GeneDavis

I've got piers elsewhere on the plan with no issue. They are under the deck at rear. They are on their own layer, and the ones under the front porch are on their own separate layer. Sayers.plan

Version 10. I created these on the first floor and now want them to show on the foundation level 0. Trying to cut and paste in place, I get this message. And no layers are locked.

I was in the door biz, and we shipped a lot of product to the SFB area. If their callout methods were different from everywhere else in the US, I would have known it. Excepting high end work, exterior entry doors in residential construction are not beveled on the lock edge, and are called out as RH or LH. Inswing is default, so outswing is called when needed. Interior doors typically get beveled edges and are called out as only RH or LH. It's when ordering locking hardware that's not reversible that one has to be paying particular attention to this, and this is when "reverse" comes into play, and only for interior doors.

You, your mouse, and Chief"s excellent framing edit tools.

Looks loke you are trying to copy a plan found on a website. Link us to the site, and maybe someone will show you how.

Two different fascia heights. The front gable arrangement is lowered from the main and the back ell.

If you've got 2x2 balusters face-nailed to those upright 2x4 rails and shoes, you might need to continue modeling for true 3D representation.

Pretty large opening headers for a gable end. If I was paying for the lumber I would have someone check it.

Free Sketchup is, well, free. Easy to download and install. You want to learn at least the basics of exploding models and editing materials before you go with it for Chief. Open up a new blank SU file using the application, and with the 3D Whse function, download whatever you want into your SU file. Examine it carefully for size, geometry, and if needed, explode things to be able to get at the materials for all the surfaces you want for have separate materials. Edit your materials the way you want them. Resize the model if needed using the tools available. I often just use the 3D scale tool to stretch or shrink. When done, save it and give it a name. Now you have a file on your drive you can import directly to Chief.

And be prepared to dimension and annotate them yourself.

I've built with ICF and am curious to know why one would want to see a 3D view of a such a structure this way. Who needs to view the concrete core as if the styrofoam forms were stripped away? And why?

Spend an hour with all the dialog boxes for railings. Check and uncheck, change fills in the display, newel sizes, balusters, everything. You'll learn a lot.

I think you had better edit your signature line. Click on your name upper right, go to settings, then create a signature script. It should include which version of Chief, and something about the system on which you run it. We cannot offer specific advice without knowing this.

Will the OP please enter the room and tell us if Michael's quick and easy solution (fillers) will be used? I love getting into the weeds of the builds, because I detail stuff like this for CNC fabrication, but I'm betting the need here is for simple representation, just as is shown in Michael's post, above.

Thanks for clearing that up for me, Michael. Works fine when done right, but one still needs to check the lazy susan option in the cabinet dialog to get the 2D display to show it. And yes, it puts the RevAShelf product inside in the correct position.

A 32" dia susan should go into a 36 x 36 corner. But it won't. Well, actually, it will if I force it and move it into the right position. But it should pop in as a sink does, nicely centered. And to rant further, a corner cab is built with fixed shelves, which stay there if you put a Rev a Shelf susan inside. And the susan gets placed on the floor, not on the bottom deck of the cabinet. So what good is this Rev a Shelf library, with something so basic as this not working? And

I use CAD on the foundation plans to do this, because I not only want them appropriately placed near corners, but placed so that butted ends of sills get bolts near their ends. Call me anal but the builder appreciates it. How would you specify things to get the program to do it?

Thanks, Mark. I wanted to do it because the spec for the kitchen is different from the rest of the house. It is probably not worth it and I'll just take care of the situation by annotations in the manufacturer and comments columns. .

How can this be done and still retain cabinet labels? I want the kitchen in one schedule and the baths and laundry in a second.

Nice topic and really nice barn. One of the coolest houses we almost ever bought was down in Boerne, TX in the hill country, and was done in the old Fredericksburg style, minimum roof overhangs, no hips, all gables, stucco, and all trimmed with bright spangle hot dipped galvanized steel, to complement the unpainted galvalume standing seam roofing. It had what looked like chimneys on the ridges, clad in the same material as eaves, but they were skylights. I've wanted those skylights on a house ever since.

Thanks, E. I had just done 3D molding polylines, using CAD in close-cropped sections to estimate heights needed at start and finish. Yours is better because tracking is precise. EXCEPT! I would like to get a clean line showing in 3D where the ceiling finish is intersected by the molding. And I can fix that by incrementally moving the molding down until a line shows

Thanks, E. I had just done 3D molding polylines, using CAD in close-cropped sections to estimate heights needed at start and finish. Yours is better because tracking is precise. EXCEPT! I would like to get a clean line showing in 3D where the ceiling finish is intersected by the molding. Here's what I found when trying to work with the 3D molding. One can set it with specification, but one cannot then use a move tool to tweak its height in 3D space.

I've got cathedral ceiling and the 2x8 rafters hang from hips and valleys that are paired 2x10s. With the hip and valley members protruding through the ceiling finish, I want to wrap them in painted 3/4" boards. Molding polylines work readily when the beams are horizontal, but what about this condition?

Grego's in Austin, where it seems to me, pitches on new roofs are either pretty low, like a prairie style, or steep, as in what some might call French or country French.

Saltbox style? Really?