justmejerry

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Everything posted by justmejerry

  1. Try this https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/719/one-and-a-half-story-roofs.html?playlist=95
  2. Michael, if you create a wall with no locate or room definition that is 5 1/2 inches you can centre it over the cmu walls. Put door in those walls and an opening in the cmu wall. If you pull no locate walls towards camera in section view you can adjust height to be no more than opening height so sections don't get lots of extra lines. I also made adjustment to casing depth at -5 1/2". You would need to place door stops manually as well. Alaskan Son has a video for ceiling grids I believe. If you search the forum it should come up. 1615EX - Copy REVISED.plan
  3. If you set your framing default for joists as 4x10 and your beam default as 4x10 it should work fine. You would not want both to be part of the floor structure as it would place them in same direction. Place your lower beams manually and use floor framing defaults for what would be the joist with T&G on them.
  4. I believe if you align your attic wall over railing wall at the steps it will come forward to where the beam is and solve that. Just a guess without the plan.
  5. If you are sending as live view this is typical as a way to keep program going faster. They will print fine though. If you would like it to look crisp the send in plot lines, however you will need to update views manually.
  6. Gene turn off shadows and see if it helps. I've had that happen to me on one symbol heavy plan as well and it stopped it.
  7. Try selecting from project browser. Then you can edit active camera to show.
  8. It will show what is beyond the section unless you have backclip selected. Can you post the plan? It shouldn't show more than what is visible as it sounds like your issue is.
  9. You can break the cross section line in plan view to suit your needs.
  10. Open the room dbx and in structure check everything to default and set auto roof on and it will fix the roof to match rest of house then. It may have lowered if you set deck height lower.
  11. Sherry, there is a way to show it reverse in elevation. Not the way it should be as you pointed out, with the reflect about but a workaround. You will need to put doors on new layer...one for plan view one for elevations. If you reverse swing it will show the way you want in elevation but will also show door hatch outside of garage in plan. You need to overlay one set for plan and one for elevation to have it all work.
  12. Not sure if it will make a difference for you, but is the roof and fascia supposed to extend that far down? Right now it is lower than your front door. If you post plan and even your layout it might be easier to solve. Just make sure the are not open in Chief when you try and upload them.
  13. Perhaps send to layout and post the pdf to give us an idea.
  14. I agree with Kevin. One wall thickness and add material regions maybe some p-solids, If that building were here in my city we would be turning it into industrial/commercial condos or residential condos. I personally would go for residential...especially the storage bins. They would make interesting living space.
  15. By the sounds of your description you have tapered walls Clemsongrad. If this is the case you would probably model using roof or p solids/solids and use solid subtraction etc. Do you have a picture of the building to give us a hint?
  16. I would use a floor material region. Not sure if it would work on just a slab so you may need to have invisible walls to create room.
  17. SDSINC, try reversing the layers on your deck walls. I used same wall type and have no problem with it drawing outside line of deck. If I reverse layers, I also see lines like you have in corners.
  18. Someone shared this at some point, looks very similar to what your looking for. Awning.calibz
  19. This may give some idea of what to use if you want to use something other than nominal lumber. Each manufacturer has their own span tables but I would recommend an engineer go over the plan. TJ-9000.pdf
  20. Your header will be dependant on the width of opening/door/window and the span of the floor/roof it supports. LVL is the way to go to get most strength for least depth.
  21. Here in Canada where I am everything has to have at least frost walls but 99.9% have full basements. Whether they are walk-out(daylight) or not always draw it on floor/level 0. I could see where there may be advantages to doing it on floor/level 1 as Scott has pointed out in some of his videos. If it is simple, just a house and no other buildings on a mostly flat lot, then floor/level 0 should work fine.
  22. If I were doing this I would create two material layers in your wall on the exterior with "opening no material" to at least show layers of cladding in plan view. You could do it the way you did with p solids or if you want something on the material list then use general framing member and adjust height width etc and use multiple copy.
  23. I am pretty sure it is going to require manual dimensions. I personally don't need to dimension trusses as that is all done at truss manufacturer's.
  24. Try playing with the wall intersection check boxes in the structure tab of the wall when you open it.