on and say "do it like this" and I see a bunch of upvotes. It is very easy to see what the general consensus is regarding the best or even the correct method. If you spend any time on the Facebook groups and see some of the advice (granted the advice on chief talk is at a much higher echelon of quality and precision.) you will see TONS of users who are giving completely incorrect advice on how to do something and basically training bad usage habits, such as manually adjusting walls when an attic wall is not showing correctly instead of going to the attic level to find they had deleted it somehow and there is an invisible wall keeping it from building correctly as a typical example. Chieftalk maintains a much higher level of accuracy due to the power users being so generous with their time and advice. If anyone comes on and gives incorrect advice it is almost always corrected and the person researching can see ok this person with 2 upvotes says do it this way or this user with 3000 says this way it becomes obvious which is correct. Now that being said in NO WAYS should they be used for personal vendettas or just because you disagree with their opinion. But I can understand why in this case some of the downvotes were done because the receiver was telling NEWER users to not do something which the general consensus and even Chief themselves (shown by Dermot's comment) are recommending as best practices and how the program was designed to be used. This to many appears to be misleading advice and other users (I did not actually downvote it although I was tempted to do so,) helped to show that with the downvotes. This is the value that I see with the upvotes especially and in SOME FEW CASES the downvote. Now everyone has their own workflow so to an advanced user as many on this thread are it is basically useless to argue changes to their workflow unless they are requesting information as they are considering adjusting their usage. But for NEWER users the more advanced users if they feel inclined to comment to help them should be careful about personal opinions regarding new tools or the generally acceptable and recommended workflow practices. Again my two cents free of charge and I hope it is taken at it's intention as a personal observation of what has gone down on this thread and the other and the viewpoint of how I considered the votes and ratings when I was "stalking" the forums before as a new user. Hope everyone has an amazing weekend, and stay safe!

Thanks for that Scott. We are without power so my cell phone died before it finished but it was nice to hear about other’s workflow when it comes to saved plan views.

If they are set to automatic heights that means there is an invisible wall that is in that same space keeping the attic walls from being built. Go to your attic level, turn on attic and invisible walls and delete them all twice with auto attic wall build turned on. Should clean it up.

Is it possible you manually adjusted your walls in an elevation mode? If so that turns off the automatic wall sizing you want on to fill the "gap". Select all of your walls in plan view, open the wall dbx and on the structures tab make sure the first two radial buttons (default wall top and bottom height). is checked. That should fix the "gap" problem.