thorn-ecoc Posted October 7, 2014 Share Posted October 7, 2014 This has most likely been covered somewhere, but for the sake of time (mine), can someone explain what settings are causing the gap at the top to the gable wall and what options I have to get rid of it. I need it to go away both when using soffits and when not using soffits. Picture and plan attached..........Thanks I must admit CA roof settings are somewhat confusing to me. Here, we have rafters and trusses and 2x fascia. The sub fascia seem to get in my minds way, but if I am correct, it is needed to set the depth of the rafter tails. Baseline height too is confusing. Seems like top plate height would better......to me anyway. view.PDF Gap.plan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rlackore Posted October 7, 2014 Share Posted October 7, 2014 I'm not a roof expert, but I can tell you that the gap varies with the rafter depth - the deeper the rafter, the wider the gap. I'll keep thinking - but probably won't figure it out before one of the experts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbaehmer Posted October 7, 2014 Share Posted October 7, 2014 Change your rafter depth in the roof plane dialogue box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbaehmer Posted October 7, 2014 Share Posted October 7, 2014 Here is a picture of where to change it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rlackore Posted October 7, 2014 Share Posted October 7, 2014 Change your rafter depth in the roof plane dialogue box. But what if the OP wants 9-1/4" rafters? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbaehmer Posted October 7, 2014 Share Posted October 7, 2014 Adjust the Gable Fascia and Sub Fascia accordingly. Make the Gable Sub-fascia 9.25" and the fascia 11.25" or to what is desired. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRAWZILLA Posted October 7, 2014 Share Posted October 7, 2014 If you have turned off auto roofs, you might have to adjust the roof in the z- direction to get it to set on the plate line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kbird1 Posted October 7, 2014 Share Posted October 7, 2014 Adjust the Gable Fascia and Sub Fascia accordingly. Make the Gable Sub-fascia 9.25" and the fascia 11.25" or to what is desired. had the same problem recently and this is what it was.....makes sense the fly rafter is generally the same size as the common rafters and the gable fascia on size larger. M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACADuser Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 In elevation you can select the gable wall and drag the gap closed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dshall Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 In elevation you can select the gable wall and drag the gap closed. Nuts, if you are dragging it down you are doing it the hard way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thorn-ecoc Posted October 8, 2014 Author Share Posted October 8, 2014 Yea, don't want to drag it.........that's why I asked. If I set everything to 9 1/4" rafter, all sub fascia etc. It still isn't right. (see pic) left side is with soffit, right is without soffit. Both look wrong. gable.PDF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dshall Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 Yea, don't want to drag it.........that's why I asked. If I set everything to 9 1/4" rafter, all sub fascia etc. It still isn't right. (see pic) left side is with soffit, right is without soffit. Both look wrong. Thanks for asking the question AND POSTING THE PLAN. The problem has to do with your wall definition and quite frankly I am not as well versed on this as I should be. Select the wall, open the dvx, WALL TYPES<DEFINE< and uncheck the check marks for MAIN LAYERS at layer 1 & 3. The only main layer should be layer 2. You will now find the sheathing goes up to the roof sheathing and all is well. By checking layer 1 as you did, I believe what was happening is the RAFTER was building to the face of that layer, in other words, the sheathing was stopping at underside of the rafter. By unchecking layer 1 as a main layer, the siding can now fly by up to roof sheathing. The option to have several main layers defined in the wall dvx came out in x6 I believe. Not sure why or how I would use this.... I need to study up on it. Anybody use multiple layers in wall dvx and why? I may have spoken to soon, this works well for the soffited roof, for the roof without a soffit, zero out the depth of the GABLE SUB FASCIA and all will be well. I do not understand why we have the option to ACTIVATE EAVE SUB FASCIA but we do not have the option to ACTIVATE GABLE SUB FASCIA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACADuser Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 I have the same problem with my 8" stucco wall. BellaVistaLot3-11.plan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dshall Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 I have the same problem with my 8" stucco wall. Please give me a pic of the specific location. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dshall Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 I am assuming you are talking about the gable wall. If this is the case I need to know if the block wall has a sill plate on top and if there is a rafter on sill plate to roof sheathing and if you want whatever finish is on block wall to go to underside of roof sheathing. There are many possible details of how to finish this, what does the detail look like. Can you give me a detail of this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gawdzira Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 Change the main layer to only the outside material as shown and the stucco goes up. I tried the block layer but that did not work. I would have thought the block layer would be the correct main layer but not according the CA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACADuser Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 But what if the OP wants 9-1/4" rafters? That fixed it for me. I guess somewhere there is a default that I need to change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe_Carrick Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 I have the same problem with my 8" stucco wall. I think you have a problem with your Wall Definition. You indicate the exterior material is stucco but it's 7-5/8" thick and evidently you want to use CMU with a stucco coating on the exterior. You should add an exterior layer to the wall definition. 1" Stucco 7-5/8" CMU 3/4" Air Gap 1/2" Drywall Make Layer 2 the Main Layer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thorn-ecoc Posted October 8, 2014 Author Share Posted October 8, 2014 Scott, Thanks, Selecting only layer 2 seems to have done it. There is still one small area (shown) that is not correct, but I guess I'll just have to do the drag thing. gable.PDF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACADuser Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 I think you have a problem with your Wall Definition. You indicate the exterior material is stucco but it's 7-5/8" thick and evidently you want to use CMU with a stucco coating on the exterior. You should add an exterior layer to the wall definition. 1" Stucco 7-5/8" CMU 3/4" Air Gap 1/2" Drywall Make Layer 2 the Main LayerWall Definition.JPG Ha! funny man. I guess you aren't buying the stucco. Stucco is lucky if you get 5/8, here well specify : STUCCO NOTE : ALL REFERENCES TO "STUCCO" ON THESE PRINTS SHALL BE INTERPRETED AS MEANING "DECORATIVE CEMENTIOUS FINISH" , SHALL BE LESS THAN 5/8" IN THICKNESS AND COMPLY WITH ASTM C 926 & ASTM C 1063 And all dimensions are to outside of block so stucco is ignored for dimensions & at typical 3/8" is not worth showing. Just my take. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACADuser Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 I am assuming you are talking about the gable wall. If this is the case I need to know if the block wall has a sill plate on top and if there is a rafter on sill plate to roof sheathing and if you want whatever finish is on block wall to go to underside of roof sheathing. There are many possible details of how to finish this, what does the detail look like. Can you give me a detail of this? The actual construction is a pre manufactured gable truss that sits on the cmu wall, no plate. If the wind load was too great then a cmu wall would extends up with a rake beam to cap the wall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe_Carrick Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 When you want the Gable End to be wood framed - add a short (1/16" tall) 2nd floor with wood walls. That will stop the CMU at the ceiling and everything above will be wood framed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe_Carrick Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 Ha! funny man. I guess you aren't buying the stucco. Stucco is lucky if you get 5/8, here well specify : STUCCO NOTE : ALL REFERENCES TO "STUCCO" ON THESE PRINTS SHALL BE INTERPRETED AS MEANING "DECORATIVE CEMENTIOUS FINISH" , SHALL BE LESS THAN 5/8" IN THICKNESS AND COMPLY WITH ASTM C 926 & ASTM C 1063 And all dimensions are to outside of block so stucco is ignored for dimensions & at typical 3/8" is not worth showing. Just my take. Here in California stucco is 1" with a waterproof membrane and wire lath but whatever the thickness, Chief expects there to be a surface exterior layer - outside of the main layer - which is why I suggested that you modify your Wall Definition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dshall Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 When you want the Gable End to be wood framed - add a short (1/16" tall) 2nd floor with wood walls. That will stop the CMU at the ceiling and everything above will be wood framed. Or you could select the wall at the second floor/attic and change it to a wood wall. This is another argument for creating more floor than you need. If you do that, CA is not trying to building the attic wall that matches the CMU wall below, it you who is deciding what kind of "attic wall" you will be employing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebdesign Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 It's the wall definition, like Joe, Scott & others have said. Chief builds the wall main layer to the bottom of the rafter, which is "real world" & extends all layers outside the main layer to the roof gable/eave soffit. This allows eave & gable details to be defined properly. Define walls like they are put together. & roofs too. As best as Chief will allow anyway That gets the best results in 3D. w/ regard to attic walls, as long as there are no rooms directly abv on the floor/attic abv & the entire gable wall is one wall type & aligned vertically, I just have Chief "balloon thru cl'g" in the Structure tab of the wall spec dbx. Then there is no attic wall & the wall framing is continuous, which is how most all gable walls are built nowadays (at least around here). If roof framing will be trusses, as soon as you add a truss over the gable wall, Chief reframes the wall & stops the wall framing at truss BC(cl'g hgt). In the case where the gable attic wall needs to be a different wall type than wall below, simply go to the flr/attic abv, select the attic wall, change the wall type & remove the attic wall definition in the General tab of the Wall Spec dbx. Chief will not replace that wall when w/f/c's are rebuilt, & will build wall correctly to roof (provided the wall top/bot remain at default hgts). I don't see any need for a 1/16" flr. You can also disable auto regeneration of attic walls in Wall Defaults/General Wall Defaults. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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