CJSpud

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Everything posted by CJSpud

  1. If your shade is suppose to look like a lamp shade, use a 2nd cone with slightly smaller dimensions, combine them (same center axis) and then do a subtraction of the smaller diameter cone from your larger diameter flat topped cone.
  2. Dermot: Thanks for the tip on breaking the stairs etc. I think it would be nice if that disconnect tool showed up next to the stairs edit tools in the edit tool bar. I don't think I've ever used that tool before. Nevertheless, that's a great way to edit a stairs.
  3. I have found USGS maps on line with contours for the areas where some of my projects were located. Unfortunately, there are no elevations data bases the way I've used those maps. I just rescale them as best I can and then recreate the elevation contours using elevation lines and points. Keep in mind that unless you can get a 7.5 minute map, the contour intervals are large. If the area is not very steep, this method is more or less useless, especially if the property isn't very big.
  4. Or maybe use the landing tool. Put it at whatever elevation it needs to be. Then you can use the Alt key to draw the stairs from the deck down to the landing and the same for the stairs from the landing either down to the ground or down to another landing etc.
  5. Doug: For stairs that need to be code compliant, I am still wondering why the min/max values you are suggesting couldn't be hard coded in the software. But, if other countries have different standards, then maybe that is not a good idea. I am reasonably happy with the way the tread depths and riser heights work at this time. I've got a hunch that there won't be too many users that will want to change this functionality of the stair tool ... but it never hurts to try. Maybe your ideas will lead to even something better as I think the stairs tools are regularly being looked at for improvements.
  6. Mick: Your findings seem to mirror mine. Not a real big deal to change the number of treads once you place the stairs. Seems like they could fine tune the coding to allow you to spec the number of treads. I won't be losing any sleep over that aspect of the stairs tools though.
  7. Doug: It works for me. Riser height is dependent on the number of treads. With the bullet in "Lock Tread Depth", if you input a different default tread depth, the value you input should hold once you close the dialog and then place a stairs in the plan. One thing I did notice is that when changing the tread depth value (with the bullet for Lock Tread Depth" still selected), if I also change the number of treads from 17 (seems to be a default setting - I am using a 109.125 ceiling height) to some other value, and then click in the plan to place a new stairs, the number of treads for the stairs changes to back to 17. I then have to manually change the number of treads to what I want. I guess I've never noticed this before and it seems like it might be something that should be changed but I think I'd want to play with it a little more to see why Chief makes it work that way. When I change the number of treads before closing the dialog, I can see whether or not the number of treads I have inputted makes the stairs out of compliance with the code mandated 7.75" maximum riser height. Seems to me like changing the number of treads as well should work as long as it is within code requirements.
  8. CJSpud

    roof

    The type of return you want to make is a "hip" return. Select your gable wall and under the roof tab, make your return settings hip and you should get close to what your are trying to duplicate.
  9. Assumptions can get you in trouble sometimes. I have seen contractors in my area who don't do kickout flashing so you would "assume" that if you put it on the plans, that it would get built that way. I've put things on plans that do not get done that way, so you realistically you can't assume too much. As they say ... "the devil is in the details" ... !
  10. If you change to something like Steve's possible solution, I would recommend one or two details in your plans showing step flashing and a kickout flashing where the roof plane/gutter meets the (a) gable wall.
  11. Just placed a roof plane manually against the side of the gable wall and then manipulated the ends for a 45 miter. Make sure to match your fascia height with the adjoining roof planes. I agree with Chris .... your roof should drain just fine as designed.
  12. Everything I see are gable roofs. You have some "valleys" where gable roofs perpendicular to each other intersect (e.g., the red valley in your last image) but no hips anywhere. I call the roof style in your second picture a full return ... but it probably is called other things by other folks in different parts of the country or world. I don't really understand everything you were trying to say regarding issues or what you are trying to fix. So I just went into your plan and cleaned up some of the roof planes you didn't figure out yet, did some chimney work for you (added the 4th wall above the roof; added a chimney cap from the library; and added a cricket), put a roof on your porch and added a couple of full returns to a couple of gables. Another way to create that look is by using a dormer but I will let you research how to do that in chiefs videos, knowledge base and/or anywhere else they may have covered it. A zipped file of your plan is attached. Make sure you analyze some of the roof plane connections I fixed as they can be a little tricky when your starting out with Chief and doing things manually. I like to do as much automatically in building roofs. The easiest way to do that is to make sure the exterior wall roof settings are correct for each wall a roof plane will bear on. I didn't look at anything on the interior of your plan so if there are issues in there, I didn't look for them and honestly don't have time to do that today. Good luck ... hope what I've done is some help to you. 326375991_Dugan8D.zip
  13. Maybe you could try selecting the larger roof plane and move it to the front? Just a guess. You might look at fills and transparency as well.
  14. Mark: Indeed you did and thank you. It didn't register quite as strongly with me as Rob's actually suggesting what drawing order to use ... which is a feature I don't use as fully as I should. By the way, my youngest son is named Mark.
  15. Robert: Super idea ... why didn't I think of that ... before I did the trace-over? Next time. Thanks.
  16. Thanks for your responses. I like your idea of a trace over and then turn the ceiling plane layer off.
  17. When I use the tray ceiling tool, not only do I get a pink dashed line for the tray (stepped) ceiling I want in a room, but I also get a pink dashed line around the perimeter of the room my tray ceiling is built in. Is there any way to turn off the perimeter dashed line and just keep the actual tray ceiling as a dashed line or do I have to go back to doing a tray ceiling the old way? I really like the tray ceiling tool and the ease of use but I think the dashed room ceiling perimeter lines is a shortcoming of this feature - unless I am missing something somewhere that would allow me to turn this line off.
  18. Great information ... thank you everyone. I think those chimney braces are above my pay grade. Never would have considered that tool for that application.
  19. Thanks. That's what I'll do in the future.
  20. Eric: Thanks ... that works much better. Not sure why 3d moulding is messed up on the 3rd wall segment. I would think it would behave the same as the moulding PL. Any ideas why it doesn't?
  21. I started with a 3d moulding polyline because I initially tried putting the stone and the cap on the wall as a 2-part 3d moulding polyline. After running into issues with the stone not showing when cutting out for windows (and doors), I realized a different approach was needed. So then I just switched to using pony walls to get the stone on the bottoms of the walls and kept using the 3d moulding polyline for the cap. Perhaps that wasn't so wise a move. Will a moulding line behave properly? I will test that.
  22. Hi: I have been running into some unusual behavior when trying to place a 3D moulding across the front of a model. The front of the model has a jog in it. I want the 3D moulding to be placed on the two front walls as well as the jogged wall. I want the bottom of the moulding to be 36" above the floor 0 level and extruded to the outside. What I am running into is that the moulding is displaying correctly on the left (top) wall as well as on the jogged wall but for the right (top) wall, the moulding is at -36" elevation and is upside down with the outside facing inwards and the back side facing outwards. The way I drew the was I started it out away from the walls drawing from left to right, then down for the jog, then to the right again. All sections are connected as one 3D moulding polyline. The foundation hasn't been built so you can easily see how the problem segment has built. The moulding is a sloped profile for a cap over the stone. The plan is included as well as some images showing the problem. If anyone has any ideas what is going on and how to fix this issue, I would appreciate it. I wasn't able to get any satisfactory help from TS so, before sending it in, I thought I'd post it here first just in case others have run into this issue before. Thanks for looking into this. MoldingProblem_X12.plan
  23. I would design it that way initially - I am one of those people who likes square and simple. But the customer will get what they want regardless of how I put it on the plans initially. If a customer showed me an image or sketch of a railing done the way you are showing, then that is the way I would design it. In the end, the customer is right .... and you're right to be doing what they want. If you'd mentioned that this was the look your client was after in your initial post, I wouldn't have even bothered posting my image. The image I showed is particularly useful if the owner wants to have some space for some storage behind an attic wall, which would obviously be perpendicular to the bumpout walls I showed. Attic walls can also be useful for placing furniture against ... depending on the steepness of the roof and how the owner wants to arrange furniture. It might not make much since to have attic walls in a loft if the structure is quite narrow to begin with. Out of curiosity I did an Internet search for loft railing images and found many examples of railings like you are working on and there were many like what I showed. Lots of the images didn't show the complete railing so it wasn't obvious as to how they were connected to the roof structure on either end. Enough said ... hope your project design is a big success for your clients.