MN_JohnH

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Everything posted by MN_JohnH

  1. If I have my plan open and I build a truss and space it 24" from the outside framing of an end wall and then drag copy the trusses across and create the end trusses, everything is all set, so then I use automatic framing build the framing for the roof so that I can get my lookouts and subfascia in place. When I do that, Chief put in it's own trusses and use those for the lookout framing and ignore the trusses I have put there. I have the plan attached again and you can see it built a second set of trusses and ignore mine. I am pretty sure I have done this in the past without this problem and I just watched a video the other day where he did it with success but it's not working for me. I agree with you on wanting things to be on the plan as they will be in real construction. Ultimately my truss guy will engineer the actual trusses but I like to be able to show him what I am thinking and show my guys what we are doing. I just want my drawings to be as accurate as possible, (that's why we are doing this, right?). The attached plan is not my actual project, that is just a sample building to show what I am having trouble with. The actual project is far to complex. Thanks, Raised bearing roof truss problem.plan
  2. Yes, I will just work it like this. I will build the trusses and then, when I am reasonably sure that my wall is done, I will edit it so that is it right in the cross section and any 3d framing view. (and hope that I don't accidentally reframe all or that wall again). I just was hoping there was an easier way. Sorry for dragging everyone down this rabbit hole. I still don't know why Chief wants to use it's own trusses after I have put mine in but I can work around that too. Thanks!
  3. You answered my question there, it's not an option. That's all I was really asking. I did try the splitting of the room and having a higher ceiling level. that works in a section view but the framing goes around the trusses even though I have the pockets in the trusses for them. It's not a big deal, I can deal with this in a couple CAD details, but I hear a lot of guys saying if you draw it the way it will be built the CAD details are easy so I figured I would give it a try. I have a screen shot of the framing around the trusses. The other question I had as to why Chief wants to draw it's own trusses over my customized trusses when i frame the roof still goes unanswered. But I will muddle along as always. Thanks for your patience.
  4. This is what I want to do but my question is, how do you set the top of that plate so that when you reframe that wall it frames to that level again? I know how to build and manipulate the trusses, I know how to manually raise the top plate and stretch my studs. I am thinking that is what you did here. But my hope is that there is a way to set the top height of the wall so that if I change a window in that wall or anything like that and want to reframe the wall, I don't have to manually adjust the top plate and stretch the studs every time.
  5. I want my windows to be higher and if I make it bearing higher up I can integrate a header up into the trusses.
  6. If I frame the roof and not the ceiling, I still get all the extra trusses. I am not sure what we are trying to accomplish there. Or maybe I am misunderstanding. All you need to do is raise the plates, and stretch the studs? That's a lot. And if I move a window or something and need to re frame the wall I will have to do it all over again? Also, what if I wanted to have some windows in that upper wall area above the normal ceiling height? I would have to frame that all by piece?
  7. Thanks for the responses. I guess I didn’t make it clear that I know how to draw the trusses. The problem I’m having is controlling where the walls frame to the truss. Basically, I can’t find any setting that lets me define the top of wall framing at a specific point on the truss. Yes, I can raise the roof and get the look I want, but when I reframe the walls I still end up with the same problem. For example, what if I want the wall to frame to the bottom chord of the truss? On the lower side I can accomplish that by setting the room ceiling height and not balloon framing through. But then the higher side frames to that same level. If I set the walls to balloon through, then the framing runs all the way to the top chord instead. What I need is a way to control the top plate height / bearing point of the wall framing relative to the truss. Right now, when the wall frames all the way to the top cord, the framing gets crazy because it tries to frame around all the truss members. My second problem is that once I manually draw and place my trusses, then build the roof framing, Chief creates another complete set of trusses automatically. So now I have duplicate trusses plus even more crazy wall framing, and it ignores the bearing points I established in my custom trusses. So I can build and customize the trusses fine (I think), including locking the envelope with bearing points, but I can’t get the walls to frame to those bearing points correctly. Again, my sample plan is attached. Raised bearing roof truss problem.plan
  8. I am wondering how to build a roof truss that bears on the top cord like this picture and then I would need to get the wall to frame up to that bearing point. I have a plan here where I was able to change the shape of the truss and I made the walls to balloon through ceiling and now they go all the way to the upper truss cord and don't stop at the bearing point I created in the trusses with the truss envelope. Also, how can I get the framing to use my trusses instead of making it's own trusses in addition to mine? Raised bearing roof truss problem.plan
  9. OK I think I figured it out. It is the pony lower wall wall properties setting that I need to change from the brick veneer to the fir stud. Once I change that everything seems to work fine. Seems like that was a setting in my template, I don't know what it didn't turn up as a problem before now.
  10. Thanks, that looks like it should work and when I open you plan I can see that the walls are lined up the way I want but when I go back to my plan I see I have the settings exactly the same as yours and the walls don't line up.
  11. Thanks for the try, and yes it is beautiful this time of year in MN before the bugs come out, (and if nobody throws a spark out the car window). On the plan I attached, I hadn't moved any walls or change any thing, i had just drawn 4 walls and built foundation and that is how it came out. I just tried setting the auto build foundation but that basically does what I already did, the same problem still exists. It seems to want to line up the exterior of my ICF wall to the exterior surface of the pony wall above. So I tried adding the stone veneer of the pony wall to the foundation wall but it still lines up the exterior of my ICF wall to the exterior surface of the pony wall above and now my stone veneer on the foundation wall protrudes past that pony wall surface above. I can meticulously go through and move all my foundation walls, (I did that once but upon rebuild I am here again). There has to be a setting that tells the walls which surfaces i want to align. Can't figure out what I am missing here. I just watch a video on foundation wall and they don't say anything about this. Their walls just lined up perfectly automatically with the exterior surface ignoring their pony wall. I change d my foundation to 8" CMU and the results are the same still, the exterior of the CMU lines up with the exterior of the pony wall above.
  12. Seems like there used to be a setting for lining up the surfaces of the foundation wall. I know it is here but I am not finding it. Foundation problem.zip
  13. Thanks, I guess I was looking at the main floor for settings. Makes sense. I will probably forget and need to ask again in a year. For selecting the rooms I just made a backup copy then eliminated walls until there was just one room and the made the changes and copied and pasted walls back. In the past when I have gone through and selected rooms there would always be a closet somewhere that you don't see and then later on it becomes evident that things are messed up. Anyway, thanks for the help.
  14. I am looking back at this as I have to do this again with a new plan. I have my floor plan done and now I want to arrange my floor to be as we talked about above. So one questions is, how can I select all the rooms at once instead of having to do each room by itself? And I am not getting the floor structure in an editable mode even on the sample plan here. It seems the setting might have changed since this question was first asked.
  15. Thanks guys, I guess this is right, I need another line. Seems like in the past I was able to just put a line at a different level than the terrain perimeter and it would just take the terrain at the level it is and flow to the one line. Sorry for the trouble.
  16. This is a first for me, I have never really had any problems with terrains with basic contours. I have a simple terrain here drawn and an elevation line and an elevation region at different levels. But in camera view the terrain is still level. It started in another plan but seems to be in this plan to when I simplified it just to see if it was a plan specific problem. If I keep playing and add some more drastic elevations in different place I can eventually get it to show some drastic results but it is not performing as normal. Is there a setting I changed somewhere without realizing it? Terrain problem.plan
  17. Thanks, I could find a way to eliminate the material on the cantilever but I just drew in invisible foundation walls and that fixed it. I figure it was something like that but I didn't think to try it. Thanks for leading me in the right direction.
  18. Thanks, The concrete is a 1.5" overpour for the floor heat, it is on top of the OSB sheathing. I don't think that would cause my problem but obviously I am missing something.
  19. I have a crawlspace under this addition and there is a surface there at the level of the bottom of the floor joist with no thickness and I can't click on it to figure out what it is. I can't get the file down to under 14mb even zipped so I have a link to a dropbox file https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/moyz5trozohubrrg0cycp/Problem.plan?rlkey=4fn1ul395kdfz0t0i5rtgaq63&st=i7jc3hjt&dl=0 That is not a room so there is not ceiling there I don't think. Camera #14 shows the space where the problem exists.
  20. Wow, yes that works. Seems a bit silly but OK. I just have to go through and change all my window sizes so the ROs are right. But at least I know it can be done for the future. Thanks!
  21. I am wondering if there is a way to raise up the window sill on the interior? We like to make the top of the window sill flush with the top of the inside of the bottom jamb so it becomes all one level, without that step shown here.
  22. Thanks, at least it's not just me this time.
  23. It seems that when I try using TJIs for roof rafters, they don't automatically size down to the sub-facia size on the overhangs like the regular lumber ones normally do. Is there a way of making this happen? I am using the I-joists for the roof framing and I want to frame the overhangs with 2x6 sistered on. I can detail it out on the plan but I was wondering if there was a way to sort of make it show on a framing plan without having my I-joist rafters extending all the way out? rafter.plan
  24. The plan is over 80 mb. I spent a bunch of time trying to strip it down and got down to about 40mb, still way to big. That's why I put it in a drop box to share with the original post. It was the only option I could come up with.Yes, the wall should show siding above and drywall inside the house below the roof. That is really the core of my question, why this is not working. Thanks for your time looking at this and responding.
  25. Thanks, The pony wall is set to the interior wall type, that happens automatically apparently when you check the box "lower wall type if split by butting roof" . Maybe that is not what I want, I guess I could just keep it as in interior walls and use wall material regions for the siding. I found I had a ceiling height in one of the rooms that was causing the wall not to build up into the peak, (even though no flat ceiling over this room was checked). So I guess I will forget the different wall types above and below the roof and set it to interior and the I can put the thicker sheathing and siding as a material regions on the exterior.