GeneDavis

I don't see the problem, and the house looks pretty much like everything built in the last fifteen years in the part of far northwest Chicagoland with which I've some familiarity. Gables galore facing the street. That previous one was a roof seriously in need of a cricket, but not this one.

I'm not locked into 1/4" = 1'0" as scale for floorplans and elevations in layouts, and sometimes go smaller (3/16") or larger (3/8"). I know there are some AHJs that insist on plans being at 1/4", and if so, I make it so. But whatever scale, I like my text and dimensions at 3/32" height, and that means a setting of 4.5 for 1/4". I use Chief Blueprint.

We need to hear from Skip D the OP, who asked for a billiard table, not a pool table. Billiard tables have no pockets. One or more of those shown at the 3D Warehouse site are true billiards tables, but the great majority have pockets. I've a friend who has an expensive billiard table and plays. Its slate top has electric heating elements to regulate its temperature to a tournament-level standard. He has a smartphone app to turn it on from wherever he is so it is ready to play when he gets there.

To place exterior walls, I take my notes or whatever reference docs and draw the entire perimeter of the building, trying for a pretty close replication of the planview shape of everything. This is the first step, and it is not the one where we are trying to get the walls all dead on. Configuration is everything, dimensions come after. When it is complete and closed, I pop on auto exterior dimensions. My dimensioning is to the "building line," i.e., the exterior of the framing layer. From there I just move walls using the dimensions to make the moves. I try for whole inches (no fractions) on all the longer principal walls, and never want to go to a fraction less than 1/4" everywhere else. The preference is to have the smallest fraction at 1/2". Without seeing a video of what Rocky is fighting and not understanding, I've nothing else to offer.

That will entail a lot of work. While Chief produces a detail view of every single truss type for a job, that is as far as it goes. No such thing exists for rafters, beams, headers, studs, or any other framing members. You will need to take a back-cut section view of every member you want to detail, then do a CAD detail from view of that, edit as needed, and then dimension and annotate as needed. Even before you begin, your framing will need to be gone over with a fine toothed comb to ensure it is all correct and in accord with how you intend to build. You will be using point-to-point dimensioning a lot when detailing the rafters. A quick look is attached. I just popped in some dims on a live section.

You need a live tutor. That, or you do a video of what you want to do. In Chief, you don't dimension walls so much as you POSITION them.

For your example shown in the photo, I would model it in Sketchup with all the details wanted, and import the SU file as a symbol. This, because I use SU a lot and find it easy and fast, likely faster for me than doing a sequence of landings.

The OP is using Chief 7. P'line solid is the best solution.

I'm kinda late to the party, but is this roof structure the kind in which 2x4 purlins lay atop the trusses on 24 or 32-inch centers, and the ribbed roofing fastens to the purlins? Because if there are to be purlins, and the OP needs how-to advice on their modeling, let's have a new thread for that. Reading all through this makes me wonder if the OP has yet realized the basics of how Chief builds roofs and trusses, and further, how Chief's tools are most efficiently used to model a conventional pole barn.

For absolute realism I would model the whole awning in Sketchup and import as symbol. These are typically made as an arrangement of light fabricated steel framing, heavy rods as corbels, small rectangular plate escutcheons where rods meet walls, and corrugated steel "turkey shed" roofing. The roofing is applied directly to the steel framing. For a reasonable approximation in Chief, model a roof with 7/8" roofing material thickness, make the material corrugated steel, do the structure as one layer of material, and no framing or soffit. Model rod supports as 3/4 dia. psolids and rotate as required for placement. Do 4x6x1/2 plates as psolids for the rod wall mounts.

FYI no sig info displays when viewing on iPhone.

If it's a one-floor basement upfit, just do the all-floors material list, and use only those quantities listed for floor 0. I am presuming you are using a full version of Chief, that you build a main level (level 1) plan, then generate a foundation under it as level 0, and finish that level 0 with your spaces and finishes. I don't know how the other Chief versions (interiors, etc.) work.

Might help to know what software you are trying to use, and what you are running it on. Find the way to show us using a customized signature. It's done in your account settings.

Cannot comment on code, but . . . The carpenters that put down that subfloor work atop the existing slab are going to need some beers after all the work they'll do to get the top surface of the ripped joists good and level. Unless that slab was poured to WalMart flatness specs (and has stayed that way for 63 years) they will do a lot of work to make things good. I would lean toward specifying a minimum 1/4" space between the resawn joists and the sleepers they bear upon. The crew can prepare some ripped 2x stock at various thicknesses to use when laying the joists in place. Toenailed spikes can go through all. As for good building practice, I'd specify pressure-treated materials for everything: joists, sleepers, and even plywood subfloor, and hot dipped galvanized fasteners.

Don't know about materials. I just downloaded a Bertazzoni range into a new Sketchup file, saved it as "Bertazzoni range," and imported it into a Chief file. I always do .skp imports this same way. File>import>import_3D_symbol, and then just go to the file folder and select it. No problems, but one may have to do a little materials management. You might want to edit your sig so we can see what Chief version you are using.

Access stairs to basement from service and mudroom level are a mess in this plan. If you've the time and are willing, show me how to clean them up. You'll note if examining the plan that I have a wall situation on the R of the stairs down to below, that I did as a stacked-on wall, and maybe that is the one causing the railing wall above to not generate as I want. The splits on the open-below rooms are to deal with two differing ceiling situations above, one framed flat, the other not there and framed by roof above. Sushko Mirror Lake Drive.plan

When the fireplace hearth is 12+ inches above finished floor, may the all-masonry hearth extension sit and bear on the woodframed floor? Proposed fireplace sits on its own foundation that goes to basement floor 9 feet below finished floor. If the hearth floor level was to be at finished floor level and not raised, we know we would need to build a cantilevered slab on the fireplace foundation for the hearth extension finish. But with it raised as proposed, does the code permit the extension to be built separate from the fireplace, adjoining the hearth closely, but built atop the floor?

Thanks to both of you. I restarted Windows, and the problem seems to have gone away. I opened Chief, and to be safe, dragged its bottom edge up out of rage of the Windows taskbar.

I can get it to go away but it comes back, and when on screen at my preferred location (across bottom), won't let me do dialog work.

Thanks, Glenn, but I have tried that. The current plan on which this is needed has a foundation in which only part of it has this. So I tried your method on a one-room building, and did not get the result you did. I have the foundation room supplying the floor for the room above, and the "slab at top of stem wall" option checked.

How does one make the slab extend over top of stem walls when doing a stemwall foundation, no basement, slab main floor? I cannot find a setting to make this happen in the model. Do I have to just do a CAD detail to show this? I know it defies energy considerations, but my client the builder always wants the stemwalls poured with tops at height equal to bottom of floor slab, then forms edges to outside of stemwalls, and pours slabs so they sit atop walls. Section pic attached that shows the 2" rigid foam insulation under slab, and outside wall and up slab edge. Framing sits atop.

Without the cats, energy framing specs would call for the Simpson DS drywall stop clip, which Simpson says to use at 16" spacing or less. We have had no drywall issues at all doing cats at 24" centers, and no DS clips.

When an interior wall tees into an exterior wall, Chief X10 frames it with three studs. The efficient way to frame these junctions is with ladder-rung cats at 24" centers, which uses a lot less lumber per tee, and permits better insulation in the exterior wall cavity. We do cats also at exterior corners. Do we have a framing option for this? If not, should we? I go through a job and edit the framing to be as close to the way we'll build as possible, and am weary of editing out the stud clusters and adding in the cats. Quick image here to show the cats method.

The thread got started with me hauling the laptop to the little 1885 library in the village, where there's Wifi. I've no web access here except for the smartphone, so I'll try this. It's new construction, property acquired. The owner owns other properties, and is not overly hands-on. No digging yet, but winter is coming, and a start is imminent. The room that's a gym with pool is the large one with the vaulted ceiling. That adjacent space is a half bath and sauna. I just didn't show the doors. The adjacent spaces in the house are the kitchen at front, dining toward rear. From the dining area one looks two ways through triple panel glass doors: out back in wooded yard, amd into gym/pool room. From garage, one enters a laundry room, then one proceeds through a closet area (this is in a winter sports town) and then into the mudroom area with its outside entry. Even though there will be a staircase down to the unfinished basement (storage and mechanicals only) the architect has been directed to provide a second basement access here in this area of everyday common usage.

Yes, of course it is the architect's job to solve this. He's not very creative, though. Does not work in 3D, uses an old version of ACAD to do condocs. I think there's a wealth of creative talent here and am hoping for a good lead. For more grins from this plan, look at the window in the staircase. I asked how that was supposed to work, got no reply.