joey_martin

You need to go click on the cabinet it is originally attached to, click it, hit tab, then delete it.

Yep

As said, you have to make your own joists and beams. Make one and copy/paste, it's not too bad.

I also have... https://www.tracker-software.com/product/pdf-xchange-viewer

You're very welcome. That's debatable at times, at least to some.

@GeneDavis when they click on seeking services over there it sends them here. @QwertyGraves I don't use MAC so couldn't tell you about that. Here you go. The roof did not disappear when I used my method. BTW....don't drag walls up and down, that causes a lot of issues. There are setting to stop walls at roofs. Roof Help-Fixed.zip

Once you reset the ceiling height on the first floor, select the roof planes and subtract the 12" from their baseline heights while have the checkbox to retain the pitch. Really takes about 10 second to accomplish this task.

I believe that assessment is correct. When I click it, my line weights don't change.

I can count on one hand how many times I use that layer in all the years I have used Chief. Until you posted that question I forgot it existed.

Finished product when printed to PDF...

Here is what my exterior wall looks like. I want my EXTERIOR wall layer to be heavier so it is set to my WALLS, NORMAL layer of 10. I want the INTERIOR wall layer to be lighter, and all interior walls are set to this as well. They are a 6 and I uncheck the BY LAYER box so that I can control that line weight and not my layer settings.

Just open the stair and add a rise.

Hit the TAB key after you click, you are selecting the room and not the wall. Also, there is a setting in the defaults to change that behavior to select the wall before the room.

Turn on auto roofs on and let Chief figure out the geometry and fine tune if it's not right.

Open the pattern and adjust the verticle offset. Before..... After...

Looks like you accidently hit the AUTO INTERIOR DIMENSION tool.

I have both of them set up identically. That will save you a headache down the road when sending drawings to layout and not getting the notification that the line scales don't match. I'm sure there will be some other ideas and opinion today, but this is what worked for me, and I have been using this set up since v9.5.

The default line weights, I believe, date back to pen plotters and the .18mm pens that they used. I remember the days of the early pen plotters, and most of the default numbers match those old pens. So, years ago I started playing with my own system for line weights and came up with this setting.... This allows me to set my weights on a 0 to 20 scale. 0 being the thinnest and 20 being the thickest. Works well for me.

The sub-floor.....0'-0"

You need to move the overall elevation distance from the 0'-0" spot. All those terrain lines get the info from the main distance from 0'-0"

The room formed below your stairs is where the problem is. It's floor is 1 7/8" lower. Select that room and click on the little wrench in the structure tab.

Sloping lots are a different animal than the flat lots we have here. And when the door/window is a part of the foundation wall system, it's easier for me to keep track of them on the same level. I have some saved plan views set up, but every time I try to use them I just end up confusing myself and deleting them. They are in my template, but honestly I'm too busy lately to be bothered with them.

I tried that method once, but after working the way I do, I did not like that even one little bit. I do about 90% basements, so having solid anno/layer sets have been best for my workflow.

Annotation Sets (now called default sets) and/or plan views (which I have not used as of yet) are going to be your best friends if you do many basements. These are from a walk-out set. These are completed with Anno/Layer sets. I can control all walls, notes, dimension, everything from the same plan file with a layer set for the foundation plan, and a different set for the floor plan.

Simpson Door catalog.