DianeP Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 Does anyone know if in real life you can cut a little bit out of the bottom of a stair stringer. I have a client that wants to recess his refrigerator under the stairs a little bit so that it more closely meets the depth of the cabinets, I have done this with CA using a doorway without casings that is just a little taller and wider than his refrigerator. It fits and barely clears the stinger. I was curious if the stringer becomes a problem in maneuvering the refrigerator into place, can they be notched on the bottom. It wouldn't be a lot, maybe a 3" x 3" notch. If it can be, what would the maximum amount allowed be? Thanks!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gawdzira Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 Draw a section of your situation. Notching the bottom of stair stringer without a wall below to carry it sounds like a bad idea in text. Can you support it at the notch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaskan_Son Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 Does anyone know if in real life you can cut a little bit out of the bottom of a stair stringer. I have a client that wants to recess his refrigerator under the stairs a little bit so that it more closely meets the depth of the cabinets, I have done this with CA using a doorway without casings that is just a little taller and wider than his refrigerator. It fits and barely clears the stinger. I was curious if the stringer becomes a problem in maneuvering the refrigerator into place, can they be notched on the bottom. It wouldn't be a lot, maybe a 3" x 3" notch. If it can be, what would the maximum amount allowed be? Thanks!!Totally depends on the situation, length of stair run, whether or not there is additional support or reinforcement, etc. but the short answer is NO. 3" x 3" would remove the vast majority of the remaining structural portion of your average 2x12 stringer...might only leave 1" or so of material to support the stairs in many situations. Just bear in mind that your not really talking about notching a 2x12 (or whatever the stringers are cut from). Those 2x12s have already been substantially compromised by the triangular notches cut on the top...usually reducing the effective remaining member to around maybe 5" (if memory serves me correctly). So you're really talking about putting a 3" notch in a 5" piece of material. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gawdzira Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 Also, I have moved to using LVL's for stingers. 2x12 dimensional lumber is just too unreliable for my comfort. I generally use 1 3/4" x 11 7/8" LVL material Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 More than one way to skin a cat (odd expression). There are several ways to mitigate placing a notch in a stringer - Simpson strong tie etc to reinforce the notched section. It will require a letter from an engineer most likely for you to do something like that. You might even get away with sistering dimensional lumber to fix- but depends what your conditions are. ...but as Michael and Alan said its just notching the stringer is a bad idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRAWZILLA Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 min. 6" of meat leftover after the notch is ok Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dshall Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 min. 6" of meat leftover after the notch is ok That is my rule of thumb. I have started using 2x14 in lieu of the lvl's, my clientele are not as wealthy as Alan's clientele. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRAWZILLA Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 yep, 2 x 14's for me too. Plan check has caught me many times for not putting that 6" in the section Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard_Morrison Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 If the stringer is nailed to the wall at each stud, probably isn't acting like a beam. I think more specifics are needed, but I would run it by an engineer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis_Gavin Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 Where do you guys get 2x14's? Special order? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRAWZILLA Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 2x14 are pretty much a standard size here. I also use them for floor joists @ 24" o.c. when I attach to existing trusses and cut them off above for a new floor, b/c trusses are usually at 24" o.c. That way the ceiling gets to remain. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parkwest Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 Buy a smaller refrig for under the stairs... Don't notch the stringer unless it is attached to wall. Might be worth a call to the local building dept... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TacomaTR Posted July 10, 2020 Share Posted July 10, 2020 Similar question. I have 2 6x6 posts, centered under new deck stairs with Four 2x12 Stringers. I was thinking of notching the 2 center stringers in order to hang/install a 4x6 beam between those posts using Simpson hangers. So the notched stringers would rest squarely on the new beam. Doing this to add more support cuz I have the 4x6 scrap left over, might as well put it to work! Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommy1 Posted July 10, 2020 Share Posted July 10, 2020 On 8/1/2016 at 3:53 PM, DRAWZILLA said: 2x14 are pretty much a standard size here. I also use them for floor joists @ 24" o.c. when I attach to existing trusses and cut them off above for a new floor, b/c trusses are usually at 24" o.c. That way the ceiling gets to remain. Have never seen 2x14 lumber here however I suppose you could special order anything but don't believe you'll find it in stock in Houston. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dshall Posted July 10, 2020 Share Posted July 10, 2020 On 8/1/2016 at 1:53 PM, DRAWZILLA said: 2x14 are pretty much a standard size here. I also use them for floor joists @ 24" o.c. when I attach to existing trusses and cut them off above for a new floor, b/c trusses are usually at 24" o.c. That way the ceiling gets to remain. Yep, we spec out 2x14's here also. Especially for stair stringers. Give us a few years and our stair stringers will be 2x18's. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TacomaTR Posted July 10, 2020 Share Posted July 10, 2020 10 hours ago, solver said: @TacomaTR Best to start a new topic in Chatroom since your question is not about using Chief. Please delete your comment above via Options. I don’t understand. It’s seems my question is directly in line with the original posters question and all subsequent replies??? None of the replies are about using Chief. It’s a “real life” question almost identical to the original post??? Am I missing something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HumbleChief Posted July 10, 2020 Share Posted July 10, 2020 I think the answer to the original question depends on the nature of the inspections/permits and/or lack thereof. If it was me at my house over the weekend it would be down right easy to find a way to brace what's left of the stringer. A couple of glued and screwed 3/4" plywood gussets comes to mind. or steel plates, or...Pretty sure whatever the condition I, as most of the builders here, could find a way to make it strong enough to present no future danger. If, on the other hand you are designing the bracing for permits or an inspector all bets are off and you might need an engineer to verify a fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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