joey_martin

Turn on auto roofs on and let Chief figure out the geometry and fine tune if it's not right.

Open the pattern and adjust the verticle offset. Before..... After...

Looks like you accidently hit the AUTO INTERIOR DIMENSION tool.

I have both of them set up identically. That will save you a headache down the road when sending drawings to layout and not getting the notification that the line scales don't match. I'm sure there will be some other ideas and opinion today, but this is what worked for me, and I have been using this set up since v9.5.

The default line weights, I believe, date back to pen plotters and the .18mm pens that they used. I remember the days of the early pen plotters, and most of the default numbers match those old pens. So, years ago I started playing with my own system for line weights and came up with this setting.... This allows me to set my weights on a 0 to 20 scale. 0 being the thinnest and 20 being the thickest. Works well for me.

The sub-floor.....0'-0"

You need to move the overall elevation distance from the 0'-0" spot. All those terrain lines get the info from the main distance from 0'-0"

The room formed below your stairs is where the problem is. It's floor is 1 7/8" lower. Select that room and click on the little wrench in the structure tab.

Sloping lots are a different animal than the flat lots we have here. And when the door/window is a part of the foundation wall system, it's easier for me to keep track of them on the same level. I have some saved plan views set up, but every time I try to use them I just end up confusing myself and deleting them. They are in my template, but honestly I'm too busy lately to be bothered with them.

I tried that method once, but after working the way I do, I did not like that even one little bit. I do about 90% basements, so having solid anno/layer sets have been best for my workflow.

Annotation Sets (now called default sets) and/or plan views (which I have not used as of yet) are going to be your best friends if you do many basements. These are from a walk-out set. These are completed with Anno/Layer sets. I can control all walls, notes, dimension, everything from the same plan file with a layer set for the foundation plan, and a different set for the floor plan.

Simpson Door catalog.

You will need an invisible wall separating the porch so that you can have no ceiling checked in that section yet have a ceiling on the other section. From there, either use framing members or polysolids to create the "ceiling" surface.

Call it a garage. Are you not using the room names and the defaults and other items they can do for your plan?

Main level sub-floor is 0'-0" work from there. Save yourself the headache and work the way Chief works.

Shoot me an email, and I'll give you a quote, but I can tell you that just from looking at that floor plan pic that your stairs will not pass code for headroom at the bottom. That will need addressed. joeymdp at gmail dot com

It's a soldier course.

Would need to see the plan file or have a look at the garage setting. Does the actual garage door work as expected?

I have been doing this a long time and every builder I work with wants the living area. which is the outside of the framing minus the garage and perhaps the open to below areas. Perhaps they are asking for the "wrong" info, but I have been giving them this info since the early 90's and you are the first to make such a distinction.

In my opinion, and it's just mine....the Andersen window catalog is almost useless. You you can snap a window in, but as you have found it leave more work to be completed. When I am using Andersen I still need my product guide opened so that I can input the codes for the schedule, and confirm the sizes, as I have found multiple sizes are not correct per the Andersen product guide. In short...you are not missing anything.

I have an HP Envy desktop I picked up at Frys for about $600. I added a Nvidia graphics card. Does everything I need from a desktop.

Received an email this morning asking for electrical plan help. The biggest question seems to be, "how the heck can I control the arc of the connections!!" My tip, for those that don't know, is that the arcs are created in clockwise circles. As you are drawing the arcs between switch and fixture, think of the direction you are drawing around a circle (or clock) and it will speed up your electrical plan work not having to manipulate those arcs.

I do what you are doing. Decks can be a pain at times getting the stairs to match up. EDIT..and even with the decks, there is framing cleanup with the beams and resetting the posts. Either way there is more work to be done to get it right.

You mean like this?

You are probably changing the bounding box and not the actual symbol. What are your steps?