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About CJSpud

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    Kamiah, Idaho

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  1. CJSpud


    The type of return you want to make is a "hip" return. Select your gable wall and under the roof tab, make your return settings hip and you should get close to what your are trying to duplicate.
  2. Assumptions can get you in trouble sometimes. I have seen contractors in my area who don't do kickout flashing so you would "assume" that if you put it on the plans, that it would get built that way. I've put things on plans that do not get done that way, so you realistically you can't assume too much. As they say ... "the devil is in the details" ... !
  3. If you change to something like Steve's possible solution, I would recommend one or two details in your plans showing step flashing and a kickout flashing where the roof plane/gutter meets the (a) gable wall.
  4. Just placed a roof plane manually against the side of the gable wall and then manipulated the ends for a 45 miter. Make sure to match your fascia height with the adjoining roof planes. I agree with Chris .... your roof should drain just fine as designed.
  5. Everything I see are gable roofs. You have some "valleys" where gable roofs perpendicular to each other intersect (e.g., the red valley in your last image) but no hips anywhere. I call the roof style in your second picture a full return ... but it probably is called other things by other folks in different parts of the country or world. I don't really understand everything you were trying to say regarding issues or what you are trying to fix. So I just went into your plan and cleaned up some of the roof planes you didn't figure out yet, did some chimney work for you (added the 4th wall abo
  6. Maybe you could try selecting the larger roof plane and move it to the front? Just a guess. You might look at fills and transparency as well.
  7. Mark: Indeed you did and thank you. It didn't register quite as strongly with me as Rob's actually suggesting what drawing order to use ... which is a feature I don't use as fully as I should. By the way, my youngest son is named Mark.
  8. Robert: Super idea ... why didn't I think of that ... before I did the trace-over? Next time. Thanks.
  9. Thanks for your responses. I like your idea of a trace over and then turn the ceiling plane layer off.
  10. When I use the tray ceiling tool, not only do I get a pink dashed line for the tray (stepped) ceiling I want in a room, but I also get a pink dashed line around the perimeter of the room my tray ceiling is built in. Is there any way to turn off the perimeter dashed line and just keep the actual tray ceiling as a dashed line or do I have to go back to doing a tray ceiling the old way? I really like the tray ceiling tool and the ease of use but I think the dashed room ceiling perimeter lines is a shortcoming of this feature - unless I am missing something somewhere that would allow
  11. Great information ... thank you everyone. I think those chimney braces are above my pay grade. Never would have considered that tool for that application.
  12. Thanks. That's what I'll do in the future.
  13. Eric: Thanks ... that works much better. Not sure why 3d moulding is messed up on the 3rd wall segment. I would think it would behave the same as the moulding PL. Any ideas why it doesn't?
  14. I started with a 3d moulding polyline because I initially tried putting the stone and the cap on the wall as a 2-part 3d moulding polyline. After running into issues with the stone not showing when cutting out for windows (and doors), I realized a different approach was needed. So then I just switched to using pony walls to get the stone on the bottoms of the walls and kept using the 3d moulding polyline for the cap. Perhaps that wasn't so wise a move. Will a moulding line behave properly? I will test that.