joey_martin

After it happened to me a couple of times I remembered to close Chief...so...maybe everytime for me.

I have found this to be true as well. Once you save a plan to Dropbox, Chief needs to be closed before that file will update. Had it happen a few times.

I am still using X8. Do you need the X8 files used or move them up? Shoot me an email and I'll have a peek. joeymdp@gmail.com

https://static.tti.tamu.edu/tti.tamu.edu/documents/4364-2.pdf

I hear great things about Arizona....hmmm......

I use Eric method so that sections and details will be a bit closer. Polysolids have their place...a chimney like this isn't one of them.

Glad I could help.

If you refuse to sell it along with a re-use fee, he will simply have his guy re-create it and you will be left with $0.00 (save all the copyright B.S. he would NEVER win that and if he did, to what cost) I have sold the rights to my plans many times to builders for that very reason. If I say no, they will find someone to say yes, and I get nothing. I am very upfront and honest with them. If my normal fee to purchase the design/plan is $1200, and I would charge say...$450 for derivatives..then I will want the original $1200, plus an additional $4500 for the 10 plus derivatives he will build over the course of time. If he balks at the $5600, I kindly...sometimes not so kindly because I am blunt as a spoon...remind him of how much money he is going to be making off my design.

You will need to create the porch and make it a gable roof, then lower the baseline by what ever that distance is between the two roof planes. Looks like 20"-24" between the two gutters.

You should be able to do that. Are you talking about the gable roof at the porch?

Select the wall and open the framing detail. Change the framing as needed to accommodate what you are after.

Look in the menu under BUILD and you will see some options for TRIM. You can take an elevation view and use the 3D molding poly line tool to create all the various moldings you are after.

One milllllion dollars....

Just to toss the question out there before your electrical contractor does...but...when Chief dimensions all those outlets, switches, etc...are you going back in and ensure all the framing members align with those dims? As an example, here is a plan I am working on that I placed some auto outlets in and then turned on the wall framing. There are multiple outlets that are between 2 studs. Sometimes too much information is just that, too much information.

I don't think I have manually framed a floor in years. Are you sure you aren't missing something in the process? By using the framing defaults, making sure your beam defaults are set up correctly, and using the framing direction tool with the bearing line you should not need to do much manual framing. Even if you do for some reason, simply leave the auto framing on in the beginning of the process and turn it off once all your sill plates are in place.

The wall part is easy, just a pony wall with a layer of insulation added. For the slab, set the thickness of the slab to 6" and when you detail, pull the fill up 2" and add the insulation fill as needed.

The clean-up is minimal and easy enough to deal with.

FWIW you can do this with a Anno/Layer set and not have to deal with CAD boxes. My Walls, Foundation layer are set to gray and dashed....done when I send it to layout.

Open the window(s) and make sure the box is checked for those items to be included. Chief will not make a window egress or tempered based on size, you must check the boxes.

LA as in Los Angeles, or LA as in Louisiana?

I've done some fairly large scale projects. Not sure what you are asking. Just build the model, and take the camera views.

Not just hangers either. You can find most Simpson connectors in the 3D warehouse.

I download the hangers from the 3D warehouse. When you set up the framing defaults, make sure you uncheck BEAM BELOW JOISTS and the beams you draw will be flush with your joists. Not too complicated once you figure out how to let Chief do the work for you.

You need to pull the door down to the floor or raise the slab to the bottom of the door and it will fix itself.

If you have an opening in the wall, show the level that will allow the opening to still be visible. In other words..a pony wall of CMU on the bottom and 2x4 framing on the top, with a window in the framing (think daylight basement), I would show the framing part of the wall so that I can dimension the opening. I will put a dashed CAD line to show that there is a thicker wall below, note it, and can dimension to that CAD line if needed. If the different size wall thickness is linear, then I would simply place a break in the wall and choose to use the new wall type accordingly. Hope that helps.