Log Homes


myrtsbnye
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Your question tweaked my curiosity so I went and checked out Chief's library and found a bunch of different log components.  I used individual 10" logs and 10" assembled corner components in the small model below.  Chief's windows don't insert into a wall cobbled together this way so I had to take one of its windows in another plan, isolate it and make it into a symbol.  Then it was a matter of creating a hole in the wall and then fitting the window symbol to the hole.

 

By far, the method Larry found in the Home Designer article would be much simpler and quicker to use IMO.  I think you could even put the log siding on the interior wall layer to get that complete log look. I also believe you could use Chief's assembled log corner sections the same as I have in this model. 

 

So, I have to conclude that it can be done.  Furthermore, I know there are many Chief users who have done log home designs with Chief so if you do a search, either on this forum or perhaps on the old forum, I am sure you will find some excellent feedback from those with real log design experience using Chief.

 

post-191-0-38331100-1426863446_thumb.jpg

 

I don't know if the logs and log components are available in Chief's free download version... you could install it and check or call and ask.  If not, you can purchase the software and test it for 30 days to see if it has what you need.  If not, you can return it and get your $ back.

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If you are doing full log homes rather than log siding..........

 

I use a single layer wall (transparent material) the thickness of the Logs.  If you want chinking you can make the original wall 3 layers with only the outer layers being transparent.

 

I place all windows and doors in those walls which provides the casings, etc.  Then I stack Log Symbols just as if I was building the log home in the real world.

 

This is the most realistic method I've found.

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  • 5 months later...

Adam, attached is the log home file, just so everyone knows this was done for demonstration only since the log home manufacture could not supply them with interior views of what their house would look like, I also made floor plan and kitchen changes for them in the design to what them were looking to accomplish, there is no roof work done on this plan, what you might get from this is the exterior log walls and I did make the railing spindles to match what would be supplied by the log home people

LOG HOME.zip

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  • 8 years later...
On 3/20/2015 at 10:07 AM, Joe_Carrick said:

If you are doing full log homes rather than log siding..........

 

I use a single layer wall (transparent material) the thickness of the Logs.  If you want chinking you can make the original wall 3 layers with only the outer layers being transparent.

 

I place all windows and doors in those walls which provides the casings, etc.  Then I stack Log Symbols just as if I was building the log home in the real world.

 

This is the most realistic method I've found.

The problem with this method is you can't cut the windows into the logs. You can put the logs around the windows but if a window opening cuts halfway through a log on the top or bottom of the opening you can't cut it out if you use the log symbols.
I have built whole log homes using polyline solid cylinders and then you can cut them away where the window top or bottom cuts into the log. But of course using solids create a huge surface count and bogs everything down.
One question I have is, why do the log symbols have less surface count and how can I draw my own logs with a lower surface count?
Or if I could take the log symbol and turn it into a solid that would be helpful too.

 

I built a lot of  log homes back in the 80s and 90s when they were popular and now a lot of new owners of those homes are coming back for remodels etc so I have had to draw a lot of these and have not found the best way to do it. Mostly I have used the log siding and a thick wall but if I want to take it to the next level I use the solids or the log symbols. I make layers for perlins, beams, log loft joists, log ends and log walls so then I can turn off layers I don't need as I am working to keep thing from bogging down.
I see this discussion is a few years old but I figured I would see what would come of this and if there are any new ideas.

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59 minutes ago, MN_JohnH said:

I have built whole log homes using polyline solid cylinders and then you can cut them away where the window top or bottom cuts into the log. But of course using solids create a huge surface count and bogs everything down.

Adjust the facet angle of your arcs on the polyline solid. 

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11 hours ago, Renerabbitt said:

Adjust the facet angle of your arcs on the polyline solid. 

Awesome! I knew there had to be a simple way but apparently I just didn't know what to search for.
Thanks! This is truly a game changer for me!

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I often have this problem where I create the log as a p-solid, I stack them up and cut out the window holes by creating a polyline solid block the size of the window and then
subtracting the block from the logs. Often on the top and bottom logs of the hole where the cut is only halfway through the log, I get some deforming.
I am not sure what causes this. I have created a simple log wall plan where this is happening and an image showing what I am talking about.

Untitled 3.jpg

Log problems.plan

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14 hours ago, Renerabbitt said:

Convert to polygons before you cut

OK, I give up.
I can't figure out what you mean by "convert to polygon" or how to do it. I have searched everything, (except where the actual information is obviously).
If you could help me with this that would be great.
Thanks,

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On 12/2/2023 at 9:18 AM, MN_JohnH said:

OK, I give up.
I can't figure out what you mean by "convert to polygon" or how to do it. I have searched everything, (except where the actual information is obviously).
If you could help me with this that would be great.
Thanks,

I found the tool to convert to polyline and I thought at first that was working but I see that I still have the same problems with the distorting of the shape after I cut into it by subtracting the other solid. But I can't find a tool for converting to polygon.

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From my post in another thread:

If you can use full log coursing (no horizontal cuts), which is probably preferable anyway, you may have some luck using a couple (depending on your window heights) of stacked molding polylines.

It may also depend on you corner detail - ie, mitre or extend through?

 

 

 

Screenshot 2023-12-04 at 10.26.53 am.jpg

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