tommy1

I generally stay very busy. My engineer refers people to me which is about 90% of my work...so much that I turn down at least one job/week. I'm now retired and want to slow down but so far that's not happening. Wish I had another good Chief user in Houston.

I recently had this same problem sort of. I originally did the measure, existing and proposed plan. Gave the plan back to the contractor to review. A couple of years later now, I just got notified that the builder and homeowner made huge changes. The new plan didn't meet local deed restrictions so it had to be dramatically downsized. The problem is that the builder using Chief isn't good with the program and had the plan messed up bad. I won't do this again. Now, once I start a plan, no one else will play with or alter the plan. If the builder requires the plan file, I'll now turn down the job.

98% of my construction plans are stamped by an engineer who does markups and we go back and forth until it's done. I draw the construction plans. This always saves the client money. I have the owner or builder pay the engineer directly. Some of the engineers will only do the engineering if they supply their own plan which is 10 times the cost to homeowner or builder which means I basically provide a conceptual plan only with no structural of any kind such as notes and details. I do not deliver construction plans done by me without having an engineering stamp. If the engineer supplies their own plan, then I'll provide a pdf of the conceptual plan and create dwgs of the plan to send to the engineers. My dwgs are usually stripped down of things like cabinets and other things since the engineer is really only concerned about structure. My engineer that does markups is extremely reasonable in his prices. The other engineers are outrageous in their pricing.

I export DWGs to engineers every now and then and receive next to nothing for complaints. I can really only think of one in the last 8 years or so that had problems but I don't think he was very good with AutoCad. However, I would only give a PDF if possible.

Sorry Eric, You're correct. I phrased it wrong. Molding profile is correct. I have a lot of these for window lintels. I do remodels for homes that have this all the time.

I personally would do that by making a molding polyline. Once you add it to the window lintel, resize the window all you want....it will work just fine. If you want me to show you how to do it via Zoom, let me know. 832-754-6160.

If it is an island room, just create a new layer for that wall. Put the wall on that new layer and turn it off so it doesn't display in plan view.

I believe he's now okay using his dwg in his plan. Helped him via Zoom.

Yes, please let us know what you find out. I've never experienced this issue.

Very smart approach and is why I import this way too. I learned to do this a long time ago.

For some of the remodels I do here, The City of Houston sometimes requires this but it has to be done by a licensed electrician to be submitted.

I just got this laptop not too long ago and have no problems. See my specs below.

I personally would reconfigure one of the two structures or both to make the roof work easily or have a detached garage with a breezeway.

Sounds like a video card issue.

You could also use walls or even a slab. Kinda depends on the situation.

As Marc mentioned, if it's blocked, unblock it first. If it's not blocked and your multi-selecting text, try opening one text and see if you can edit it.

I just show a cad block in electrical plan. I don't use a 3D symbol for I'll never show it in a render.

This is what I always do and works just fine.

I've done this a lot with patios and carports that are free-standing. If I have troubles making Chief build it the way I want, I don't fight it (no time for that), I just do all posts and beams manually. Goes pretty quick.

As David commented, once you've built framing and then you make structural changes, you then have to rebuild framing again.

If your just wanting a door with 3 lites at the top. Make it. Just use a "glass panel" door type in the door dbx> raise the bottom up> add manual mullions.

This is how I always do it.

This issue has been around for a long time. Since I don't use the materials list, I've deleted the house wrap in all my exterior walls that call for it in my template plan.

That is correct. Manual dimension.

Yes it will.