GeneDavis

I'd like someone to do a video of what Joey did. He has a backclipped section of a "bump" on a house, the house in light gray beyond the section cut of the bump, and it was done without masking. The section cut is in heavier lineweight and black. And Joey says it is not a CAD detail from the view.

I'd like to know the method, also. Sure seems as if at some point, the view has to be converted to all CAD. I cannot get line selection any other way. An alternate way is to draw two plans, one of what you want to show in grey fog, the other the full remodel. Superimpose two views, one done with gray plot lines, the other in stark black.

Are you editing a CAD Detail From View, Joey?

How can you get precision placement in stacked views? Point to point won't work unless I'm doing it with dead views (not live), and I want the elevations to be live.

In a recent thread, Joey Martin showed a section view with the cut all done with heavier line weights, while back, the rest of the house is in fog. Not really in fog, but lesser line weights and less black more gray. He alluded to the technique being done using an annoset. We've had other threads about this or something like this used to do elevations. How do you go about achieving this?

Drawing dashed-line slabs works for me, and they get put on the same layer as other footings.

Been discussed before. Not easy. The positioning of the valley plates Is tough, and the seat cuts for the rafters bearing on the plates is tougher. Best to just do a 2D CAD detail. I do them in 3D using Sketchup.

Out of curiosity, who needs and uses the info portrayed thus? I'll do that for exterior walls and any interior walls that have special header details or blocking for timber work or in-wall posts with drops to point out. You can always do CAD details from wall framing detail views and point to point stitch it all together in layout.

Do a web search for "wall dormer" images and you'll see quite a few. I tried to auto build one but couldn't. Chief doesn't have a shed roof button for the lower end of a shed roof.

You want Chief to auto build it?

We've got a 34x34 corner with pie-hinged doors, a 32" susan inside, and it sure holds a lot of pots and pans.

I can see what's in the drawer just looking down through!

I see, Michael. The dimension settings control how the temps come through. I had never checked casings before now. I disregard them in doing asbuilts, and since my builders change casings based on theirs and client whims, I go with the same flat trim scheme always.

I'd train a newbie by taking him or her along for a measure, and explain every step of the measure as it progressed. The prep with tools and data gathering, the photos needed, the sketching, and all the ins and outs of the measure. It is a detailed process that follows a rigorous schedule. Next would be creating the asbuilt in Chief. The newbie sits and watched the whole thing unfold. As for drawing con docs, I would find a way to have my newbie spend time on a jobsite when the framer snaps a deck with all the wall lines and openings.

I understand that, Michael. I thought this whole discussion was about temporary dims, the ones we use for positioning everything when creating a plan. I don't see a setting that can do that.

But Rob wants his casing extents to set his opening positions from measurements, 'cause that's how he measures the as-built. How can setting do that?

Here is where this is going. Blind as the OP has shown us, and inside, voila! is this. https://rev-a-shelf.com/2553? I have done a lot of kitchens and occasionally suggested these, but never had anyone go for it once they saw the cost.

Do you like your temp dims to be picking up the casing extents?

The Chief bonus library has a decent collection of 2D plants, but it will take me a lot of editing to make them closed polylines and thus able to fill. Anybody got a collection of what I need?

A diagonal-front corner base cabinet at 39 x 39 size (where do you get a lazy susan that large?) will have a door width in the range of 19.5 inches, depending on reveal, frameless or no, etc. Why would you want a narrower door?

Scott Hall hosted an excellent session via GTM yesterday afternoon, the topic being Saved Plan Views. We had participants who had no SPV experience and needed to know what they are, exactly, then how to get started. We had at least one SPV power user. Some said that with SPV, that annotation sets are kaput, and will disappear in future. But we came to a different conclusion after discussion. Annosets are here to stay and are as powerful as ever, with the focus being on using them for all the other camera views beyond straight-down plan views. It would be great if Chief would do a series of videos showing all the uses of default sets to control the views for full-house elevations, sections, clipped sections, wall elevations, and more. Here, let's see if others can contribute in this thread, with some hints about their use. Joey Martin's use of default sets in doing elevations and sections would be a good subtopic here. One takeaway I had after yesterday's GTM was that now with X12 and the SPV functionality, it might be best to do a complete review of all the layersets and default sets I've built and saved, and maybe throw out 90 percent of it, restarting with Chief's OOB X12 and its panoply of SPVs, and rebuild from there.

Wow, Joey! The section cut with the beyond all in fog and the sections lines all crisp and black. How is that done with an anno set?

Show us the dialog box for the parts when selected. And same for a nearby that gets treated as expected. Notice how they differ in plan view from others. Copy one of the nearby joists that are labeled and edit to proper length.

Thanks, Scott! Informative session.

It varies by region, but in the northeast it is common to see 8 foot and 9 foot ceiling heights specified at 1-1/8" over for rough height, and the lumber yards stock precut studs for both these heights. Some markets also have precuts for 10 foot walls at the same "plus 1-1/8"" logic. So it is common for me, or had been until now, to do ceiling heights for walkout basements so as to use the same precut studs for wall framing. It turns out it can cause problems at build time, if using Chief material lists for framing, due to the inaccuracies of foundation wall building and floor slab pours. I use the material lists to provide resonably good takeoff info for builders, and I know the info gets used. I advise it's just a guide and to add for waste and errors and bracing, blocking, etc. For all the 2x4 and 2x6 material, I have the material list structural reporting (I generate the buy list) set up to count just the precut stud lengths, and 16 footers. That is it unless there is some (rare) balloon or tall wall framing happening that needs 18, 20, 22 or even 24 footers. A walkout project with a big footprint and beds baths and closets and more on floor zero can end up with hundreds of 2x6 and 2x4 precuts in the tally, if the walls are set to that precut wall height. And if the contractor buys to that list, the problem rears its ugly head when the wall height needs to be taller than specified, something that a less-than-precise foundation build can cause. It would be the pour from heaven if for a big walkout basement job, the framers could build all the wall frames using precuts, laying on the slab, then stand all up and have to top plates all nice and level, and level with that big perimeter of mudsill that has been bolted down on the concrete wall tops. What really happens is that string and levels and lasers come into play and every stud is cut to a mark, and the framing is all a bespoke suit. But you cannot stretch a stud. If the variance is plus, meaning the walls need to be taller, you either quickly call the yard and get 350 10/0 lengths and return the 350 precut 9s you have, or you extra-plate, usually at the wall bottoms. Then you need more 16s. So now I go to the nominal number 8/0, 9/0, or 10/0 for the ceiling heights on floor 0, let the material list still count the studs as precuts, and figure that if the pours are perfect, they are gonna whack 1-1/8" off all the studs. And I hope that the poor joe doesn't have a job that went 1-1/8" the other way. What have you been doing for floor 0 ceiling height?