GeneDavis

Thanks for clearing that up for me, Michael. Works fine when done right, but one still needs to check the lazy susan option in the cabinet dialog to get the 2D display to show it. And yes, it puts the RevAShelf product inside in the correct position.

A 32" dia susan should go into a 36 x 36 corner. But it won't. Well, actually, it will if I force it and move it into the right position. But it should pop in as a sink does, nicely centered. And to rant further, a corner cab is built with fixed shelves, which stay there if you put a Rev a Shelf susan inside. And the susan gets placed on the floor, not on the bottom deck of the cabinet. So what good is this Rev a Shelf library, with something so basic as this not working? And

I use CAD on the foundation plans to do this, because I not only want them appropriately placed near corners, but placed so that butted ends of sills get bolts near their ends. Call me anal but the builder appreciates it. How would you specify things to get the program to do it?

Thanks, Mark. I wanted to do it because the spec for the kitchen is different from the rest of the house. It is probably not worth it and I'll just take care of the situation by annotations in the manufacturer and comments columns. .

How can this be done and still retain cabinet labels? I want the kitchen in one schedule and the baths and laundry in a second.

Nice topic and really nice barn. One of the coolest houses we almost ever bought was down in Boerne, TX in the hill country, and was done in the old Fredericksburg style, minimum roof overhangs, no hips, all gables, stucco, and all trimmed with bright spangle hot dipped galvanized steel, to complement the unpainted galvalume standing seam roofing. It had what looked like chimneys on the ridges, clad in the same material as eaves, but they were skylights. I've wanted those skylights on a house ever since.

Thanks, E. I had just done 3D molding polylines, using CAD in close-cropped sections to estimate heights needed at start and finish. Yours is better because tracking is precise. EXCEPT! I would like to get a clean line showing in 3D where the ceiling finish is intersected by the molding. And I can fix that by incrementally moving the molding down until a line shows

Thanks, E. I had just done 3D molding polylines, using CAD in close-cropped sections to estimate heights needed at start and finish. Yours is better because tracking is precise. EXCEPT! I would like to get a clean line showing in 3D where the ceiling finish is intersected by the molding. Here's what I found when trying to work with the 3D molding. One can set it with specification, but one cannot then use a move tool to tweak its height in 3D space.

I've got cathedral ceiling and the 2x8 rafters hang from hips and valleys that are paired 2x10s. With the hip and valley members protruding through the ceiling finish, I want to wrap them in painted 3/4" boards. Molding polylines work readily when the beams are horizontal, but what about this condition?

Grego's in Austin, where it seems to me, pitches on new roofs are either pretty low, like a prairie style, or steep, as in what some might call French or country French.

Saltbox style? Really?

eCabinets does not integrate with Chief. Here is what it does. The user creates a "seed" cabinet in each and every type needed for work, and the seeds are all placed in a library file in eCabs. A seed is not a generic cabinet, but a specific model with features. Seeds are used to batch up a job file. Examples of seeds follow. Base cabinet, one drawer over a L/R double door Base cabinet, corner with diagonal door, lazy susan inside Wall cabinet 33 tall, single LH door Seeds are built using eCabs to a size, but are then resized as required when a job batch is built. The user has total freedom in building seeds to use just about any type of cabinet construction wanted. Choose materials, thicknesses, joinery, stretcher arrangement, drawerbox type, hardware, and more. The eCabinets focus is on CNC-cut parts, but the software can produce cutting sheets for shops operating saws. In addition to the cutting sheets, eCabinets provides buy lists for hardware, drawerfronts and doors, and drawerboxes. It takes me a minute or two per line item of a Chief cabinet schedule, to enter it to a batch and perform any necessary editing. If no editing, and I am only sizing, which is the more typical condition, it only takes seconds.

Our constraint is due to the frameless design and the fact we're cutting with CNC. And as I said, even cutting at a panel width of 49 not 48 (49 x 97 being a common panel size) we end up with the 23 and a fraction. I've worked in this cabinetry part of the business, designing and building installations, for quite a bit, and we've used a half dozen different hardware systems. The drawer slides from Blum, Grass, Hettich, Knape & Vogt, and likely others, the ones that go into a nominal 24-depth basecab, are all in the 21 and a fraction length, and any of them will work in the 23.375 boxes I've got for the latest project. Drawerbox lengths are always right around 21 or exactly 21. So for the basecabs, I'm happy to be doing it efficiently. Wall cabinets are a different story. A depth of 13.5 inches is what works nicely for the oversized dishes many people have, and the nesting works out OK when cutting from panel. Sides, decks, tops, and shelves nest three across, and there are always nailers and stretchers to be cut that pop into the space that's left. Built-in appliances like oven stacks typically get a cab depth near 26 inches so countertops resolve into them without protruding, and fridge boxes for SubZero-class units go the same. If you have to suffer some sheet stock loss due to those, it really doesn't matter. Those are going into a 32-sheet kitchen where money is hardly an object.

Design with Chief, use eCabinets for the shop. It's what I do.

Michael's method is good but results in adding another riser to the total between-floors run of the staircase. The reason I have had to split a landing is to save space or lower the bottom run for headroom reasons. Do the sequence as Michael shows, but then shorten the upper flight by one tread. Now you'll have the pitch the same for both flights. The split landing can be anywhere along the total stair run. One can go two steps down to landing 1, then maybe 11 steps down from landing 2 to the floor below. Arrange it all to suit your spaces.

This isn't a Chief question. It is about practice and convention, and I am just wondering what others do. Chief lets the user set whatever cabinet depth one wants. The out of box defaults are 24" for base cabinets and tall ones, and 12" for wall cabinets. I work with a builder that outsources cabinets, prefers frameless unless his arm is twisted, and the carcase parts are always done at a shop with a CNC router. Yield is terrible if cabinet depth is 24". Yield is excellent when it is dialed down to 23-3/8". Even a sixteenth more in depth above 23-3/8" blows the yield. It's all about panel size, bit size, something called collar size, but it is what it is. You want a base cabinet side such that you can nest two across a 49 inch sheet. Frameless or faceframed, base cabs with overlay doors come it at a total depth around 24-1/4", the buildup including doors at 13/16" and bumpers, which means a stock countertop with depth of 25" has a nice 3/4" overhang. The inside depth of a 23-3/8" base cab, built the way we do the backs and nailers, is 22-1/4", which permits nice clearance for the two types of Blum slides we use. Sink cutouts work OK, and we've experienced no issues with built-in appliances, which mount to the applied frames out front. Tweaking the depth in a kitchen layout is pretty meaningless unless you are dealing with a U-shaped end, and even then it just affects filler widths. So, what do you do?

You really should take the time to watch some videos that layout work. If you have put in the time and effort needed to build an accurate model of what is to be built in Chief, you should know that nothing comes "automatically." And neither do the construction drawings. But just as Chief can quickly produce a 3D model of a house, it can quickly produce the 2D floor plans and inside and outside elevations that are the core of a set of prints for building. Chief tools will place scale images of plans and elevations on the drawing pages. There is no redrawing needed. Dimensions, notes, callouts, and all the rest of the annotations needed are done by you the user, using Chief's excellent tools.

We engineers call these counterforts.

Thanks, Mark!

I don't do this enough to know the tricks, and this is the first kitchen for me in X10. Will someone please walk me through symbol resizing of the basic 24" dishwasher that is in the library?

Yes on the native resolution. Turns out that the latest Win10 updates are not addressing video card drivers. I had to find and install the driver update myself, and now all is well.

My Asus gaming laptop has a screen 15 inches across and 17.25 inches on the diagonal. Both Chief and Sketchup now look fuzzy when running. I can get by, but it looks like I've stepped back a dozen years in computer technology. In display settings, I am set to 1920 x 1080 resolution. Any hints for a fix?

Museums have this sort of thing, a space you enter inside a room, the space emulating the inside of a submarine, or space shuttle, or airliner. The specialists that do this are display builder contractors and I'll bet their work begins in a built space with vertical planar walls and planar ceilings. It might be worth it for you and your client's builder to have a discussion with a couple display builders to see how they would address this room finish.

Windows 10 was insisting I do an update and so I did. Now when I go to use CA10, I have the Win 10 toolbar across the bottom and cannot see the dialogs I need. Anybody know how to defeat the Windows 10 bar? Ignore this. Sorry. I worked it out.

I've got Skype onboard because it came with Windows 10. Can it be used to give a client a walkthrough? Must one use a webcam? All I want to do is have the client see the screen, not me.