GeneDavis

A walkout basement has its floor 0 walls done as pony walls, 2x6 framing upper half, 8" concrete stemwall lower half, aligned both at main layer out. The window I place in the upper wall has its frame of depth for the stemwall, and of course the trim is positioned such. How to fix?

Nope. Worked for floor 0, but not for floor 1. My default for floor 1 is 9' and I made it all 10' before placing interior walls. So floor 1 the default is where I want to go, but all the rooms are non-default and specified at 10'.

I want to leave the roof right where it is, but I have a plan with 10' plate heights common everwhere, main floor and basement. This one is in an HOA neigborhood with a height limit. I want to keep absolute highest ridge where it is, and basement floor elevation absolute also. I will edit the roof after. How to do and sequence, please.

Look at the product. How would it even work unless placed along a ridge? The manufacturer shows no variants of it for use at the upper edge of a shed (a.k.a. skillion) roof.

Since it sits on the ridge, half is on one roof plane, half on the other. Not sure how a "sits on roof" symbol can work for you, for an item sharing planes. Ten minutes with Sketchup and it's done, but then you need to import, place, and edit its position. Not much work at all.

Start with telling us what software you are using. And note how almost all of us here do it using the signature feature in our profiles.

I didn't do a room divider between. I just made one of the walls "no room division." And presumed that all the OP wants is the 3D look.

Use the signature feature in your profile to tell us what software you use, and the system on which it is run. Otherwise, you won't get much help here.

Don't do it that way, please. Just post the pic. No one wants the download.

That's what I do, but I'm not so concerned with the 3D.

Yes, for sure, brick finish and count stairs twice will skew the numbers.

"Our appraisers calculate square footage based on exterior dimensions, so the living area square footage that shows below each plan is significantly less than the total square footage." Significantly less? You must live in the land of significantly thicker wall finishes. An extra inch of perimeter thickness outside the framing (sheathing and fibercement siding) on a typical 2400 sf ranch house adds less than 18 sf to the area. So 2400 Chief versus 2418 your appraisers. Am I missing something?

For those reading this, one can get a complete materials list for a wall by selecting the wall using the Material List Polyline tool. It's all there when you do it this way. And it is explained in HELP. I had not read the details.

I've a wall for which framing is built, but when I do the material list for just that selected wall, it does not do framing. Actually, it doesn't do many other items. So what's up with this?

Tried "build ceiling framing," and nothing. Tried that tool, but there is no child tool for ceiling rafters.

This job got permitted last fall and only got its footings done before winter closed it down. The builder needs to change the entry porch ceiling from flat to have a center section not trayed but cathedral with under-ridge. See the Sketchup views attached. Ceiling framing in red, roof framing in beige, and the ridge member is a one-ply girder truss from which to hang the stick rafters. Front end's a "jerkinhead" half-hip. I modeled the Chief build by specifying no ceiling above the porch room, then placing ceiling planes as needed. See the view of the porch in Chief in the screencap attached. I include the plan view of the framing with the ceiling planes selected, center two pitched up at 7:12, the flankers are level. I seem unable to create the 2x4 ceiling rafters, for the cathedral main center section. Am I gonna have to do this all in solids and put them on the framing layer?

Thanks, I get it now, too. Had to learn what "assemble" means.

I have not figured a workaround for this, other to piece in (edit all the wall framing) the plates the way they will likely be done. Open up the wall framing detail for your 26' wall, see where the 16-foot stock lengths get cut to land on stud centers, and edit accordingly. Why bother? Ideally, since Chief won't do this for you, in the same material list, one could get only the plates to list out as total lineal feet, then divide by 16 or whatever, and add up for cut scrap. For now, one takes one look at materials doing framing all as total lineal feet, then a second using the buy list and structural member reporting.

I want to change the ceiling in an entry porch from all flat same height, to have a central section raised with a tray rim around. I've a mix of stick and truss framing above for the roof. Is it going to be better to divide the space with room divider walls so as to raise up the central section, then do pitched ceiling planes for the four sides of the tray, or should I just not do room division, and build all ceilings with planes.

My pref is for a diag front for this one.

You can relabel any elevation. Or you can rethink your layout scheme if you are doing shotgun houses. No one says a plan page cannot be done in portrait mode.

See attached. Uncheck recessed, for doors and windows. Oh, and enhance your profile with a signature line that tells us about what you are using, software and hardware. See mine for an example.

He needs the top plate, actually sort of a mudsill, to be a tripled PT 2x6, and inset from framing line. And only transverse to the joists. There's none where joists are parallel to wall. Here's a sloppy workup of what's going on. I made the foundation wall as brick>airgap>block, all as main layer and it's a pony wall with brick>airgap>airgap, the top section inner airgap same 5-5/8" thickness as the block below. Top of lower wall is set at a height appropriate for the tripled 2x6 floor beam to bear directly on the block. The foundation wall has a zero mudsill. The floor beam is manually done. I am no framing wizard, or at least not at the level to know how to make it autoframe and be properly placed. I did not diddle the block texture, nor did I do the framing as other than my default 12" I-joist. I only did a pair of wall breaks to emulate a single pier at block length of 15-5/8, but you can get the idea by seeing the image of what to do.

Hi, Nancy. It helps if we know you are using the same software as us. Is it Chief Premiere X11? You have posted before, so maybe it is time to put your details in your signature. Use the profile. See mine as an example.

Try creating wall types you'll need. They are all foundation walls and have a footing. Between piers, the wall is the single-wythe brick. Offset the footing appropriately. At pier type 1 (CMU parallel to wall) the wall has layers of brick, air, and CMU. It's a pony wall, and it's upper makeup is brick only. The break between upper and lower is where your beam bears on the CMU piers. Pier type 2 wall is like 1 but for when the CMU stack is rotated and 90 to the wall. i'm just spitballin' this into my phone out here in the dark next to the pool, but I think it might work. Use CAD lines to define your pier ends, and that's where the wall breaks go.