joey_martin

I think Chief does the same thing. Make sure the deck footing layer isn't locked. I have found that when objects are on locked layers, the center function doesn't work.

In my opinion, if you aren't placing walls then you are asking for trouble. I do quite a few kitchens and would never try one without knowing how much room I have to work with. Hard to sell a 123" run of cabinets if there is only 119" from drywall to drywall.

Which is why I NEVER....EVER....use CAD from View for elevations. Everytime the client will ask to change something. Always use live camera views when completing elevations. But....Take another CAD from View shot, delete everything that doesn't need updated (not as bad as it sounds) and use the COPY and PASTE IN PLACE function on the version you have sent to layout. That should "paste" your update onto the elevation and you can then clean it up a bit.

I use layer sets and set the color of the pattern in the model.

Edit area, should move everything at once.

I had the HP110 for years, which I think was the predecessor to the HP120. I loved it! I did not have the roll feeder, simply feed sheets through the rear as needed and let them fall into the catcher. I gave it up when I moved the office home, and no one was requesting prints much anyway, just PDFs. I now have an Epson that will do 11x17 and it works great.

That is a pretty common design situation where basements are used in conjunction with stairs on a basement wall. Many times that offset is finished and trimmed out to produce a plant shelf, or as stated above, you can have a double wall, or furred wall running up the staircase. Whichever method you use, may also depend on if the staircase is enclosed and is visible, the design intent of the client/designer, or your personal aesthetic as a designer.

After it happened to me a couple of times I remembered to close Chief...so...maybe everytime for me.

I have found this to be true as well. Once you save a plan to Dropbox, Chief needs to be closed before that file will update. Had it happen a few times.

I am still using X8. Do you need the X8 files used or move them up? Shoot me an email and I'll have a peek. joeymdp@gmail.com

https://static.tti.tamu.edu/tti.tamu.edu/documents/4364-2.pdf

I hear great things about Arizona....hmmm......

I use Eric method so that sections and details will be a bit closer. Polysolids have their place...a chimney like this isn't one of them.

Glad I could help.

If you refuse to sell it along with a re-use fee, he will simply have his guy re-create it and you will be left with $0.00 (save all the copyright B.S. he would NEVER win that and if he did, to what cost) I have sold the rights to my plans many times to builders for that very reason. If I say no, they will find someone to say yes, and I get nothing. I am very upfront and honest with them. If my normal fee to purchase the design/plan is $1200, and I would charge say...$450 for derivatives..then I will want the original $1200, plus an additional $4500 for the 10 plus derivatives he will build over the course of time. If he balks at the $5600, I kindly...sometimes not so kindly because I am blunt as a spoon...remind him of how much money he is going to be making off my design.

You will need to create the porch and make it a gable roof, then lower the baseline by what ever that distance is between the two roof planes. Looks like 20"-24" between the two gutters.

You should be able to do that. Are you talking about the gable roof at the porch?

Select the wall and open the framing detail. Change the framing as needed to accommodate what you are after.

Look in the menu under BUILD and you will see some options for TRIM. You can take an elevation view and use the 3D molding poly line tool to create all the various moldings you are after.

One milllllion dollars....

Just to toss the question out there before your electrical contractor does...but...when Chief dimensions all those outlets, switches, etc...are you going back in and ensure all the framing members align with those dims? As an example, here is a plan I am working on that I placed some auto outlets in and then turned on the wall framing. There are multiple outlets that are between 2 studs. Sometimes too much information is just that, too much information.

I don't think I have manually framed a floor in years. Are you sure you aren't missing something in the process? By using the framing defaults, making sure your beam defaults are set up correctly, and using the framing direction tool with the bearing line you should not need to do much manual framing. Even if you do for some reason, simply leave the auto framing on in the beginning of the process and turn it off once all your sill plates are in place.

The wall part is easy, just a pony wall with a layer of insulation added. For the slab, set the thickness of the slab to 6" and when you detail, pull the fill up 2" and add the insulation fill as needed.

The clean-up is minimal and easy enough to deal with.

FWIW you can do this with a Anno/Layer set and not have to deal with CAD boxes. My Walls, Foundation layer are set to gray and dashed....done when I send it to layout.