glennw

This should work... If you select a roof (say, by its hip) and open its dbx, go to the Selected Line panel. You can see both the Projected Length and Length At Pitch. Work out the ratio between the two and then apply that to a Unit Conversion similar to what you did previously with the scale. You should then be able to use the Primary and Secondary dimension formats and dimension roof planes showing both dimensions.

Do a Perspective Full overview. Make sure the Perspective Full Overview is the active window. Go 3D>Walkthroughs>Create Orbital Walkthrough Path (you don't get this option in a plan view). In plan view you should now have a full circular path around the model and the Walkthrough Preview window should be open. Open the Walkthrough Paths dbx>Camera panel>Walkthrough Camera Layer Set and hide the layers you don't want like roof, ceilings, ridges, etc. Or...create a new layer set and use that.

If you can get hold of a copy of Chief X10, it had a handy Print Model tool that may help with what you are doing.

I have requested custom door jamb profiles previously. Please send in a suggestion if it is something you would like to see.

Do you want number of sheets or square feet?

It looks to me like you have the upper walls designated as Foundation walls which provides a footing.

Even though the problem is solved this is just for your own edification so that you will know next time it happens. It looks to me like the drawing didn't change to metric - it change to decimal feet. This is caused by user error by going into Number Style (bottom left of the dbx) and selecting decimal feet. It then restored to the default on a reboot because it is a per session setting. No need to reboot to get it back to the format you want - open the Dialog Number/Angle Style dbx (by clicking Number Style) and change the selection.

A bit hard to tell from the pic, but they could be a Fleur-de-lis. https://www.familysearch.org/en/blog/fleur-de-lis-symbolism-and-meaning

Remove the molding from the room and then use a manual Molding Polyline located to suit.

It might be easier to use a Molding Polyline with a circular molding. Very easy to resize, stretch, change shape, etc.

Mark, Well done with the Style Palette - I forgot about that.

I figured out one way to do it, but with 50 windows it may take you some time. This is a single standard wall and standard window which works well both inside and outside. The window remains a standard window so that it can be edited in the normal way. The big problem is I have only been able to do one window at a time at this stage, but I will have another play at duplicating the window easily. Although once you have the method down pat, you could probably do them quickly. Are all the windows different sizes? Rendered: Vector:

I think I am going to let my post stand as is, apart from 2 points I want to clarify. Because they were Chief users. Who said anything about importing and changing real world data for method 3? I certainly didn't say that, nor didn't even imply it - that is your assumption. All the cases I have seen using the plus/minus method, the user has entered the elevation data with plus/minus values - they haven't imported and edited real world data. Method 3 is mainly used when the user doesn't have a level survey but rather measures existing site heights plus/minus from, say, an existing structure - usually the floor level of an existing building. Not at all an "incorrect method" or "bad practice" but rather a legitimate method that users should be aware of.

Why hit and run with a down vote. The least you can do is give a reason so that we might all learn something.

Gene, Just to complicate things a little. There are at least 3 ways to define the relativity of these heights (model/terrain) that I know of. 1. Use real world heights for both the model and terrain heights - what you originally asked for. 2. Use model heights based on zero and use real world heights for the terrain - what you ended up doing. 3. Use model heights based on zero and use terrain heights plus/minus from that. I would guess that 99.9% use method 2 - this is the standard way that Chief works and probably the most practical. In all the time I have been using Chief I have used method 1 maybe two times (at the clients request). I don't ever remember using method 3, but I am aware some users like it. You are probably better off leaving Flatten Pad unchecked and using other terrain elevation data (like Elevation regions) for which you will have more control.

I don't think they are 3D roof tiles They look like the Red Barrel Roof Tile material from the Chief library.

Change the Material List Calculation to Area.

Trim Framing To Soffits.

What I want to know is how do you stop the pillows from falling down when the bed folds up?

It looks like it is a solid railing. If so, change it back to a normal wall and edit the height and shape of the top in a section view.

Not joshin' you. I will explain what I did when I clean things up a bit, but a lot of it was trial and error. Does the railing have posts to beam, although you mention both newels and a beam above? There are going to be some things that will be hard to get 100% using standard Chief practices. I assume that grey beam across the large span is above the railing beam? What is the storey with that post in the centre of the large beam? Yes, a Zoom would make it a lot easier. I see you are in Naples, Florida - I am in Sydney, Australia and I am flexible with times. What sort of times are good for you?

Gene, Something like this - very difficult!!!

Post the plan please

I was just pointing out that if you draw your walls the wrong way (inside out), Chief will auto reverse them when you close a room, with this setting checked. Best to leave it checked. I wanted to make you aware that this can happen and may explain some things. Best not to spray materials onto walls as it can cause some of the problems you describe - better to change the wall definition.

Uncheck Automatic Rail Openings. Leave Allow Wrap checked. So are the wall and steps curved or a series of straight segments - it looks like they are straight? Draw your stairs going down from house to terrain with alt. (I am not sure that is absolutely necessary but I did it anyway.) It is important that all the stair sections are exactly the same, so best practice is to get one section as you want and then copy/paste as needed. They should auto wrap together. There is a different process for curved stairs. Draw your straight stairs as wide as you need. Select them and click on Flare/Curve Stairs on the Edit toolbar. You will get a triangular grip at the top and bottom of the stairs. You use these to pull a curve into the stairs. You can do a different radius for top and bottom if you want.