GeneDavis

Look at the glass material in each, and I'll bet they are different.

I think you should go to your profile in the setup here, and compose a signature line that tells us a little about you and the software you are using, and also the system on which you run it. Imported CAD is just that. CAD lines, arcs, etc. Bringing it in makes it Chief CAD, which has no floor information per se. If you imported it in while operating on floor 1, that is where your CAD resides.

Thanks, Robert. Took to quick a look at the OP's detail.

It's gonna take some manual work to get that dropped slope bottom slab edge, right? P-line solids, get everything on right levels, white-out joint line in section view, yadda yadda yadda. Unless there's a trick I don't know.

I'm late to this party and too lazy this morning to try it out. Does the symbol get cut by a sink if sink installed?

If I want a custom schedule with rows, columns, and headers, I just draw CAD lines for the grid, and write my text using regular text (not rich) and then use point to point moves to place my cell contents. The text alignment tools work nicely for me. Nothing's automatic, but it seems quick and easy.

I just annotate it. I would not trust a contractor to know what a symbol ID meant, other than maybe GFCI, and DM. When specific types or brands are involved, I prefer a fixture schedule.

Have you tried setting the camera to a 35 degree f.o.v.? Might look more normal to you and less "fish-eye." Except that all the pro photographers doing interior shots for magazine and real estate are shooting using wide angle lenses. Seeing all those photos causes one's eye to "normalize" a wide angle view. We don't see things in wide angle. Our eyes give us a "normal" view close to what a 35 deg. FOV lens renders. But our eyes scan, and our brain links the scanning to give us panoramic views.

Zip the 3DS file including all the texture files. Upload the zipped package to Sketchfab. Seems to work for me.

You'll want a filler at the end where the door sits adjacent, to space the drawers away from the door casing.

Drop the whole ceiling. We live in a poorly designed tract-built place in which the entire main floor, every room no matter the size, has a 10' ceiling height. Good design uses variation in ceiling height. Only the largest rooms should have the high ceilings, in keeping with the scale. Powder rooms go to 7'. All hallways drop to 8', sometimes 7'. I don't confine myself to 12-inch increments. Our kitchen in this tract house has its 10' ceiling, and 36" wall cabinets, accented over the range microhood, the fridge box, and the wall oven stack with another 6" of height. Upper shelves in these cabs need a two-step stool to access the space. Not a good design, and silly storage. Try dropping the whole thing to 9', even 8', or 8'6".

Move the whole model up 100'. Edit: No, that won't work. Sorry. You can do this using structure, but it's best to begin early.

Are you talking about a Florida pool cover?

Why was tech support at Chief not saying the same thing?

I'm embarrassed to ask, but I must. In which release of Chief was the filler build added? I was always using partitions.

Cabinet is filler. Mark says "place filler manually," but in cabinets there is no filler, so you make a cabinet into a filler as he so well instructs. I've learned something and will forevermore quit fiddling with partitions when doing fillers. Thanks, Mark. You are the cab guru.

Knowing that the Pella mull joint piece is 1/2", whether side-mulled or stacked, I am careful to space my units 1/2" before ganging the cluster, and when that is done, my mulled unit sizes are right, and so are the rough openings.

A wall-mount light fixture symbol has two things preordained by Chief when placing it, that being its height above floor and that it snaps to the wall surface, at its x-y-z origin. You can adjust its height above floor in the dialog seen when opening its object specification, but to move it away from the wall (or into the wall if you wish) you open the SYMBOL dialog and reposition the origin along the y-axis. Try it out and see.

But won't the Joe Carrick idea of using an invisible wall and a pocket door for doing the barn slider work? That, and a few p'line solids to model up the track and wheels, and it's a wrap. Oh, and on the schedule, too.

My lumber yard does not stock 2 x 10 9/16" material for studs. They said they could special order them, but I would have to buy five carloads. My framing sub has asked that I stop specifying them, because his guys only have quarters and eighths on their tapes. They said those little six-teeny things all wore off.

Yeah, the way one can update a Sketchup model that's been uploaded to the 3D Warehouse. I'm in the same mode now, deleting models from my storage at Chief, uploading new ones.

IOW, can, for example, an owner forward one to someone else, and the someone else be able to view the model. Or does each person need to receive an email from me. Haven't tried, just wondering.

What is the benefit of one versus the other, for you. Or no color at all? I have always liked color to layout, then print to .pdf in color, and have the printer go to paper using grayscale. But then there's live versus plot lines and if plot lines one can add color. So many choices! I'm worn out.

Didn't open your plan, but did you mull the two?

If this is for the benefit of the building contractor and/or his framing contractor, why don't you want to show the whole frame, including the outside walls? I just tried this. Detail-frame your exterior walls, but use glass as the material, of the framing. Your perspective framing overview will give you the effect I think you want.