joey_martin

https://www.dropbox.com/s/1ukbkp4oquic3qq/FreeGreen Detail Library Welcome Pack %26 PDF Library.pdf?dl=0

This may help. I think I have some LEED stuff as well, but the last time I worked with a builder in Kokomo, we found this program to be more cost friendly for residential projects. EDIT...the library item is a block that will fit onto a 24x36 layout page. Green.pdf NAHB Green.calibz

When you take a 3D overview of the room do you see them on that wall?

Unfortunately turning it off and adding a manual molding piece under there seems to be our only option.

Chief and Sketchup dont work that way. It may....M A Y ....be remotely possible, but not without a lot of work-arounds.

Check you mouse settings. As I am working this evening it happened twice, but I was in a hurry and clicked to move a shelf and the DBX popped up.

Preferences>Appearance

Set up the layers in the ceiling structure tab. Nothing to "invert", just set it correctly from the beginning. As for placement, take a measurement for the top of the wall it's setting on and match it to the bottom of the ceiling plane.

You need to manually place them, but I would leave the Auto Deck on until you are certain you are ready to place the piles. That way all the deck posts and beams will be in place and it's just a simple matter of deleting the concrete footings and replacing them. No need to know what your computer or software is, just a simple answer to a simple question.

Nevermind...found it in the roof dialog box.

As many of you know, I am far from a newbie, but I need to know if something has changed in X11 (which I am diving into finally) for this situation. Simple bonus room above above a garage that will be framed, not trusses. Notice on my pan view that the ceiling break lines don't show, and the drywall is missing. I have done a million of these and never had an issue...did something change?

Are you talking about roof soffits or the soffit tool...which doesn't frame as stated above.

You can use EDIT ALL FLOORS to complete the process a little easier. For instance, if you want to take a 36" section out of the middle... 1 - draw a 36" rectangle and drag it through the area to slice out 2 - select the edit all floors tool and use it to delete everything in that rectangle 3 - now, use the same tool to select everything on one side of the now cut in two plan and using point to point move, drag the areas together. If you have used everything right the roof and foundation, as well as the floor plan should be ready to fine tune.

I have 2 projects that are wrapping up this week, will have room in my schedule for new projects. - Homeowners looking to have their ideas worked into plans - Chiefers that need some overflow help - New clients you don't have time in your schedule for Send them my way.

I do a lot of walk outs. I show the upper portion of the wall and use a CAD line as the lower portion. This is the plan view... This is the foundation view...

I was in Newport last month for a week...sadly...I'm now back in Indiana. Do you need someone local or can I help you remotely?

I do them all the time. You may have to move the plants/trees around, but it's pretty easy to get a great "sketch"

Then you cut a hole in the ceiling plane and add a flat ceiling plane at the height you want.

Because it's in the attic and not on a new floor. It's a tricky thing to do. Check all the walls for room definition, especially the outside gable wall (which I always forget). You may end up needing to add a second floor, checking the box for the roof to ignore the upper floor, and then you will able to assign that bonus room.

When you flip a plan..ie...edit area or copy/paste in place....anyway. The walls that end up butting into one another will join as one wall. You will most likely need to break those interior walls so that you can adjust the new ends to butt where you want them to.

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85% of my work is basement....Floor 0 is for the basement. Use Layer/Anno Sets to control what is visible between the 2 different plans.

Shane the foundation you should be able to do if Auto foundations are set up. Once you have a basic 4 walls set up simply open the defaults and set them. As for the upper floors, those you set at the time the floor is created.

Indiana... The maximum riser height is 7 ¾ inches; all risers must be within 3/8” of each other. The minimum tread depth is 10 inches, with a 1-inch nosing. A nosing is not required where the tread depth is 11 inches. All treads must be within 3/8” of each other.

Use the EDIT LAYOUT tool and hold down the SHIFT key while selecting the area of the first floor. When selected, open the DBX and change the line weights, and also I make the color a gray scale so that it looks even more faded allowing the thicker, upper floor to stand out even more.